TonyA
Members-
Content Count
29 -
Joined
-
Last visited
About TonyA
-
Rank
Glue Required
-
Yes, Gunze sells a retarder. Mr Retarder. No kidding. I guess that's where they get the retarder they use in the leveling version of Mr Color thinner. You can find it at Red Frog Hobbies. Hope it's ok to link to them. Tony
-
I've used lacquer thinner with the nail polishes I've used. DuPont, Mr Color, Tamiya; they've all worked fine. I can remember a couple folks over the years that have had the nail polish they were trying gum up with lacquer thinner but I've never had a problem. My favorite gloss clearcote is Rimmel 60 Seconds gloss nail polish. It's perfectly clear, stays that way and is hard as nails. Some nail polishes require several coats to build up color. Tony
-
Since you have Tamiya paints I'd stay with that for the freehand camo. Thin Acryl too much and it runs like water, Tamiya doesn't do that. At least not with denatured alcohol as the thinner. With Tamiya, you could fill a bottle with alcohol and then add enough paint to color it and spray away. It still gives good coverage. And I use low pressure in a fine tip brush. In airbrushing the general rule is to spray straight on. With freehand camo learning to tip your brush slightly so you're aiming back into the patch/area you're painting will decrease the overspray on the outside edge a little. Jus
-
Microscale makes something called Liquitape. It works pretty well for multiple assembly/disassemblies. Only problem is, to get it all off requires a little thinner of some sort. It doesn't melt styrene to adhere to it, it's just really sticky. But, when there's just no other way to hold something in place... Tony
-
If you want to thin Future all you need is a little water. Preferably distilled water but tap water will do in a pinch. Tony
-
How would you go about cutting clear styrene disks?
TonyA replied to Jennings's topic in Tools 'n' Tips
Well, my .250 punch isn't chipped. It's a little dull but will work. Finished discs are .252 in diameter. I have some .015 thick that is Evergreen and some .010 that is labeled Squadron. There's another pack somewhere but I haven't found it yet. My offer stands. If you can use that diameter and thickness I'd be happy to knock some out for you, no charge. Send a private message if you'd like. Tony -
How would you go about cutting clear styrene disks?
TonyA replied to Jennings's topic in Tools 'n' Tips
If .250 inch will work Harbor Freight sells a 9 punch and die set that goes from .125 inch to .750 inch. .125, .187, .250, .312, .375, .437, .500, .625, .750. It's listed online for $29 and discount coupons aren't hard to find. Not sure if Evergreen sells clear styrene in sheets but Plastruct does. They have different thicknesses and it isn't nearly as brittle as CD cases are. You can use it for vacuum molding or simply heat and pull down over what you want to copy. Don't have it in front of me and don't recall the thicknesses but I bought a pack of several small sheets with 3 or 4 different t -
It's a very simple thing to do. I take a couple inch long piece of 1/2 inch masking tape and stick it to the backside of the aerosol nozzle, hold a full length straw against the front of the nozzle and push the ends of the tape against the straw. The tape will be wider than the straw so you can squeeze the edges of the tape together to get a better seal. Spray however much you need into a jar or jars. The paint will run out the end of the straw as a liquid. Of course propellant will come out too so you can't fill the bottle all the way without some splashing out so I don't try to fill it compl
-
If the piece is very thick I've never been able to completely get rid of deflection but this will help. Use a spacer between the side gauge and the piece you're cutting that you can pull out before the cut. That will also keep the side gauge from moving after a few cuts. I cut a piece of .125 X .250 about 2 inches long to use for a spacer. Turn it so it's laying on the .250 side and the length is running with the blade. Then you can just add .250 to the length you want when you set the gauge. Slide the piece you're cutting up to it, slip the spacer out and make the cut. You can drill a hole an
-
Well, Denstore pretty much covered the different models of Iwata brushes. Other than cup size, the BR is a little shorter from the trigger to the front of the brush than the CR and the BR uses a .30mm nozzle/needle combination and the CR uses a .50mm combination. If you go to the Iwata website you'll find an article by Cyrus Tan about converting the CR to a .30mm nozzle and needle. Very easy to do. These are the only Iwatas I've tried to date and I like them a lot. I think for the price they're hard to beat. They do use small, screw in nozzles but I don't find that to be a problem. On most of
-
I like airbrushes so I have a few. Don't have an H&S yet but it's on the list. An Iwata Revolution CR is the one that hangs on the side of the paint booth nowadays. With a Revolution BR close by. If I have a lot of primer or single color to spray, I reach for a Badger 360U with a bottle. I get tired of refilling the cup on a gravity feed sometimes. If I really need to put out a lot of paint, a Badger 175. For larger areas that still require a fine touch or if there's a lot of shading to do I have a Badger 100LG with fine tip that does a very nice job. There's also a T&C Omni 4000 that
-
Yes, I bought from them last spring. I realize I don't have many posts here and you don't know me but I had no problems. I have no affiliation with this company. I felt the same as you do, too good to be true, but it was the real thing. Brand new brush with a wrench for the head, a spare needle and a second air cap without the protective arms in a fitted cardboard box. I live in the US and had the package in 3 or 4 days. I don't know the relationship between the two and this is just a guess but I believe this company is somehow affiliated with Badger. Another guess would be that if you see a n
-
I think the Sotar is a fine airbrush and can vouch for the link that Don provided. I bought one from them a year ago and at that price it's hard to beat. The Renegade Velocity and Krome are basically larger versions using the same technology. The small physical size of the brush and the short distance from trigger to tip let you get up close and personal for fine detailing and shading. But, whether you go with one of these brushes or use the Fine setup with your current brush you may have to adjust your thinning ratios and maybe do a little more flushing and cleaning. Tony
-
I'm not an old hand at this, I got back into the hobby about 9 years ago and immediately got into airbrushing. First part of last December I came into a little extra money. I'd never used an Iwata before and was sorely tempted to go all in and buy a Micron CM-C or at least an HP-C. But, I've seen several people's work here and read Cyrus Tan's mods to the Revolution CR so decided that was the way I was going. Get an entry level Iwata and see how it compared to the brushes I'd been using. It was quite a pleasant surprise. It works very well and is very easy to use. Using acrylics in the other b
-
Iwata Revolution CR, $72.95 delivered in the US from Chicago Airbrush Supply or Coast Airbrush. Gravity feed, 1/3 ounce cup, .50mm nozzle and needle with a .30mm nozzle and needle readily available. Fine brush. Tony