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About zero77

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    Glue Required
  • Birthday 02/24/1981

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  1. Hi, I hope this post wont be misinterpreted. I dont want to speak ill of anybody, but in that case i think it is really justified. This guy is a crook and he sullies the reputation of all the nice and honest resin producers. More than 2 years ago (31st March 2012) i've pre-order to Superbugmodels (Daniel Phelps) a full detail set for the F/A-18E. I paid $165 for it. It was due to be released very soon, in early April. But it hasn't. I wasn't too worry because Daniel Phelps always answered my emails and even sent me pictures of his WIP. He was saying that he was late for many reasons, but that the detail set would be release soon. He ave sweared that i WILL get my order. One year passed. Then another year. I'm a really a nice guy, i know, you can even call me naive. (anyway i could not do anything else than waiting). And now he does not answer anymore since late 2013. This guy has ripped me off, and i am not the only one given all the topic about him that we can read on many forums. But i've just have someone from paypal at the phone this morning. I've made a complaint about him (even if the 45 protection days are way over, a complaint is a complaint). And she told me that more numerous we are to make complaints toward him, more efficient will be the paypal action. So i just want to say to all the other people who has been ripped off by this guy to go to paypal complaint. If we are dozens or even more, his paypal account can even be restrained or closed. That may not bring back our money but that's a bit of justice. Thanks.
  2. Hi, I'm posting there as i cant have any contact from the website. Some weeks ago, i've made an order on the site. But as you know, one cant pay directly, you have to wait for them to check the availability and how much would cost the shipment, so your order is pending, payment status "estimating". My problem is that it's now several weeks and nothing has changed. I tried several time to send emails, but cant get any answer. Looks like a deserted website. It seems that i am not the only one in this situation (other people on LSP). So is there any one who know Kim, or who know what's happening at hobbydecals? I am now building a 1/32 NMF P-47D,engine and cockpit are done, will soon close the fuse, and so will follow the painting. I've anticipate my order to get those dry transfer in time, but i am now desparing getting them... Thank you in advance, Nicolas
  3. Thanks, For the UK available booth, i have seen, and it is the same than in France or in Germany. My link The airflow is 4m³/min, so it is 240m³/h, whereas the artograph one is 370CFM which make about 630m³/h. So even with 2 boots, it is below the artograph, and in addition the artograph airflow is downward, which is better i think. But that is true the Euro one is quite cheaper (note that i need 2 in dimension consideration) and in the good voltage, but i think i will take the artograph. I had several emails with them, they informed me that with a good voltage converter it will be ok, the only consequence of the frequency difference (50Hz in Europe while 60Hz in America) would be the motors to run a bit slower.
  4. Thank you, i will try it. The concerned decals are the 2 "static vent..." and "do not paint - torque to 120/140 Lb. In." stencils on the nose of the F-4J's. I placed them too high. I tried to reprint them on decal sheet, but it is too small, and the printing is not clean. If i cant find any other solution, i would use those reprinted ones, anyway.
  5. Thank you for your answers. I got a response from artograph today : I really dont a projector, but i will ask them if it would be Ok to use it with an adapter, as i dont mind order it in the USA. Marcelo, there is also the frequency to consider. I think frequency is 60Hz in the US and 50Hz in Europe, and i think it would impact the fan rotation speed or make them overheat. (but i have to confess i am a dumb in electricity...)
  6. I have a different problem, i have to remove decals without damaging them, from a smooth futured area. I have placed them at the wrong place. I tried with some microset but they dont want to move, while i even start to damage the paint underneath (no problem i will respray). Do you think it would be ok with some hot water?
  7. When i start to paint with an airbrush, i bought my first air compressor in USA, and it was in 110v. I did not have any problem with a 110 to 220v adapter, and it even happend that i forgot to plug the adapter and directly plus the compressor to 220v without any damage (you quickly realize something is wrong when the motor turn twice its normal rpm...). But in an amazon.com page for a artograph booth, it is clearly said : So i am worrying about using this kind of adapter...
