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krow113

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About krow113

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  • Birthday 09/01/1961

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  1. Yaya! You buy now round-eye! Best condition quality 1/48 bride , she good , 1/2 hour later you buy again!
  2. Looking into this a few years ago I did find it cheaper to get the supplies and try the work myself. It is akin to the way circuit boards are made and the tooling for that will work for p/e model production. I did get all of the supplies but have yet to try it out, I went on a casting learning curve at the same time and got that sorted. I was also lucky enough to chat with Fred from FotoCut on the phone once. He was a real craftsman and asked me enough questions to almost put me off, when I kept going he knew I was gonna do it so he really helped me after that. Whenever |I see his stuff at shows in the vendor area I grab it , as it is all excellent quality. Disposal of the used etch liquid is the real problem , but in a hobby situation there wont be much of it.
  3. Workplace preparation helps in the modelling dynamic. I will blow out the area through an open window , and run an ionizer for an hour prior to painting. The ionizer works great clearing the air of dust particles. Personal prep helps too , clean shirt and pants and I'll wet down my arms and the front of my shirt as well. Blowing air through the airbrush in the painting area , without the model present , helps to get dust out of there before the actual painting starts. A light spritz of water on the bench surface helps too. If you draw air from an open window or similar wet t he area under it to catch any dust p[articles being drawn in. Lots of info there that wont cost a penny to implicate.
  4. Prior to the computer ruining the sign industry I regularly painted immense sheets of acrylic and polycarbonate. We would rinse with cold water and use a mix of water and Iso/alcohol to remove static. Wiping or blowing the plastic with air was frowned upon as any friction recreated the static. I rinse my models in cold water and refrain from wiping afterward. Any wiping or rubbing will reinstall the static.
  5. Air blower is a good option as well. As long as you don't blow parts off!
  6. In flight research had me try all kinds of ways to render the props. This is the best way for me to do it , a solid opaque item just looks too fake. It was either this or a bare spinner. Clear plex airbrushed to suit: Best reasons, no purchase needed , no disappointment after spending money on unrealistic a/m stuff. Best fun; Watching guys at shows double taking , thinking the prop IS spinning. HTH's
  7. … I still have a coupon from the Victoria model show for there...
  8. References, lots of them , from different sources.
  9. ...without the pink background... ...Hillclimber: ...and you'll never look at a sushi tray the same way again: Moral: Cars: Hard. Bikes : Way harder.
  10. I have one, I'm in Canada. The kit has one big drawback and that is the transparency's some of the kits came with really bad ones, watch out for that. I've had 3 go through my hands , the one I have now is perfect with perfect clear parts. I wasn't planning on selling it , but may be talked into it , as I don't have enough time left to build alla the kits I have.
  11. Its 1/48 and I don't know which version it is . How do I tell? I'll pull it out if you are interested.
  12. If you wanna spray the Furure, mix it down 50/50 with isopropanol alcohol , spray at med pressure , light coats , one or two at the most.. This will give a tough hard to scratch surface.
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