Air-Craft

Now that's one cool video & it certainaly looks like it bee "transformerised"! Just one thing though, is it me or is there a considerable amount of flex between the inner & outer front strut/oleo on some of the not so smooth touch downs, or is this normal?

If you haven't bought the regulator yet, you could just source a standard side mount 1/8" thread gauge which would be relatively inexpensive. This sort of thing;

I wouldn't imagine it's a great idea, the Sprint Jet doesn't have a pressure switch as such fitted & you would be relying on a safety / overload feature. The Sprint Jet gives 100% output constantly & the bleed valve simply splits that output between your airbrush & the bleed outlet. Auto on/off & receiver compressor have a pressure switch connected to the motor which cuts the motor at a predetermined pressure to prevent bypass or tripping. I'm not completely certain & don't have a bleed compressor at hand to look at - there may be a pressure relief valve on the head,

Does the regulator's chrome cover definitely have to be removed? Looking at some images of the Sprint Jet & Sparmax TC-501 it looks like the gauge, inlet & outlet connectors have to be removed to take the chrome cover off…………… The gauges on these things are fitted to the regulator in the factory with a liquid thread sealant which can become very hard when set, almost like a varnish. A spanner or shifter on the square section of the gauge will crack the seal, but be sure to support / hold the regulator properly while doing this. If you feel you are putting too much force on t

The respirator linked to is fitted with 2091 filters, you might have more luck with full organic vapour filters like the 6051?

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^ Tinting Future with Tamiya clears is exactly what I do, the colour choices are slightly limited, but by can get pretty much everything you need by mixing shades & varying the ratio of Future to Tamiya.

Can we start a petition? Even a decent & available Euro F-16A tail in 1/32 would make me happy!

Did I mention an F-16A / MLU?

F-16A / MLU please............

Skip the Future & if you’re using an airbrush, avoid spraying towards the edge of the masking as this will cause paint build up - spray lightly & vertically downwards onto the tape edges to get coverage.

I was having a quick look through some of the Williams photos of Mr Soplata's collection & see that he even has the nose of a HP Victor - I'm figuring that it might be the nose of XL191, which crashed / had a very heavy landing at Hamilton, Ontario?

While not specific to Israeli F-4's, Airtime Publishing's "McDonnell F-4 Phantom, Spirit in the Skies" does have some useful information on Israeli F-4's. It's got operator, weapons & a thorough variant sections (detailing serials & including the Kurnass 2000), production summary...............

I would agree & say that it's completely possible - if you've spent any time trying to fish out accurate export commodity codes it easy to see why one type of solid fuel rocket could be confused with another.... On calling UK Customs with a query regarding commodity coding on airbrush equipment, straight off the top of his head the customs official says "Yes, that's in chapter 84, the nuclear reactor one". I thought the guy was off his rocker, but chapter 84 was correct - "Nuclear reactors, Boilers, Machinery & Mechanical Appliances; Parts thereof"

That in itself is worrying!

Memory & CPU speed are pretty important, if your budget allows a machine with Win7 64 bit would be a good choice as 64 bit allows for more system memory - Win 7 32 bit is limited to 4Gb, where 64 bit can take from 8Gb to 192Gb depending on what version is being used. Another thing that can be helpful with Photoshop if you work on large images or used multiple layers & filters is a dedicated graphics card as opposed to an integrated one. Other than that look for a decent processor, screen & connectivity.

You reading Storm Front by any chance? (excellent book) Not certain on decals specific for your Strikemaster, but a few sets have been made for Oman Hunters, which might be better than nothing. The 1/72 scale census site has a few listed HERE

Thank for the info jmel! I've read a bit here & there regarding the block numbers & am still slightly totally confused - I understood that block numbers were basically manufacturing blocks & that each would be different, meaning that a block X would never be a block Y. I'm no F-16 expert in the slightest, but I had it in my head that the Taiwanese F-16A/B's were originally block 15 OCU's which had the MLU & were then later classified as block 20's - is this not what happened to the European block 15 OCU - MLU's? Along with rescribing you mention other mods - would you be able

I'm looking for a 1/32nd Viper to represent an RNLAF F-16, I believe that their Viper's started out as F-16A Block 15OCU's which were later updated to Block 20MLU's - having PW engines, small intakes & larger tailplanes? Is there currently an F-16 in 1/32 which can be used to represent the Block 20MLU's & if not, is there one that would provide a good starting point without too much serious modification? Thanks.

Is Model Master 2035 not AMC Grey / FS36173 in enamel?

If you want to stick with MM Acrylic, other than mixing I would say that 136819 Dark Gray (F-15) & 136817 Gunship Gray are the closest, 136819 being slightly lighter & 136817 slightly darker.

S_amsung offer relatively good bang for the buck & are quite decent machines, don't know about the US, but the RF711 is available over here with 17.3" screen, 6GB RAM, 1TB HDD on i7 & Win7 for decent money; For some reason the proper spelling of S_amsung is being replaced by "I'm a spammer, please report me"?

Nice, but not a clue where it's headed. Decent walkaround of 140448 on PrimePortal HERE.

1) Italeri's 1/72 B-52 - Opinions on this kit seem to differ, but the one I attempted was a complete dog, wing root's you could drive a bus through, engine pylons that didn't match the wings, crew hatches that were too small........... it's the only kit to date that I haven’t managed to finish! 2) AMT's XB-70 - the upper rear fuselage on this kit is just nasty!

Regular air compressor regulator aren' capable of withstanding the output produced by a CO2 bottle - so no, but the regulator that you posted the link for in the following post looks fine.