Air-Craft

The area is described in the NATS aerodrome map as No.1 Maintenance area & a bit of digging around suggests that it's a B.A. cleaning facility. Is it just me or does the outline on the deck not look like that of Concorde - sharply tapered leading edge & flat trailing edge with no tail? Considering the proximity to the engine test stand, is it possible that Concorde, having afterburning turbojets rather than turbofans & being "enclosed" in a test bay ends up dirtier than you average passenger jet after engine testing & requires a good clean in the closest bay? Edit:- The 1999

Spray guns (not as in pistol grip, trigger action airbrushes) are fine for larger areas, but generally lay down far too much paint for scale modelling, even compact touch up guns lay down a fair amount of paint in comparison to an airbrush. The majority of spray guns are fan pattern & their air consumption is high in comparison to an airbrush, most smaller airbrush compressors not being able to provide enough air flow for proper operation.

Used to prime, but now generally don't & as long as everything is cleaned / wiped down properly before painting I can't say that I've had a problem with adhesion. There is the odd exception when a bad combination of plastic colour & paint with poor hide are going together, but that's it.

6/10 as well......

Never really was a console guy, all PC..... The Unreal series of games where what really got me, Unreal Tournament probably being the best - it came along just as line speeds were becoming usable (in the UK anyway) & multiplayer gaming was kicking off, it made for some awesome online gaming - alt fire on the Flak Cannon usually sorted the adversaries out. Other than that, the original Start Wars, sit down arcade machine was quite incredible for it's day, 3D vector graphics, dodgy music & all that...

Cool! Thanks for the insight

No, you don't really see much of the Buck Rodgers Starfighter - shame... For those who can't deal with Twiki, you could always can (or even can-open) the little metallic Muppet & go it alone. A suitable alternative to the Starfighter would be the Angel Interceptor, single seat right enough, but does 3000mph with a range of 25 thousand miles. Also worth considering is the free Angel that comes with the bird;

15 day endurance & Mach 8 (in atmosphere) can't be bad;

"Out of memory on line..." is quite common while running Internet Explorer & is usually caused by add-ons or toolbars - try removing any toolbars or add-ons that you don't need & see how you get on.

That's what I'm led to believe as well - something to do with airflow over the inner gun extension tubes.

I would also advise the Revolution CR or Eclipse HP-CS - both perfectly capable & reliable airbrushes. Asked to pick between the two I would plump for the Eclipse HP-CS as the "drop-in" nozzle arrangement is more user friendly than the screw in system of the Revolution series. In addition, if you wanted to go for the additional needle / nozzle option, this a fair bit cheaper with the Eclipse & doesn't involve messing about with the needle seal when you want to change from one set to another as it would with the Revolution!

X-Acto X3241 "Craft Swivel Knife" & X245 Blades

Missed hub, thinking disk.. Olfa & Xacto both make craft knifes that have a small trailing blade that rotates in the handle - possibly one of these in a regular compass would work, or even a regular No.11 blade Heath Robinson'd onto a compass?

You could try an Olfa Circle Cutter, CMP-1 is the best bet for the task I would think.

That is absolutely incorrect (I'm sure that you will be happy to hear). Oil lubricated compressors are generally fitted with adequate filtration so that oil isn't an issue - think about all the guys in the auto refinishing game that work from large oil lubricated shop compressors, they can't afford to have oil in their air supply any more than you & it's taken care of by filtration. Oil lubricated compressors are used in workshop situations where the tools on the end of the line require to be lubricated, but this is carried out by specific in-line lubricating equipment & has nothing t

12000 Micro Mesh is more like 4500 than 2000, a 2000 equivalent would be somewhere between Micro Mesh 4000 & 6000. Micro Surface Finishing Products, who make Micro Mesh have a table on their site HERE.

I would strip it & try again, possibly using more tape - if you don't have any luck try using some liquid thread sealant like Loctite 542 or similar - although expensive if you can't "borrow" some, it can be far easier to use than tape.

Possibly worth contacting Systematic Automation, who make quite a wide variety of machines like the F1, 810 & CC-5000.

This may help.

Wouldn't be the proposed "EA-6C" would it? Thought so...

I've never bought a pre-cut mask, so can’t comment on them, I’ve not used bare metal foil, so can’t comment on that (although I’ve seen a few comments about adhesive residue being an issue), I've used liquid mask & didn't like it very much - I just couldn't get good enough straight edges (although it can be good for filling in between taped boundaries). Tamiya / Kamoi type tape is the best material I have found for the job & there are a few ways of applying it; Cut thin strips for each edge & build up a mask working from the boundary of the transparen

H&S 104473 (Hose quick connect) & H&S 104083 (Airbrush tail), both can be found HERE. H&S do a hose connector with a air control valve (104723), but Precision German don't seem to list it; You could also try a Grex stockist for THESE.

These may help; 1) 2) 3)

Warm water here as well - it's significantly quicker (especially if you have any qty. to do) & doesn't cause any issues.

I think a combination of reduced pressure & distance will help solve the problem.