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Everything posted by zero77

  1. Hi, I hope this post wont be misinterpreted. I dont want to speak ill of anybody, but in that case i think it is really justified. This guy is a crook and he sullies the reputation of all the nice and honest resin producers. More than 2 years ago (31st March 2012) i've pre-order to Superbugmodels (Daniel Phelps) a full detail set for the F/A-18E. I paid $165 for it. It was due to be released very soon, in early April. But it hasn't. I wasn't too worry because Daniel Phelps always answered my emails and even sent me pictures of his WIP. He was saying that he was late for many reasons, but t
  2. Hi, I'm posting there as i cant have any contact from the website. Some weeks ago, i've made an order on the site. But as you know, one cant pay directly, you have to wait for them to check the availability and how much would cost the shipment, so your order is pending, payment status "estimating". My problem is that it's now several weeks and nothing has changed. I tried several time to send emails, but cant get any answer. Looks like a deserted website. It seems that i am not the only one in this situation (other people on LSP). So is there any one who know Kim, or who know what's happe
  3. Thanks, For the UK available booth, i have seen, and it is the same than in France or in Germany. My link The airflow is 4m³/min, so it is 240m³/h, whereas the artograph one is 370CFM which make about 630m³/h. So even with 2 boots, it is below the artograph, and in addition the artograph airflow is downward, which is better i think. But that is true the Euro one is quite cheaper (note that i need 2 in dimension consideration) and in the good voltage, but i think i will take the artograph. I had several emails with them, they informed me that with a good voltage converter it wil
  4. Thank you, i will try it. The concerned decals are the 2 "static vent..." and "do not paint - torque to 120/140 Lb. In." stencils on the nose of the F-4J's. I placed them too high. I tried to reprint them on decal sheet, but it is too small, and the printing is not clean. If i cant find any other solution, i would use those reprinted ones, anyway.
  5. Thank you for your answers. I got a response from artograph today : I really dont a projector, but i will ask them if it would be Ok to use it with an adapter, as i dont mind order it in the USA. Marcelo, there is also the frequency to consider. I think frequency is 60Hz in the US and 50Hz in Europe, and i think it would impact the fan rotation speed or make them overheat. (but i have to confess i am a dumb in electricity...)
  6. I have a different problem, i have to remove decals without damaging them, from a smooth futured area. I have placed them at the wrong place. I tried with some microset but they dont want to move, while i even start to damage the paint underneath (no problem i will respray). Do you think it would be ok with some hot water?
  7. When i start to paint with an airbrush, i bought my first air compressor in USA, and it was in 110v. I did not have any problem with a 110 to 220v adapter, and it even happend that i forgot to plug the adapter and directly plus the compressor to 220v without any damage (you quickly realize something is wrong when the motor turn twice its normal rpm...). But in an amazon.com page for a artograph booth, it is clearly said : So i am worrying about using this kind of adapter...
  8. No i have not, but on the artograph site, it is said in the technical datas that it is 110v powered. I will try to send them an email, and we will see.... Spray booth seems to be more common in America than in Europe or Asia. American lungs say "thanks".....
  9. Hi, I want to buy a spary booth in order to avoid breathing all of these toxic fumes, but i need a quite big one (30") because i only build 1/32 kits. The artograph 1530 seems to be great, with its downward vacuum, but i cant find any one in 220v, and i live in Europe. On Ebay, it is written that even with a 110 to 220v adapter it would damage the booth. So, is there any way to adapt it, or does it exist any large and good paint booth in european voltage?
  10. Hello, Desperatly looking for a set of pitzmodels photoetched Su-27 nozzles, i have just found that Nothern Star (from Latvia) is about to release that : My link I dont know if it would be as good as pitzmodels was, but it seems that it could be a good alternative. Hard to say with only the few pictures, but the shape seems to tend to be narrower at the extremity, like a kind of conic shape, while the pitzmodels was just a bit open just like the real thing. It has to be confirmed.... Anyway, this set still is not available yet, so perhaps we could have some more reviews soon. I am about
  11. Hi everybody, Does anybody know if a 1/35 K-50 model exists or is intented to be released soon? I looked for it everywhere but found nothing. I cant understand why? There is many 1/72 models, some 1/48, but no 1/35. Same thing for the Mi-28... Another question : is there any conversion for the 1/35 Mi-24V from trumpeter in order to make a Mi-24P? (side mounted twin-barrel 30mm gun instead of the front mounted .50 gatling gun) THank you by advance !
  12. I've never seen such a clean work at this scale! I would have never tell that it is 1/72 if i have not read it... It is great !
  13. Thank you, Yes, it is because of the angle of the camera. The picture was nos shot perfectly straight above. I will try to make some few more shot, with a better light, because on those ones, the shades of metal finish are bitten by the excess of light, and the very slightly weathering, too. I tried to make this aircraft not so dirty, as it appeared on the original picture, but it is possible i was a bit too shy with that. It is both a good and a bad kit ! Yes it is one of the early trumpeter kits, with MIG-15's and MIG-17's. Actually, the kit is not so bad for its quite cheap price fo
  14. I also thing you should let it go. I you only spotted it after building, priming, glossing, posing decals and varnishing your model, it is obvious that this seam must be very hard to spot. I know that when we find a defect on our model it is then almost impossible to stop thinking about it, and we just only see it on the model. But you certainly will be almost the only one.
  15. Hello, It is quite some time i have finished it, but i have decided to ask you what you think about. It is the 1/32 trumpeter Mig-19PM, with a PAVLA resin cockpit, and czech marking from a Mig-21 decals sheet. The number was painted with a custom made stencil as i did not have any decal for it. I have rescribed almost all of the panel lines (as they were not as deep as i wanted), then sanded, puttyed, sanded again, polished, then i applied a coat of ALCLAD grey primer, then polished again (with micromesh), then painted with various shades of alclad. I just think that it is not enough weat
  16. Hi, I have almost finished my F-16C barak, from tamiya F-16CJ 1/32. I will make a step by step review of this (i have taken many pics of all the process). But i have got a problem : there is an axe on the flaps, that go in the body of the aircraft, with a little pin which is locked in a little rubber cylinder, in order to let the flaps movable. I think one of these pins is broken on my right flap, as it is not tighten anymore. The flap is not locked, and go down by is own weight. There is quite a float and a little gap between the wing and the flap. And now the plane is almost finished, p
  17. There is also a clear gloss coat from alclad. I think it should be adapted for metallic finishes. I bought one bottle, but have not try it yet. My next project is a 1/32 MIG19, NMF, so i should be able to say what the result is.
  18. Hi, Very nice job, i love this version of the viper, and i'd like to build one soon. I also think there may be not enough contrast between the green and the sand colors. What is strange is that i also use some gunze sky H74 on my barak, and it was not so bright as it is on your sufa. Anyway, i found it too bright however, and so i also add few drops of H312 in order to make it a little bit greener and more contrasted, and i think the result is not so far from the real stuff : seems darker on some other photos : On the other hand, my camo is too blury i think. Marcin's one is p
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