PlasticWeapons

Kinetic also left out the intake splitter brace... Hasegawa instructions (part K28): Kinetic:

Ah, 30 years ago. My how time flies...

Decals and markings guide designed by Fightertown Decals.

Surface detail is smooth. The vertical tail fin tops aren't rounded but easy to fix. Hasegawa's tails are taller. The Kinetic tails match the height of the Monogram Hornet tails but slightly wider (chord). The fuel tanks are a tiny bit longer than the Hasegawa fuel tanks.

Tamiya won't release a new tooled Tomcat. Ever. Oh wait.

I bought a "few" :) of the remaining enamels and a smaller lot of acrylics. March 2013 was when I purchased the paint and all are still in great shape (unopened).

Yes, that's where I purchased my bottles from. He doesn't seem to have a lot of inventory left. Just a few color choices to choose from now.

There used to be this, Aeromaster Warbird Colors (made by Floquil) acrylic F.S. 36251: Or using Tamiya paints as an alternative: 3 parts XF-83 "Medium Sea Gray 2 (RAF)" 1 part XF-2 "Flat White" http://ipmsrealcote.pro-forums.org/t832-tamiya-mixes-for-some-fs-colors-full-up-to-date-list-in-english

http://scalemodels.ru/articles/4294-obzor-Skyraider-Model-Design-1-48-dekal-na-Mirage-2000D.html Video!

Easy Lift Off works great but it can also make certain styrenes brittle after use if left on too long. A better alternative is Super Clean (in purple bottle) or Westley's Blech-Wite tire cleaner. These products won't harm the plastic though they aren't strong enough to remove Tamiya lacquers but will work great against enamels or acrylics.

Sprue Brothers has the sheet in stock: http://store.spruebrothers.com/product_p/ftd48077.htm

The set doesn't have the advanced crew station mod.

TwoBobs is releasing another blizzard scheme sheet 48-251 soon.

I can't speak for the F/A-18E cockpit for the Italeri kit because I don't have it in my collection but I compared it to the F/A-18C cockpit and the tubs are identical in detail. As for the two seater, here's a cellphone pic of the Italeri and Hasegawa tubs side by side. The Hasegawa version has right sidewalls molded in and the Italeri tub has separate sidewalls.

Just these. Dremel with grinding bit, a miniature file and 400 or 600 grit sand paper from Home Depot.

I've built many Monogram F-14 kits over the years so I'm familiar where the kit has poor fit issues, especially with the re-releases. I have a couple of original kit releases and the fit wasn't so bad back then LOL. With the intake trunks, I had to grind down not only the outside of the parts but also with the inside part as well as the fuselage area. Here you can see the gap I need to fill for the opposite side and also the tool mark made when the Dremel bit skipped off the plastic. Oops! Going to need putty...

Without having to remove the intake parts and risking breaking of the plastic, your best option would have to be filing or grinding down the step and applying putty, which is what I did here: With all that sanding and shaping involved, that "armored plate" is going to disappear so I plan on replacing it with thin sheet styrene.

I'm looking for the 1/48 VF-31 decals from the Eduard/Hobby Boss "Danger Zone" kit. Paypal ready. Thanks.

Hasegawa made an early VF-2 F-14A decal sheet. The Fightertown Decal sheet features a VF-2 F-14A from Desert Storm era.

I've already PM'd Jeremy about your add request. He's aware but probably hasn't had time to approve your request.

Just strip the cockpit you painted and do it over instead of hiding it. ;)

Fine Molds also makes brass probes.

The A-4M kit has M specific parts such as the larger canopy and cannot be made into an A-4E/F. You can get the M kit for a good price then trade for an A-4E/F kit. :D

I too once had the Nikon D300s but disliked the noise at higher ISO settings for that cropped sensor. Switched to full frame D3S and D700 for sports (and air shows!), social events, and studio work and the same ISO settings used are much cleaner than the D300s especially in low light venues (no flash allowed). I once had the D7000 as well but I found the camera too small for my hands. The lenses I use most are Nikon's 50mm f/1.8G, 70-200mm f/2.8G VRII, and 85mm f/1.4G. For macro work, I currently use a Tokina 100mm f/2.8 lens. All of these lenses are designed for full frame but can be used wit

Early AV-8B night attack variant in gray/green camouflage: A nicely built Monogram kit by David Aungst: http://hsfeatures.com/features04/av8bmonogramdwa_1.htm