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PlasticWeapons

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Everything posted by PlasticWeapons

  1. Have the Detail & Scale book with early USMC AV-8A/AV-8B Harriers. Only 1 pic of the early Harrier ejection seat is shown but it doesn't look right for USMC birds, well, maybe for early Marine Harriers. Later pics of the USMC AV-8A's show a different seat with pull rings on the headrest (none seen on Brit Harriers). Anyone have pics of this seat? Would be happy to also find out what type(s) of seat were used in British Harrier GR Mk.1-3 as well. Thanks!
  2. 1:1 mix using Model Master Insignia Blue and the Testor's blue in the small bottles I think was the formula. Blue Angels Blue is a bit too gray for me.
  3. Forgot who posted it over on Hyperscale but try a "T.O. 1-1-4" search. Patterns for F-4, A-1, F-105, etc. was posted.
  4. Thought I'd share a technique and an in-progress build. Decided to try something new which I should have done years ago. Just lazy I guess! This is my second seat detailed a little better than the first one, which has disappeared mysteriously! It was for the better as it let me attempt the use of Tamiya epoxy putty again which I hate to use 'cause it's so sticky when you mix A and B together! However, I've found out that this stuff isn't so sticky when it's cold in the garage! I draped the putty over the headrest then draped a ribbon mesh over that to give it some texture. The little circles
  5. I finally decided to check out my Academy Hornet in November, more than 1.5 years since buying it from the 2004 Nationals from the now defunct Cheapest Hobbies(?) and found this in it! Stressed skin and a short shot area near the gear door openings would be. Thanks to Dave Roof for pointing me to Model Rectifier Corp. to get my replacement parts (I have two of these kits - with warped wings - and thankfully only one kit had this production problem). However, MRC is pretty slow! I think Carol over at MRC is the only one taking care of replacement parts. I contacted them in early December...sti
  6. ECM pods. I have a diagram from a very old big book, "The Great Book of Modern Warplanes" published by Portland House, New York. 1987. page 92-93. Interesting, this book says "This book may not be sold outside the United States of America and Canada". That was 1987! Since then, Canada left the US and became its own country.
  7. I'm working on the same kit. Yes, the tint in the canopy is too yellow but if you dip it in smoke colored Future, it should tone down the golden tint. I scribed lines on it like the Tamiya kit just to break up the boring-ness of the flat panels. I should be done soon.
  8. Wasn't this asked not too long ago? ;) Well here's my 2 cents: Best injection molded? I've been raiding the old 1/48 MONOGRAM F-15A/C kit (that's the single seater, not the Strike Eagle by Revell-Monogram). The rollerons(?) on the aft wings need to be added but the control vanes are nice and thin. A newer mold Sidewinder I like now is the one from the Hasegawa 1/48 Harrier kits. Aftermarket? SOL? But I think those are a copy of someone else's AIM-9s! In 1/32 however: Academy's F/A-18C AIM-9s or the Tamiya F-16CJ's missiles are great.
  9. Are you sure that's Play-Doh? Looks like something smelly!
  10. I've used Pollyscale's Easy-Lift-Off paint remover and is safe for plastics. I've used the stuff on 3 of my ten year old models and it stripped the paint off in 30 minutes. Do not soak the parts in it though. Instructions say brush it on and let sit for a few minutes. You'll notice that the paint will wrinkle and with a toothbrush, scrub the paint off. Works great! Follow instructions and wear gloves and eye protection. Strip-A-Kit is also good stuff.
  11. Oops! Double post! :huh:
  12. Ah, yes it is an EA-6A. Didn't notice the football on the tail! Should have seen that! First thought was Iron Hand Intruder but it was the nose that should have said "EA-6A". Doh! :huh:
  13. That would be me. I've found that if you want darker tints, you have to dip and let the Future dry for maybe a week. Then dip it again to make it darker. The VERY first coat will come out dark but dry light. That is why I wait a week or so and dip again to make it darker. I did that with a Hasegawa F-16B canopy with the forward portion much darker than the rear portion of the canopy. I don't like food coloring as the color pigments(?) aren't fine enough for my tastes. To make it a little more clear: I use Koh-I-Noor sepia ink (a brownish color very close to Tamiya smoke clear) and Sheaffer ca
  14. I think that's more of an A-6C. Will have to check with Detail and Scale book! Nice pic though.
  15. You can screw up a paint job but you can always use a paint stripper like Pollyscale's Easy-Lift-Off or even Strip-A-Kit to remove the paint just in case. Stuff works really well. Just follow instructions and use gloves and eye-protection. There's no secret in painting cockpits. I usually airbrush the cockpit color first then mask off what gets painted next, like aircraft interior black (with varying shades) to paint the instrument panels/consoles. If I don't like the paint job, I strip it and repeat. By the way, I use Model Master paint enamels exclusively.
  16. No pitot tube on the radome tip either!
  17. I've seen the Revell-Monogram re-release at hobby shops for $19.95. I think Squadron Mail Order was selling the same kit in Revell (Germany) boxes for $30. The Pro-Modeler kit was released in 1995 with a Case X wing. I think the Case XX wing was released prior to that (dunno what year) and I can't find one with the XX wing. I've built two of these kits already and have a third on the shelf. I can tell you what the pros and cons are of the kit but I'm too lazy to type a story...
  18. Well their F-14 sheet with the early VF-103 Jolly Rogers scheme and VF-213 CAG bird features the glow-in-the-dark slime lights. I didn't notice that until I switched my room lights off and was leaving the room and went back for something. Laying on the bench, I noticed that the decal sheet looked odd and realized, hey they're glowing! Neat! Well, to keep the glow I just keep the decals in the dark. Don't know how long these things will phosphoresce but for now, they stay in a dark box. B)
  19. Go watch the movie, Top Gun. There you will find some help on how to make your lights blink. As for the glow-in-the-dark formation lights, CAM makes one in 1/48 (I have the VF-103 and VF-213 sheet) but don't know if they make a 1/32 set. Hope that helps!
  20. Check out the offical USN website and do a search for VFA-106 or F/A-18 and you'll find what you need in photos.
  21. Reading the responses from the other posts, my best opinion on 1/48 scale Sidewinders would be to kit bash them! I like the AIM-9L/M(?) missiles provided in the Monogram F-15A/C kits, yes the old Eagles! They look pretty good. Will need modification a bit, especially on the rear wings. The control vanes in front are pretty thin and look accurate. Another choice? The Sidewinders that come in the Hasegawa Harrier kits. As a "new mold", these missiles are by far the best that Hasegawa's made lately. The previous AIM-9s found in their F-16 kits are a joke. The control vanes are pretty thick! Th
  22. Check out the Eduard photo-etch set for the Revell-Monogram F-14D. You will find the HUD in that set. :D
  23. I have the wingfold instruction sheet. Do you still need it?
  24. I work in a lab and Parafilm M as a modeler is just a scissor cut away... In the lab, the film is used to seal test tubes, Petri dishes, etc. I picked up on this when I was still a lab intern and put one and one together. This stuff will work with my paint bottles! Well, if the solvent is not too strong, the Parafilm will stay intact but once it comes into contact with something like lacquer thinner, it'll dissolve so whatever you do, don't use it to seal a bottle of paint. Well, for long periods of course. If ordering from a lab supply place, ask if they will sell you a roll for cheap. Tell
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