Air-Craft

Not sure that anyone in the UK has them yet, although this will no doubt change in time - but at the moment none of the Badger importers seem to list them yet. The Hobby Company (UK Tamiya importer among other things) list the R2061 jar adapter, but not the R2060 jars yet. Other than getting them from the US at the moment, it might be worth getting in touch with some of the official UK importers; SHESTO J. PERKINS

Both the H&S & Iwata are good choices. The Evolution Solo comes in just under budget & the Evolution Silverline just over budget - they are useful in the fact that they give you a number of needle / nozzle sets (0.2 supplied, 0.15, 0.4 & 0.6 available)& paint cups to expand to at a later date................

Hasegawa 1/48th Seaking with decals for "Helo 66", the Apollo recovery bird?

It looks like another Chinese job, if it's the Lenco 301 double action gravity fed with 7ml cup it looks very much like the Fengda BD130 or Royal AB130 (Which appear to be identical). Opinions seem to vary dramatically on these brushes, from excellent to not fit for purpose............

As has been said, Armory from Ukraine make some nice 1/72 stuff like THIS

I think that the issue with the Tonka wasn't so much "hot & high" as "hot & dusty", most of the prodlems seem to revolve around reliability & availability caused by the heat & dust which caused far more issue with it than the Harrier. The chances of it getting airborne in the first place were somewhat less than the Harrier; "Current figures show the Tornado has a "ground abort rate" of 11.6 per cent, Mr Lancaster said. By contrast, the Harrier has only a 0.34 per cent abort rate."

If your compressor is of the hermetic / fridge motor type (like Sil-Air, Silentaire, Jun-Air....) then the oil marketed for any of these brands should do the trick - as far as I'm aware they are all similar (if not identical) fully synthetic, monograde oils. Rol-Oil Sincom 32/e is what's supplied by Sil-Air & I imagine it's also what's supplied with Silentair, although possibly re-branded. I would stay away from multigrade motor oil, it's got a whole load of additives that aren't required in a compressor. I belive that some industrial, synthetic compressor oils will work, but these are us

Nice, clear site with some lovely work on display. If I had to have a gripe, it would be that the images could be larger to better showcase your work (possibly using something like lightbox to display them would be pretty impressive, if it could be added to the site).

Nice pics - thanks. I'm just loving that Chinook getting ready for an airlift!

Sand, dry fit, sand, dry fit............... until you have something that you are happy with, minimising the amount of filling required by dry fitting is the way to go. If your wing is larger at the root that the fuselage section it meets with, consider sanding the wing half flat down on a sheet of sandpaper placed on a flat surface, but apply pressure to the root end as opposed to the tip end of the wing, do this equally on both halves of the wing but don't go overboard or you may knack your leading edge or end up with a distorted wing. Wing fitting / alignment tabs can be the cause of probl

I'll agree with that, although it looks like the B-1C "Bubbletop" variant. Thanks for some good pictures of an interesting visitor!

Mr Colour Thinner or Mr Color Leveling Thinner (Leveling contains retarder & is reputed to be better for airbrushing)- GSI's recommended ratio is 1:1.5>2 (paint:thinners). Mr Color Thinner 50ml=T101, 110ml=T102, 250ml=T103, 400ml=T104, Mr Color Leveling Thinner 110ml=T106, 400ml=T108.

The grounding in 2010 of the T1/T1A fleet arose after a fatigue crack (in it's infancy I believe) was found on a structural part of the seat, after the discovery of the crack the T1/T1A fleet was immediately grounded pending full inspection & returned to flight after all the necessary checks had been carried out. This latest, sad incident doesn't seem to have grounded the entire fleet & I imagine that between them the RAF & MB would have got to the bottom of the previous problem, so I doubt very much it's connected

Hi-Decal (from Poland I think) do a 1/72 Mig-15 set, the part number is 72022 & it looks to be available from both Hannants & Linden Hill Imports; Review / More info Hannants Linden Hill Imports

The HP-SAR is the only single action airbrush in their line-up.

Flexible fineline tape that the automotive guys use for pinstriping & detailing is also quite effective

There is an excellent walkaround of the the F-100 HERE, although it's an F model, it may be of some use to you.

There is an online petition HERE for those who are interested.

Tamiya primer goes down very well straight out of the can, although you may waste slightly less decanting & airbrushing it. If you are determined to airbrush your primer why not go for an airbrushing primer the likes of Alclad?

Not a Paasche expert by any means, but; Swollen / damaged air valve seal (23) as suggested, preventing air valve from closing, Paint or contamination preventing valve pin (24) from closing, Worn or missing spring (25), insufficiently tightened air valve screw (26). Parts Diagram

Thanks guys.

Nice pics - thank you! Do I get a free upgrade for my Tu-160 decals then . On a more serious note, I've never studied the Bear that much, only the Blackjack & I've never seen grey Kh-55's on or with a Blackjack, they always seem to be white. Is this peculiar to the Bear Kh-55's or is it a timescale thing?

Recce pods aside, I've always thought that the Saudi scheme was the better looking; Pic Pic

As far as I know 61-7971 originally had white markings, but the entire fleet was changed to a low visibility scheme at some point in the 80's, with the insignia & "US Air Force" markings removed & the tail numbers changed to red. The same aircraft was also one of the ones that were "reactivated" in 1995, before being passed to NASA (although not being used). When it was reactivated it had red marking the same style as the white ones it currently has, but with the addition of tail-stripe. Weather they were changed back to white at NASA or for display at Evergreen I really don't know.

As you probably know, the outer wing & nacelle swing about the joint on a row of attachment points... It's held in place by a bar which connects between centre of the outer wing panel & the top of the fixed part of the fin (just forward of the pivot point). The SR-71 on display at Evergreen Aviation & Space Museum (61-7971) is / was on display with it's nacelle open, here are some pics of it & some others - the NASA LASRE one probably being the best; Pic Pic Pic Pic Pic Pic