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godfrey1775

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About godfrey1775

  • Rank
    Rivet Counter
  • Birthday 08/22/1982

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  • Website URL
    http://www.scaleairpower.com

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Atlanta, GA
  • Interests
    WW2 - modern aircraft
  1. Thanks Juan. I used the AKAN acrylic Flanker color set. From what Ive read, its generally agreed that they are the most accurate colors available. I believe it to, they are based in the USSR....er, I mean Russia.
  2. Just following up here. Thanks to all those that offered advice. I ended up painting the engines, masking them, free-handed the camo, then removed masks, touched up the engines where needed and attached the painted stabs. Not perfect, but overall happy with the results. Glad I attempted on the Academy kit, now I feel more confident starting the GWH at some point in the future. Sorry for the terrible lighting and phone photography. Burner Cans Engines Top View Side View
  3. For what its worth, my workbench is in my basement, in which I run a dehumidifier 24/7, and the workspace, although next to a window (ventilation folks!) does not receive any direct sunlight. So no UV exposure and very consistent temp/humidity. I wonder if that has any affect...
  4. I've had the same bottles of thinner and Poly for about 3 years and have had absolutely no issues.
  5. I gradually replaced almost all of my colors with Mission Models. I love the selection, color accuracy, and that I can spray or brush paint equally well. Also it needs to be said that the packaging is a huge plus. No screw tops that get stuck, ability to precisely measure paint by the drop for good, consistent results and I have found them to be quite durable and resistant to scratching or lifting under tape. I havent tried the metalizers yet, but if they are anywhere near as good as the rest of the lineup, I would be fine replacing my smelly alclad laquers and go 100% acrylic.
  6. Wow, what a great resource you found there. Love how he shows what shades of alclad he uses and where. Will be bookmarking this for sure. Thank you!
  7. This is great advice, thank you so much! Now I'm looking forward to pressing on with this build!
  8. For those of you have built the Flanker before, did you paint the exposed engine areas and mask them before adding those huge vertical stabilizers? It seems like once they are in place, it may be difficult to spray the outboard area of the engines where they approach the tail fins. On the other hand, I can see the benefit of completing all of the basic assembly and seam filling/sanding/primer before painting the bare metal. I do plan on spending a lot of time on the engines to simulate the real thing as closely as possible. For what it's worth, I'm using Alclad for the metal paints and Akan ac
  9. I use an empty coffee can with an old filter secured to the lid as my airbrush cleaning pot.
  10. +1 - Been using the same one for about a decade and it works great and filters are long lasting and are not expensive
  11. I use the Copic Sketch White Wax pen - It actually glows in the dark, and in the day it very closely resembles the color of the formation lights. https://www.amazon.com/Copic-Markers-G20-Sketch-Wax-White/dp/B001QWXWN8
  12. Let's not forget the twin seat Eurofighter.
  13. That's great information! I very much appreciate the insight. Your analogy about aircraft cockpits is dead on. I'm really enjoying tackling the different challenges posed by ship building vs aircraft and enhancing my skills. Thanks!
  14. Im experienced with building aircraft and just now getting into ships after touring the USS Massachusetts on a recent business trip. I picked up an old Arii 1/600 New Jersey at a show and have the sub assemblies built. Question is paint sequence. Is it best to fully assemble and then do extensive masking to paint the top side color and mask again to do the sides the Haze Gray, or do you recommend painting sub assemblies before attaching them? Is it better to paint the sides before the top, vice versa?
  15. My $.02 is the mask off the areas around the white stripe that is damaged to protect your paint there. Then sand down the area where your paint lifted and try to feather out the edges as much as possible. Step 3 spray your primer and let it dry. You will probably need to sand again, this time with increasingly finer grit. Once it's smooth, Spray the white again, let it dry, remove mask, and tah-dah!
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