Fly-n-hi
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Posts posted by Fly-n-hi
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I like it!
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You need to step back and take a deep breath. Toadwbg didn't say anything inflammatory. You're the one who's turning this into an argument.What a nasty way of imposing your own opinion: talking down others who don't think the same by disagreeing with them before someone even said something like that. Yuck.
Fact is that he created a machine that's designed for one sole purpose which is killing people. If it wasn't for the money anyway he should have kept with the lawnmowers.
But for the sake of curiosity...what point are you making exactly? Are you suggesting that Kalashnikov is a mass murderer because people use a gun he designed to kill other people with it? Is John Moses Browning a mass murderer? If I design a car and somebody uses it to commit a crime am I complicit in that crime?
How about this: If I use an AK-47 to protect my family from a murderer does that make Kalashnikov a savior or a saint?
Please clear this up for me.
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Thank you, Els!Great job. The aggressor scheme looks like it belongs on the F-20.
Els
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Fantastic! I love the look of the L-39.
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Like white Wolf says...definitely wear some kind of respirator when cutting the resin. The dust is bad for you.
- Wash the parts with soapy water. The resin parts have mold release agents on them. This can keep the base paint from sticking.
- Test fit the part into the model. With cockpits you very often have to file down the outside of the pit to get it to fit into the fuselage parts. Take your time with this step.
- I recommend priming the parts with somthing that'll really bite into the resin. This way your base colors will bite into the primer. Some paints don't stick to the resin very well.
- You'll have to use CA glue or epoxy resin to glue resin parts together or to kit plastic.
Hope this helps.
- Wash the parts with soapy water. The resin parts have mold release agents on them. This can keep the base paint from sticking.
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What exactly do yo want to do? Are you asking about wheels? Cockpits? Painting? Removing from their mold blocks? What kit?
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Daryl and Aggressor,
Thank you!
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Excellent! Nice exhaust stains.
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Finished the year with a bang! Nice work!
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Nice builds!
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Thanks for all the nice comments guys!
Frank, thanks! And I'm actually aware of that. I made several anti collision lights using drops of Micro Krystal Clear but only one looked good enough to apply to the model. I also have 2 more antennae to put on the lower fuselage and I just haven't done it yet. I actually finished this model the day before the local IPMS contest and decided to leave well enough alone.
Mike, thanks. The decals are Liveries Unlimited which is long since out of business. You can still find the decals BUT you have to buy 2 sheets! 1 sheet doesn't have enough striping to go all the way to the end of the tail! I discovered this during the decaling process of course. Maybe there are other sheets out there that are better, like Flightpath Decals?
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Hi guys. I finished this one back in October but never took any pics of it. Hope you enjoy it...
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Nice stuff!
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Nice work!
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Here's a link to the real F-5 that has the paint job:
I took some artistic liberty in applying the stripes.
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Thanks Ace!ooh kill em
that's a great model. What was your painting process?
The first time I painted it I primed the model with Tamiya grey primer, painted the Lizard camo with Tamiya Acrylics, sprayed on Future, decaled it and sprayed on Mr. Super Clear flat.
The second time, after I stripped it with 91% alcohol and windex I:
-Primed it again with Tamiya grey primer
-Pre-shaded with black
-Painted the nose black and masked it
-Applied the dark ghost grey thinly. The light grey is actually very weathered.
-Masked all the tiger stripes. This took about 15 hrs!
-Painted the dark grey tiger stripes
-Touched up the mistakes (there were plenty)
-Painted the gear wells white and vents black
-Brushed on the Liquitex gloss varnish. I brushed on about 5 or 6 very thin coats
-Painted the exhaust shroud area
-Decaled it using Micro Set
-Washed some of the panel lines with dark oil paint This kit had mostly raised panel lines.
-Brushed on the Liquitex flat varnish
-The flat Liquitex varnish was leaving brush strokes so a sprayed it on instead (I don't think I thinned it enough)
-Post shaded some of the worn out areas
-Made some hydraulic stains with brownish oil paint (this works well over a flat finish)
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Here's what it was going to be before I screwed up the finish:
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Ha! Thanks alot! I like that animation in your sig.AWW HELLZ YEAH!
That is one really nice jet!
That was a nice thing to say. Thank you very much.That is HOT!!! Certainly one of the best air builds of the last 12 months for my money; everything is really sharp. The scheme and markings are resplendent. Many thanks for showing this beauty!
Thanks. I tried something new with this build. I brushed on Liquitex Acrylic Gloss Varnish. I gave the model a glass like finish and the TwoBobs decals really sat down well over it. Then I brushed/sprayed on the Liquitex Flat Varnish to seal them in.Very nice build and the markings look very natural.
Thank you!Sweet build!, love the scheme!
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Nice. Swap meets are a source of good deals, too!
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We have a 757 with something like 96,000 hrs on it.Spent some time reading the thread on this subject on the airliners.net civil aviation forum. I'm a helo guy, so I was amazed that the incident a/c had over 100,000 flight hours on it. I know, its the cycles that are the real fatigue inducer on airliners, like the Aloha Air 737 that lost the top of the fuselage.
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Yeah, but like falcon, said its a great one!As usual, ONE!
I don't know how some of these guys build 25 or 30 models a year. That's like a full time job!
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Here's a few more:
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Here's my latest. Its a 1/48 Monogram F-20 that I just finished. It was originally developed as the F-5G but was later changed to the F-20 hence the title of the thread.
I've been working on this kit off and on now for about 15 months. I started it for a group build in the Finescale Modeler forums but I wasn't even close to making the deadline.
Originally it had the USAF aggressor "lizard" scheme on it but I ruined the finish when I applied the flat coat. Apparently, Mr. Super Clear Flat and Future don't get along. After I ruined it I decided to go with a different aggressor scheme, stripped it and started over.
This kit is built mostly OOB except for:
-The HUD is scratch built
-I lost the nose gear door and scratch built a replacement
-The anti collision lights on the tail are scratch built
-The inert AIM-9 is from the spares box
-The AN/APX-95 is from the Hasegawa weapons set
-The decals are TwoBobs decals
-The gun barrels are scratch built from brass tubing
-The wingtip missile rails are from a Tamiya F-16 kit
-I added a Hydraulic line to the nose gear
Just kidding, BTW. I love it when people say "Its mostly OOB except I added ABC and XYZ." Its either OOB or its not folks. Last time I checked the contest rules there was no "mostly OOB" category. Ok...just had to get that of my chest.
Anyway, here it is. Hope you like it!
2013
in The Display Case
Posted
Good stuff! I like the Yak-141. Its something you don't very much.