Jump to content

Fly-n-hi

Members
  • Content Count

    806
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by Fly-n-hi

  1. Hi guys. I didn't get a whole lot done this year. I ended up being very busy with work and I think I'm just a slow builder anyway.

    Anyway, here's 2013:

    1/48 Hasegawa Mitsubishi F-2A 6sqn 50th Anniversary:

    file-5.jpg

    file-2.jpg

    file-12.jpg

    file-18.jpg

    1/200 Hasegawa Delta Airlines Lockheed L-1011

    file-1.jpg

    file-5.jpg

    file-2.jpg

  2. What a nasty way of imposing your own opinion: talking down others who don't think the same by disagreeing with them before someone even said something like that. Yuck.

    Fact is that he created a machine that's designed for one sole purpose which is killing people. If it wasn't for the money anyway he should have kept with the lawnmowers.

    You need to step back and take a deep breath. Toadwbg didn't say anything inflammatory. You're the one who's turning this into an argument.

    But for the sake of curiosity...what point are you making exactly? Are you suggesting that Kalashnikov is a mass murderer because people use a gun he designed to kill other people with it? Is John Moses Browning a mass murderer? If I design a car and somebody uses it to commit a crime am I complicit in that crime?

    How about this: If I use an AK-47 to protect my family from a murderer does that make Kalashnikov a savior or a saint?

    Please clear this up for me.

  3. Like white Wolf says...definitely wear some kind of respirator when cutting the resin. The dust is bad for you.

    • Wash the parts with soapy water. The resin parts have mold release agents on them. This can keep the base paint from sticking.
    • Test fit the part into the model. With cockpits you very often have to file down the outside of the pit to get it to fit into the fuselage parts. Take your time with this step.
    • I recommend priming the parts with somthing that'll really bite into the resin. This way your base colors will bite into the primer. Some paints don't stick to the resin very well.
    • You'll have to use CA glue or epoxy resin to glue resin parts together or to kit plastic.

    Hope this helps.

  4. Thanks for all the nice comments guys!

    Frank, thanks! And I'm actually aware of that. I made several anti collision lights using drops of Micro Krystal Clear but only one looked good enough to apply to the model. I also have 2 more antennae to put on the lower fuselage and I just haven't done it yet. I actually finished this model the day before the local IPMS contest and decided to leave well enough alone.

    Mike, thanks. The decals are Liveries Unlimited which is long since out of business. You can still find the decals BUT you have to buy 2 sheets! 1 sheet doesn't have enough striping to go all the way to the end of the tail! I discovered this during the decaling process of course. Maybe there are other sheets out there that are better, like Flightpath Decals?

  5. ooh kill em

    that's a great model. What was your painting process?

    Thanks Ace!

    The first time I painted it I primed the model with Tamiya grey primer, painted the Lizard camo with Tamiya Acrylics, sprayed on Future, decaled it and sprayed on Mr. Super Clear flat.

    The second time, after I stripped it with 91% alcohol and windex I:

    -Primed it again with Tamiya grey primer

    -Pre-shaded with black

    -Painted the nose black and masked it

    -Applied the dark ghost grey thinly. The light grey is actually very weathered.

    -Masked all the tiger stripes. This took about 15 hrs!

    -Painted the dark grey tiger stripes

    -Touched up the mistakes (there were plenty)

    -Painted the gear wells white and vents black

    -Brushed on the Liquitex gloss varnish. I brushed on about 5 or 6 very thin coats

    -Painted the exhaust shroud area

    -Decaled it using Micro Set

    -Washed some of the panel lines with dark oil paint This kit had mostly raised panel lines.

    -Brushed on the Liquitex flat varnish

    -The flat Liquitex varnish was leaving brush strokes so a sprayed it on instead (I don't think I thinned it enough)

    -Post shaded some of the worn out areas

    -Made some hydraulic stains with brownish oil paint (this works well over a flat finish)

×
×
  • Create New...