Air-Craft

Good read on an awesome aircraft - thanks for posting!

Another thing to be conscious about is what you are wearing when painting - woolly / fibrous clothing, particularly tops / jumpers can retain quite a bit of dust'n'stuff that will see your model & jump on it, so try to avoid these. You don't have to go to the length of a Tyvek suit, but it's worth knowing.

Try to avoid draughty or "high traffic" areas for spraying & just prior to starting to paint give the room / area a quick misting of water from a trigger spray bottle (into the air as you would with an air freshener). As the spray drops down though the air, it will capture quite a bit of the dust that's naturally floating about. When you've finished painting, place a "lid" like a Tupperware container or the likes over you work to avoid further contamination when drying.

Have OKI not been marketing white toner printers for some time now (4>5 years)?

A slightly better copy of the image (no further info from the site it came from though);

That sounds a pretty reasonable price to be honest - paint chips have never been cheap.

Excellent & very much appreciated!

This can happen if the nozzle isn't fully screwed into it's seal (don't over tighten though!!)as the conical nozzle will protrude too far into the nozzle cap, narrowing the air outlet. Or as has been suggested, if the wrong nozzle has been supplied. The Neo CN's nozzle part number is 0801 - if the 0.5mm nozzle (0802) has been supplied it will virtually fill the nozzle cap orifice & consequently partially or completely block the airflow....

Bill, It's pretty hard to say if the leakage is of any real concern - as said it's common for freshly filled units to expel some oil until the optimum level is found, after which is should become negligible / non existent, if cylinder wear / scoring are the cause however, the leakage will continue.... Generally speaking oil level at just below the centre of the sight bubble is ideal. The thermal switch should be sitting against the motor casing without an air gap. The regulator in the image looks like a standard bleed regulator & turning the knob should only open / close the bleed port

The thermal protection switch doesn't adhere to the duty cycle & is there to prevent motor from cooking rather than being a normal part of the compressors operation & I imagine that the compressor would easily pass the duty cycle before the thermal protection switch would cut the motor out. I've never seen the manual for the non-auto models, but imagine that it may have more clearly stated instructions regards 15on/15off. If you still have doubts on the thermal protection switch, its located inside the connector box at the rear of the motor casing / sump. I think models of this vintag

99.9% certain that its a rebranded Sil-Air compressor, its an older model but is very similar to the current Sil-Air 15 Export. Any manual for the Sil-Air 15 Export from that era (20 years ago plus), or any of the similar rebranded units like Aztek, Rotring or Revell should be fine. Regards oil in the output, if the unit has recently been serviced / refilled, it's common for oil to be pumped through the compressor until the oil reaches the idea level in the motor housing, after which the problem should become minimal / non existent. Unfortunately if the head has become worn or the bore scored

Mr Hobby Aqueous - similar in usage / quality to Tamiya, but a far wider colour coverage.

I've got a Mr Airbrush Custom 0.18 as pictured above by G_Marcat_Italy, design & quality are typical of Japanese airbrush products, so it's a pretty good airbrush. I don't believe that the GSI Custom 0.18 uses the matched head "system" of the CM's though.

^ What he said.

I'm not sure if this is specifically for filling or painting, but for painting I've has some success using quick drying flat acrylics like Tamiya XF-2 through an airbrush (double action); Trigger for air, start spraying a low / small volume of paint & work around the area until it starts to become wet, then back off the paint but keep the air flowing, moving around to surface dry the wet paint, the wet paint will surface dry pretty quickly with the air flow & you can start triggering paint again. It takes a little bit of patience & some finger control, but allows the job to get do

That looks like an adaptor for an Iwata airbrush, which is 1/8" BSP-P. As the G3 is 1/4 you will also require a 1/4"BSP-P female to 1/8" BSP-P male fitting.

Only "a" part? - I would give several..... The Tu-160 is undoubtedly the epitome of the large bomber. Back in the day the patchwork silver development aircraft would often be used at air shows - apparently their light weight due to reduced fit, multitude of high lift devices & installed power made for some unforgettable displays.

I would try a combination of increasing thinner, reducing distance & reducing pressure - It looks like the paint is drying before hitting the surface & leaving a roughcast effect.

Very sad indeed - RIP

Various news reports that Vlad has employed Tu-160's, Tu-95MS's & Tu-22M3's in a long range attack on ISIS targets in Syria - 5 Tu-160, 5 Tu-95MS, 14 Tu-22M3 & Su-27 escort; http://theaviationist.com/2015/11/17/russian-mod-video-shows-tu-160-tu-95-and-tu-22-bombers-with-su-27-escort-bomb-isis-in-syria/ https://www.rt.com/news/322455-russia-strategic-bombers-syria/

Although an aircraft fanatic, I'm also a car fan & obviously get far more opportunity to study & admire or be repulsed by these. As I understand it automotive designers generally have their art pretty much nailed down at a basic level & there are numerous ratios of X size against Y size that will simply make or break a car almost universally, although this doesn't stop some designs getting through that don't fit the bill due to someone trying to be clever or down to the realities of the real world taking over & determining the finished product. I believe that it's fundamental

I'm afraid not Rob... Solvent proof seals are typically PTFE, which is generally pretty stiff in comparison to the rubbers used for other seals, so it's not as flexible or accommodating as rubber. Add to this that it appears (for airbrushes anyway) PTFE seals are die cut from sheet & have square edges. A look through the numerous boxes of tricks doesn't find anything quite large enough to replace the Eclipse 6051 seal..... If the seal does come into contact with solvents, generally speaking if allow it to dry thoroughly (let the solvent evaporate fully from it) you should be able to reus

Like most airbrushes the Eclipse has solvent proof seals in the paint path, but not elsewhere - flushing with strong solvent is fine, but take care with everything else as nitrile & Viton seals (like the one on the head cap) will swell & eventually deteriorate in solvent.

That's section 41 which is made by Spirit AeroSystems in Wichita, it's also section that caused some difficulty when being mated with the rest of the fuselage. Looks like it's been used for testing or possibly dropped & dragged during "recovery"?

The Neo TRN1/2 are pretty decent, well made airbrushes & reasonably well priced in comparison to the Iwata Revolution TR series (sorry, cant comment on Grex). The Neo TRN1 uses a similar nozzle to the Neo CN/BCN models, so it's delicate, needs treated with respect & shares the same o-ring nozzle seal arrangement which can be a weak point. The TRN2 however uses a far larger & more robust screw in nozzle (more like an H&S or Iwata Eclipse nozzle in size) that seals on the threads like a regular Iwata nozzle. If you can deal with the side feed & larger nozzle of the TRN2 (0.5m