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FTWalker

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About FTWalker

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    Canopy Polisher
  • Birthday 04/23/1966

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    Male
  • Location
    Columbus, Ohio USA
  1. Roden 1/48 OV-1A -SOLD- Complete, unstarted, sprues not bagged but no parts removed. Includes Eduard color PE Zoom set FE283 Asking $20.00US + shipping Roden 1/48 OV-1B -SOLD- Complete, unstarted, sprues still bagged. Includes Eduard color PE Zoom set FE320 Asking $20.00US + shipping Hasegawa 1/72 B-25J Mitchell (E16) Complete, unstarted, sprues still bagged. Crush damage on one end of box - no damage to parts. Asking $15.00US + shipping Shipping inside the U.S. will be via USPS Priority Mail at cost+$1.00 from ZIP 43228. I'll also ship international at cost. PayPal preferred Pl
  2. (All prices in USD) 1/35 Scale -Dragon/DML Marder III H (6331) $20.00 $15.00 -Sold- Sd.Kfz.251/21 Ausf.D "Drilling" (6217) $20.00 $15.00 -SOLD- Just added: Sherman M4A3E8 "Thunderbolt VII" (6183) $20.00 T-34/76 "German Army" (6185) $20.00 -Sold- (Original shrinkwrap + Tank Workshop resin exhausts (STZ 029)) 1/24 Scale -Hasegawa Kubelwagen Type 82 "DAK" (MV4) $15.00 $10.00 1/16 Scale -Tamiya Kubelwagen Type 82 Africa-Corps (36202) $40.00 $30.00 All kits are complete and unstarted, with sprues still bagged. Boxes have minor storage wear. Shipping inside the U.S. for all kit
  3. Complete and unstarted, all sprues still bagged. Minor storage wear on box. Optional Tamiya PE set included Asking $40.00US $25.00US + shipping -SOLD- PayPal preferred Shipping in the US will be via USPS Priority Mail at cost + $1.00 from 43228 ZIP Code. I'll also ship international at cost. Please PM me if interested. Thanks!
  4. I got mine at HF as well, 2 or 3 years ago. I couldn't find the one I have, but THIS looks similar. Not terribly loud, but with a 3 gal. tank, it doesn't run much - maybe 3-4 mins. for every 20 mins. of use. It does cause a startle when it kicks on, though
  5. Hey, Rich- Understood about using alcohol - I've actually had some paints turn to goo using it, so I'm careful to test compatibility. I did a quick adhesion test on smooth scrap plastic. Folk Art will definitely need a primed surface. After letting it dry overnight, I could easily scrape it off with my thumbnail. I actually peeled most of it off intact, almost like a latex paint. For airbrushing: After doing a little research on "airbrush mediums" that can be had from Createx, Liquitex, etc., I -think- that I'm on to something... Found this about airbrush mediums (craigcentral.com): Af
  6. I hate to say this, Army, but you've got me wanting to drag mine out of the stash and start on it. :P
  7. Thanks for that tip, Rich. After seeing this thread, I ended up getting that one today plus a few other metallics to try. Turns out Hobby Lobby has all Folk Art paints for $0.99 each this week :P Even at full price ($1.69), they look to be worth trying. BTW - what thins these best for airbrushing? I'm guessing distilled water plus a couple drops of retarder will be good, but I haven't had an opportunity to test it yet. Floyd.
  8. True. <cough>FW-190D-9<cough> :)
  9. The -A (the no-dash refit too) is actually easier to get looking "right" than some of the other ships, simply because there's only one right color - white. Now, prior to becoming the -A, the E was pearlescent white, but after, just white. Where you can really improve its look, is by "Aztec"ing the surface - makes it look like it's made of about a bazillion tiny panels. You can either paint the Aztec-ing (out of my league) or use... DECALS! They're a little pricey (you get 7 sheets of decals, though), but they'll save your sanity. I can vouch for their quality - got an Acreation set for my
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