Jump to content

Billabob

Members
  • Content Count

    131
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Billabob

  1. I'm looking to build a couple of 1/48 F-4Ns from the mid 70s. Specifically VF-111 Sundowners and VF-51 Screaming Eagles when they were with CAG19 on the USS F.D.Roosevelt with the NM tail code.So far the only 'N' version I've found is a 1/72 Hasegawa that does have the VF-111 decals that I want but I prefer 1/48. Can anyone give me some options? Aftermarket is OK but I'm not sure about scratch building. As far a decals...I plan on painting if I cant get decals. Alan
  2. Kei Lau, The needle does look straight. I haven't checked centering though. I will now. Thanks Tonio, I use Model master enamels thinned with either the testors enamel thinner or lacquer thinner. I try for the consistency of milk whe thinning. Alan
  3. Thanks for the replies. Chief... U bought the brush at HK. I will go see if they have spares. Curt... good idea. I' try to remember with what few functioning memory cells I have left :D Alan
  4. I have a Neo for Iwata That I got a few months ago. It's. done a good job for me so far on all the small parts I've painted. When I was almost done painting a model car body it started spitting out big drops of paint and made my real nice paint job look like c... After sanding and painting some more, near the end of the session it did it again. I tried thinning the paint more and less but nothing worked so I stripped it to start over. I got a better quality paint and it did it again. I was getting very frustrated. When I was cleaning the airbrush I noticed a big accumulation of paint in the
  5. Another option is to soak the model in Purple Power. I tried it this weekend on a poor paint job that I wanted to redo. Put it in a plastic container and let the mode soak for about 24 hours. The paint came right off in most places. A couple of places I had to scrub with a toothbrush and some Comet Cleanser.
  6. This is what I use. I've had no problems with it. http://www.hobbico.com/accys/hcar3410.html
  7. Thanks guys! I know from reading others posts that one of the bays is a little small on the 1/32 parts. I'm hoping it's not to bad here. The detail on the Aties parts is amazing and the LOX bottle looks like the real thing where the Hase bottle....well it' doesn't.. Depending on if I get my Hornet intakes from Two Mikes this weekend, start on the bays next weekend.
  8. Thanks for the replies. I am talking about the kit bays. The question I have is where to cut. Do I cut from the inside of the body (bottom of pic) or from the outside (top of pic). Im thinking from the inside by scoring along the top side of the bay against the body but I'm not sure about the bottom section that is part of the body. I hope this makes sense..
  9. I am diving into uncharted waters here. I just received the Aries resin electronic bays for my 1/48 Has A-7E which show amazing detail. I knew up front I was going to have to remove the originals from the kit. Now that I've got them I'm ready to get started but for one small thing...I'm not sure about the best approach for cutting them out. :unsure: I have a CMK razor saw and a whole slough of different types of knife blades I'm just not sure.:unsure: HELP Alan
  10. I've been following this build from the start and have to say... This is beautiful!! I'd love to see what you could do with a colorful late '70s early '80s Navy bird. Alan
  11. Thanks MoFo. That looks easy enough.
  12. Hi Guys. I mainly do jets but I won a Revell/Monogram '85 Mustang SVO. As I was looking thru kind of piecing it together I noticed the interior had no headliner or any kind of cover where the front and rear window attached to the interior roof. I was wondering what people do to cover things like this/ Alan
  13. Nice job. I have the same model on the bench.<br>
  14. Thanks. Maybe I didn't get it clean enough. I guess I'll try again.<br>
  15. I've been searching all over for the answer to this question. What is the angle of the vertical stabs on the Super Hornet? My Revell tails have a lot of slop and I need to nail it down. I know Flyin Leathernecks makes an alignment jig for the Hase A/B/C and D but not mine. Help. Alan
  16. I have some resin parts that I need to paint. I'm using Model Master enamels and I'm having a hard time getting it to stick.i.e. it rubs off easily after sitting for a few days. Is there a primer I should use?
  17. Chuck I've been enjoying following your WIP. I am blown away by your skills. I hope some day to be half as good as you. I'm very new to modeling and have been learning as much as I can from the forums here and elsewhere. One new thing for me is what you stated here about a wet Kleenex trick. Could you tell me what that entails? I'm looking for different masking methods. Alan
  18. Thanks Larry. I don't know why I didn't see it.:russian-roulette-smiley:
  19. Where is this phantom "edit button" located? I've been searching for it on one of my posts but no luck.
  20. Well I decided I needed a change of view for a little while so I thought I would attack the exhaust. I initialy painted it with MM steel metalizer but I didn't like the look. I remember Chuck530z3 did quite a wip on his CF-18 so i went through his post and found what he had done. So U went and bought some Alclad2. Basically he masked the folds of the petals after spraying flat black then used Alclad chrome and steel. I went one further and used a light spray of Alclad jet exhaust at the rear. Thr pic doesn't show the effect very well but it looks real good. I'm not crazy about the results
×
×
  • Create New...