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Fly-n-hi

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Posts posted by Fly-n-hi

  1. They have a WAR HUD set with three HUDs and an F-16C Block 40 conversion, but neither appear to have the big rear seat HUD. Am I missing something?

    There is a Wolfpack set that just has 3 WAR HUDs in it...nothing else. Sprue Brothers has some.
  2. 1) When the LANTIRN targeting pod is not on the Block 40/42 aircraft, is the mounting rail still there?

    2) I can get a Dr Pepper Resins WAR HUD for the front seat, but where can I find a rear seat HUD repeater in 1/48?

    1. Yes, the pylon can still be attached without the LANTIRN attached. Probably doesn't happen very often but I have seen aircraft in this configuration. Here's a pic: Photo. Its a Block 32 Viper but it still applies.

    2. You could get the Wolfpack set. It comes with 3 WAR HUDs.

  3. Doesn't that kit represent a Pre-Production Viper, like the old Monogram kit?

    I have no idea. I've never actually seen the kit in person and I don't think I've ever seen a build review of it. You're probably right, though.
  4. I wore my Boeing shirt at the Airbus schoolhouse in Miami when I was being brainwashed on the A320 a couple of jobs ago.... I was asked to remove the garment or leave the property.

    I thought it was funny. They didn't.

    Oh well...

    Ha! I'm going to Airbus class next month. I might have to try that (although we do have a dress code).

    To the OP: So what if some people don't like what you wear? Are these people you are trying to impress?

    No matter what you do some people are going to be jerks. That's just how life is. Some people just like to start arguments and cause trouble and there's nothing you can do about it. Just be wise and walk away from them.

  5. That is some impressive work. Those scratch build bays are really precise. How do you get the measurements so accurate?

    The Hornets and Super Hornets just have slotted flaps...not Fowler flaps. Fowler flaps would add alot of weight and complexity to the wing. I noticed in one of your pics you asked if it was correct or not.

  6. Also, if you do get the Revell/Monogram kit take note of the fact that the Revell boxing...the kit that includes the Operation Iraqi Freedom book...also comes with an alternate resin nose to build a night version of the plane.

  7. If you were going to buy a 1/48th Harrier, and you at least wanted the shape right; what would you buy? I'd like to do a British and a Marine bird, so I'm actually thinking two kits. But I'm also open to 1/72 in a pinch, but prefer the quarter scale size.

    gary

    Here's a Revell (Monogram) AV-8B I did a few years ago:

    2009-07-07022.jpg

    I know...its not the best pic. Sorry.

    Overall, the kit's shape is very good IMO. There were a couple of fit issues but nothing too bad. The only major area that needs work are the joints where the completed wing section fits into the fuselage "saddle." And there's a bit of a "seam" inside the intake that you really can't do much about but you have to look for it to see it.

    Also, you have to be careful when installing the main landing gear. It sort of free floats in the fuselage and its up to the builder to position it correctly.

    The cockpit is very lackluster as well. The instrument panels are pretty good but the bang seat is pretty terrible.

    And you can get them cheap. I just picked up one for $6 at a model swap meet and there was a second Harrier available for $8 as well.

  8. tempted to try this.......I use very flat paint, but recently spayed on 7 coats of future, which still only just took some of the matt finish away (certainly not good enough for decals).

    Just to be sure i understand what you're suggesting: you actually apply the decal onto the "wet" future, press down to "squeeze" out the excess future underneath the decal & then apply some setting solution?

    thanks for the tip.

    Do you ever buff the paint? After I spray a very flat paint I rub over it very lightly with 3000+ grit sandpaper to smooth it out a bit. Then the gloss coats work very well.
  9. If someone has mentioned this, I missed it but.....If you were to go through all this, get it all engined up, props spin and all and run the props while the model is hanging from the ceiling. Wouldnt the model around? I'm guessing here but I could see the model moving around possibly causing damage.

    It wouldn't be a problem if you flattened out the props so that they aren't cambered and have zero angle of attack.
  10. If this is your first airbrushing attempt I'd say it looks like you're off to a really good start. Nice job.

    One thing I would say is don't settle. For example, in the second pic, I see that there are some light spots in the OD paint on the wings. I'd say go back over those spots with some OD even though it means that you have to mix paint, wait for it to dry and clean the airbrush again. What I mean is don't settle just because you want to get the kit done sooner or because you want to get to the decaling (the fun parts) sooner. You won't regret putting the extra time into it.

    There are a couple of areas where the masking could have been a little tighter, too. In those cases don't be afraid to touch them up. Since you are using an airbrush now you can spray some tight lines. Practice on an old kit or a piece of cardboard if you aren't comfortable.

    You don't need to drive yourself crazy but correct some of the more glaring mistakes as soon as you see them. You'll be glad you did.

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