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Matt

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About Matt

  • Rank
    Tenax Sniffer (Open a window!)
  • Birthday 06/24/1967

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  • AIM
    advntrrider
  • Website URL
    http://
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Freetown MA, USA
  • Interests
    Spitfires. 'nuff said.
  1. With a wet weekend I got a chance to get a bit more work done and get some pictures taken. I didn't like the way the miniguns were coming out, so I've decided to ditch those and go with just 19 shot rockets pods. This looks like a common fit for 135th AHC aircraft based on the pictures available. That also opens the door to doing 'American Woman', assuming I can figure out how to pull the markings together. Progress right now is gated around getting the figures squared away. The door gunner and crew chief have been finalized, the final step was to convert the heads to represent the face s
  2. Coming back to modeling after about a 6 year layoff and a bad case of AMS. This happened to be one of the few unstarted kits left in the stash. The plan was totally OOB, just something I could get through start to finish. I've built one before, and I was never very happy about the static stance just sitting there, but I didn't want to go build an entire revetment diorama either. So I'm going for an inflight build. I'm not going to sweat trying to make the rotors look like they are spinning, just something more 'action' than sitting on the shelf. This means spending some time making the f
  3. I started a UH-1C mid-August. I haven't done much other that a lot of dry fit, some work to pose it in-flight and general hackery of the figures. If its eligible , I'll be happy to join. Cheers, Matt
  4. Ahh, that is better. Looking at those sets, then as a rough rule of thumb, the aircraft with the large pointy rudders are 'late' and the aircraft with the smaller rounded rudders are 'early'. Cheers, Matt
  5. I'm sorry, I don't see any other examples in that link, no matter how far down I scroll. I only see MK483 and ML171 Assuming you are referring to 'late' MkIX details vs 'early' MkIX details, then the basic masks for the National markings (the roundels and fin flashes) should be the same, however, see Edgars point on the changes in January 1945. You would have to be more specific on which exact Spitfire (Serial) you are proposing on building and in what timeframe (as many aircraft ended up moving between different squadrons, or had different personal markings through their life, then the parti
  6. I'm not sure what you mean by 'early or late'. The link is to a set of masks for 2 specific MkIXc Spitfires. According to the notes, there are masks for the national markings and code letters, and decals for everything else. So, the masks themselves could be used on any Spitfire of that period. The code letters would limit you to those squadrons or any squadrons with that combination. So, I don't see anything that precludes you using them on early or late build MkIXs , or any other Sptifire in service at that period. If you are asking if these would work for a MkI, or an early MkV then no,
  7. If you just need the replacement kit decals I probably have a bunch of those you are welcome to. Matt.
  8. Matt

    Eduard figures?

    I pretty much agree with the linked review. The biggest issue I had with them was the poses. I couldn't see any way to pose the pilot / mechanics on an actual model (Tamiya 1/48th Spitfire) without major corrective surgery. In the end I gave up. Fit is ok for multipart plastic figures. More like the old Tamiya figures than say the really nice Gen 2 Dragon figures. Matt
  9. Thanks. It isn't as time consuming as it might appear. Here's how I tackle it. I work with Acrylics, mostly Tamiya, but PollyScale or Xtracrylics as well. I mix up the basic colour (dark earth in the picture above) in a small disposable plastic cup. I thin it, add some retarder and some gloss until its ready to spray. I mix up more than I will need. I lay down the base colour until I get a nice even consistent shade. It doesn't have to be flawless bu you want good coverage. Then I'll pour a small amount of the left over base colour into a new cup and mix it into a darker shade (maybe with
  10. Caveat, this is my personal opinion, others may vary. With either technique I don't think we have to be that dogmatic that the shading must be in panel lines, or the highlights must be in panel centers. Pre and post shading are just artistic techniques that allow us to introduce tonal variation in the final colour. Why we do that is varied. For sure, we might be trying to replicate the weathering of dirt in panel lines or the affects of sun bleaching. Also we are trying to introduce tonal variation to just break up the 'toylike' look of a solid colour, making it seem more 'realistic'. Other
  11. You could, but that would require even finer control of the technique. Don't forget that unlike pre-shading, with post shading there really isn't such a thing as going too far. If you end up with a post shading result for a colour that has too much contrast, (the dark shade is too dark and the light shades are too light) then all you have to do is go over it again with a thin mist of the base colour , just like you would with a pre-shade, to tone this down and even it out. Cheers, Matt
  12. The key here is that you put flat Tamiya on top of flat Tamiya and then used an aggressive agent (alcohol) to remove the wash which removed all the paint. What you want to try to do is apply a wash in such as way that the amount of effort and agents needed to remove that wash are as easy and least harmful as possible. A gloss coat (Future or Tamiya Gloss, or any appropriate Acrylic gloss) can help in 3 ways. 1: A nice smooth coat makes it easier to remove the wash, so less scrubbing and less need for aggressive agents. 2: It provides a bit more protection for the underlying coats. 3: It h
  13. No worries. PM me an address and I'll hunt up what I have and get them out in the mail this Saturday. Matt
  14. I have a bunch of the B's in different sizes. I have a couple of sheets of either C or C1, I forget. So, the next thing is to figure out the correct sizes. I'll look to see when I get home if any of the sheets specifically mention the Fort III to say what size the markings were on it, but it could be a pretty obscure aircraft to be on the list. The roundel size varied from aircraft to aircraft. I found a couple of plans, but the pictures are too small to read the measurements for the markings http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_nxN_vjldtng/Sdio...ress_Camo_1.jpg http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_nxN_vjld
  15. Which style of Roundel ? The A/A1 are the red/white/blue and red/white/blue/yellow with the wider white ring (same width as the blue) The B type is the normal upper wing red/blue The C/C1 are the later war red/white/blue and red/white/blue/yellow with the very narrow white ring RAF Roundel styles Cheers, Matt
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