  8. No i have not, but on the artograph site, it is said in the technical datas that it is 110v powered. I will try to send them an email, and we will see.... Spray booth seems to be more common in America than in Europe or Asia. American lungs say "thanks".....
  9. Hi, I want to buy a spary booth in order to avoid breathing all of these toxic fumes, but i need a quite big one (30") because i only build 1/32 kits. The artograph 1530 seems to be great, with its downward vacuum, but i cant find any one in 220v, and i live in Europe. On Ebay, it is written that even with a 110 to 220v adapter it would damage the booth. So, is there any way to adapt it, or does it exist any large and good paint booth in european voltage?
  10. Hello, Desperatly looking for a set of pitzmodels photoetched Su-27 nozzles, i have just found that Nothern Star (from Latvia) is about to release that : My link I dont know if it would be as good as pitzmodels was, but it seems that it could be a good alternative. Hard to say with only the few pictures, but the shape seems to tend to be narrower at the extremity, like a kind of conic shape, while the pitzmodels was just a bit open just like the real thing. It has to be confirmed.... Anyway, this set still is not available yet, so perhaps we could have some more reviews soon. I am about to begin the building of a Su-27 (waiting for some Zacto parts and new Akan paints, and also had to finish 2 phantoms...), so i find this new stuff very interesting !
  11. Hi everybody, Does anybody know if a 1/35 K-50 model exists or is intented to be released soon? I looked for it everywhere but found nothing. I cant understand why? There is many 1/72 models, some 1/48, but no 1/35. Same thing for the Mi-28... Another question : is there any conversion for the 1/35 Mi-24V from trumpeter in order to make a Mi-24P? (side mounted twin-barrel 30mm gun instead of the front mounted .50 gatling gun) THank you by advance !
  12. I've never seen such a clean work at this scale! I would have never tell that it is 1/72 if i have not read it... It is great !
  13. Thank you, Yes, it is because of the angle of the camera. The picture was nos shot perfectly straight above. I will try to make some few more shot, with a better light, because on those ones, the shades of metal finish are bitten by the excess of light, and the very slightly weathering, too. I tried to make this aircraft not so dirty, as it appeared on the original picture, but it is possible i was a bit too shy with that. It is both a good and a bad kit ! Yes it is one of the early trumpeter kits, with MIG-15's and MIG-17's. Actually, the kit is not so bad for its quite cheap price for this scale, but it is far from a tamiya or event a recent trumpeter kit. The dimensions seems to be good for me, excepted for the windscreen, which is too large compared to the real thing. There was a vaccum formed one with the pavla resin cockpit set, but it is exactly the same than the trumpeter one, but without the heating rails up the canopy, so i use the injected one from trumpeter. The engraving is the bad thing of this kit. It is quite irregular, quite good on top of the fuse, but almost absent on some areas, especially on the sides. So i had to engrave it again as anyway it is a bit fuzzy and not so deep. Adjustments are quite ok, but needs quite a bit of putty, though. The wing are only glued on the fuse, and i thought it should be a little fragile, so i made it stronger making somes holes through the fuse and putting 2 large pieces of sprue that could be glued inside wings. This way it is very strong. The kit decals, especially stencils, are good quality, but they printed nonsense stencils... There is 3 aircraft to make : a East-german, a chinese and a soviet one. I cant tell for the chinese as i cant read it, but for the german the stencils are in english language ("no step" !), and for the russian, they are in a strange traduction of english written in cyrillic ! ("но стeп") So i did use the russian ones as i had not anything else to do. So this kit is quite good, but with some (very) little issues. Not so bad for the price, and quite fun ! For those who like early migs, those early trumpeter kits are the only ones existing anyway, but they are quite OK with a little work.
  14. I also thing you should let it go. I you only spotted it after building, priming, glossing, posing decals and varnishing your model, it is obvious that this seam must be very hard to spot. I know that when we find a defect on our model it is then almost impossible to stop thinking about it, and we just only see it on the model. But you certainly will be almost the only one.
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