don weixl

Kevin I am looking for some colourful 1/32 F-14 decals. Do you have any or know where I might locate some?

I was gifted the Tamiya 1/32 Tomcat kit when a friend passed away. Unfortunately the decals are in pretty rough shape. I am wiling to pay for a decent set of early F-14A decals (partial sheets are OK as long as there is enough for 1 aircraft. Thanks for looking. I am in BC Canada.

Thanks Rider Fan! I can see that the tanks and panels on the intakes are different coplours than the horizontal stabilizer from your photo. Colour photos, especially in books, can be deceiving when it comes to fluorescent colours, in my experience.

Thanks John. I am doing an 1963 AETE 104 either 701, 702, 703, 704 or 705, There is a great black and white photo of the 5 of them in the Bashow book on page 14. I have seen colour photos where the tanks look orange and others where they look red...

I am finally getting around to painting a AETE (Test) CF-104 in the natural metal scheme. I am wondering if the horizontal tail and the tip tanks (on occasion) are a fluorescent red, fluorescent orange or just plain red? Thanks for any input. Regards, Don

unbelievable...

I pooched my last canopy. Does anybody have a spare that they can sell to me? Regards, Don Weixl

I meant CYANOACRYLATE (super glue/crazy glue).I have forgotten the proper short form name....brain fart...

I built my spray booth using plywood and an exhaust fan that I bought surplus at Princess Auto supply for about $50. I believe it was an exhaust unit from a DC-9! It has an electric motor the size of a furnace motor and sucks like crazy, although it is noisy as a Harrier in a hover (very noisy). Don Weixl

I am contemplating building a couple of Hobbycraft kits that feature out of scale recessed panel lines. I was wondering what would be better..fill in the panel lines with thin styrene rod or to use ACC before rescribing? Regards, Don Weixl

I have one and never use it....I prefer other options to hold small parts such as small alligator clips on the end of bamboo skewers which I can stick into a foam block.... You use to be able to buy them at Radio Shack.

I have heard of modelers checking seams by using silver paint or even a silver sharpie. Do you remove the silver before your topcoat or just paint over? Any comments would be appreciated. I am trying to avoid priming the entire model to prevent hiding very fine surface detail. Regards, Don Weixl

I am interested in learning how to scratch build wheels and tires for aircraft models. I am amazed when I see resin aftermarket wheels and tires..I know somebody had to create the masters. I am guessing a lathe would be required for the basic shapes, but the wheel hubs are often very complex and symmetrical. Regards, Don Weixl Jr

Those look amazing. Could you be so kind to enlighten us on how one makes the masters for something so difficult and complex looking? I don't plan on starting a business or anything, just intrigued on how you produce such "perfect" masters. thanks, Don Weixl Jr.

Hello, Can anybody direct me to information on what type of Corsair Hampton Gray flew and if decals are available? I have the 1/48 Tamiya F4-1A kit bit I suspect Hampton Gray used a F4U-4. Thanks! Don Weixl Jr.

My nephew is painting an RC P-47 D and wants to do a RAF bare metal scheme. Does anybody know of any reference photos of such a beast? TIA Don Weixl

Looks great, especially for a 1/144th scale kit. I would get one in a heartbeat if I could find one around here. Regards, Don Weixl

I just got of the phone with my Dad. According to his log book, he flew MK5 Sabre AP-139 September 13 and 15, 1955 based at Zweibruken Germany in "High Battle". I may be forced to order this kit! I have some correct RCAF roundels around here on the Leading Edge sheets Regards, Don Weixl (Jr)

Has anyone seen the decal sheet for this kit? I was wondering what the 413 Squadron decals look like..camo or bare metal? Tail art? Regards, Don Weixl

Can anybody enlighten me on how they make the masters for resin parts, especially perfectly round parts like wheels? I was just marvelling at Ultracast's BF-109 wheelsets. Cockpits and wheelwell aftermarket resin parts are so perfect these days , I am guessing that the masters are manufactured using technology other than just scratchbuilding with strip styrene and pieces of wire. Regards, Don Weixl

What are the red, green and orange lights all in a line under the wing of the P-51 Mustang (and others) used for? Regards, Don

I have a paint drying "oven" that I made from a surplus plastic display case. I have added metal racks and a 100 watt light bulb for a heat source. It keeps the models and parts dust free and speeds up the drying times. I leave a thermometer inside to make sure it doesn't get too hot. A 100 watt bulb gives me about 100F. Total cost for the project was zero as I scrounged all of the parts. Don Weixl

Thanks for the replies. Can you comment on if laquer thinner effects the gloss of enamels or the durability? Regards, Don Weixl

A simple method when your wheels have a crisp edge to is to paint the wheel first with enamel. Once completely dry, I use thin grimy black acylic to paint the tire. The thin paint will run right up to the rim but not over, giving you a crisp line. You may have to do more than 1 coat of grimy black. The key is to get the paint the right dilution. Any slips can be wiped off with a Q-tip, micro brush etc... Regards, Don Weixl

Are there any comments on using laquer thinner for thinning enamels for airbrushing? I airbrushed Humbrol silver recently thinned with laquer thinner. It dried really fast, but also seemed to etch the plastic in some instances. In other places ( I was spraying several different sub assemblies and parts) it made a perfect finish. Are laquer thinned penamels only recommended over primer? The faster drying time is a bonus. Is the paint's durability affected? TIA, Don Weixl