Jump to content
ARC Discussion Forums


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by ChippyWho

  1. Utterly amazing! The thing looks like it should actually fly...
  2. I have now! Thank you for sharing this excellent news -not a part-work issue this time either, from the looks. (But how a Bf109 etched set is a 'Related Item', I'll never know...)
  3. These are some of my favourite markings on anything that ever carried them! But as far as I can tell, decal printers seem to have a fight with the light blue colour (the Xtradecal effort for the Dart in 1/72 is...bizarre). IMO, The Expert's Choice set for the Eagle looks by far the most accurate and is well worth having.
  4. Absolutely -one of the items I naffed up was from an OOP kit, but Eduard still got me one!
  5. You could do worse than trying Eduard's Support service -on two occasions now they have replaced parts entirely FOC when it was MY fault I lost the darn things! I tried to at least pay shipping, but they wouldn't have any of it. Click the little green tag at the bottom right, send a message and see what happens...
  6. Only a fool, an absolute fool, would not want to follow this...and I pity that fool!
  7. The rear section (Part #R1) of the Eduard ones looks like an absolute witch to clean up -the resin 'plug' sits right inside the front edges of the fins... I'd steer clear of anything in two sections anyway; the Tamiya ones are probably worth buying the Block 25 kit for!
  8. Indeed they do, and it contains many fine items. Their service is excellent, and if your package is like mine it will arrive all wrapped in brown paper and proper string!
  9. Diluted ammonia-based cleaner ('Windex', I believe, in North America) will make short work of removing the old paint/Future. Just apply & remove carefully and you shouldn't damage the plastic. To remove any scratches/marks from that process I recommend the suite of polishes by Tamiya, working through to the very finest one -or, so I'm told, regular toothpaste!!! The last thing I airbrushed with Tamiya clear was an HUD reflector; it worked out OK with much the same procedure you described...at the second attempt. Because, unless you keep the paint jar thread and plastic cap absolutely sterile, tiny flecks of paint will dry therein to a weird, crispy solidity. Next time you open the jar, they will come loose and fall into the paint -the airbrush will spit them out as diminutive pellets that will show up on your lovely clear transparency. And it all looks a lot like the one in the photo!
  10. I have the 1/72 Su-34 sets; tentative test-fitting would support the dimensional accuracy of most parts for the Italeri plastic. The account of an actual installation can be found here...the Good Bit starts on Page 2. (Would it not have been easier to shrink the real thing?!)
  11. Zvezda indeed, as is the recent Academy boxing, which has a few p/e bits thrown in IIRC. For some reason, in Europe the original usually retails for a LOT less than either re-pop! Wonder if that goes for North America too?
  12. Interesting subject; sorry to hear the RAF is pulling the plug on theirs... Will watch this one's becoming with much interest!
  13. Heh -saw the title & thought 'Ridge Racer Type IV'!
  14. Can't see owt but a sort of grey 'No Entry' sign!
  15. They are absolutely fine; I use them on a few things with Lifecolor thinner and never had any grief. Masking a fairly simple splinter pattern on Revell's little Go 229 (Tamiya yellow tape, no primer) suffered no pull-ups. Coverage was good and various washes/filters did no harm at all. I understand thinning ratios can be an issue, but roughly 60 thinner/40 paint on a mild, dry day seemed to airbrush nicely for me. HTH
  16. Oh HELL Yeah!!! That pesky gap in my 1/48 (un-built) Navy collection is going doooowwwwn...
  17. This is why I LOVE Scooters!
  18. Great to see a few uncommon variants of my favourite jet appearing on the forums here and there now -this is a superb example!
  19. ...Oh HELL no -never sprayed the stuff in me life! It levels itself out, so just use a soft, flattish brush slightly moistened with water and apply sparingly with slow strokes -this will avoid bubbles forming. Come back 20 minutes later and it's all smooth and satiny. If you'd rather spray it, I heard tell that it's best done at really high pressure (maybe as high as 30-40 psi!) and sort of wafted on from a safe distance while the airbrush is kept moving swiftly back and forth across the target area. As to 'proper' colors, I usually fudge up something that looks vaguely like the best photos I can find. But then I have a largish drawer-cabinet stuffed with all manner of paints accrued over the years -wonder how they all got there...?! (Something to do with being unable to leave a model store empty-handed!)
  20. With its erm, distinctive design, would it not look fab in heavily weathered/faded SEA colors with bright red extremities? Voila: a QF-107!
  21. Really the seat belt protocol is down to whatever you find easiest -for unprinted ones, I think I'd go for attachment then painting. You probably know this already, but any detail painting is best achieved by doing the base color first, then sealing with Future/Klear when it is fully dry. The belts (or whatever) can then be painted with enamels and any stray paint can be wicked off with a pointy brush slightly (very slightly!) moistened with clean white spirit, ideally before it dries completely, without affecting the base paint. Also, if you have a super-pointy brush, where applicable you can carefully remove the enamel from the metal fittings, so you don't need to paint them. A bit of outlining/profiling with artist's oils or whatever, then final clear finish of your choice and you're done. *One thing I just learned the painful way* is NOT to use Revell enamel thinner instead of white spirit for clean-up -danged stuff chewed right through the enamel, the Klear barrier, the acrylic base color and looked like it was gonna take out half the bare resin underneath! FWIW, I've pretty much given up on metal harnessware anyway -it is almost impossible to get it to drape convincingly, although I haven't yet sampled Eduard's newish thin steel items. I tend to go for resin seats with everything cast in, or attach narrow masking tape (jammydog.com has a selection of PVC or paper types) with superglue at the ends. Then I scalpel off the fasteners/adjusters from etched ones and stick 'em at strategic points! I can't replicate the lovely stitching on printed ones, but you can rarely see much of that on most real ones anyway, and the colors used by Eduard always look a bit weird to me... Have fun!
  22. I dunno either! I just pushes the button, guv'nor...but even with it totally switched off, all I get is 'This site can't be reached' on Chrome. My ANDROID phone, however, cracks it without a murmur -go figure! Now, I'm sure I saw Firefox (not the movie) in one of the drawers on this PC...will give that a shot too.
  23. Interesting...! (In deference to the sensibilities of fellow ARC connoisseurs, I won't share my tempera on gesso FW 190.)
  • Create New...