Fly-n-hi
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Posts posted by Fly-n-hi
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I like Perfect plastic Putty for things like making the seam where the windshield attaches to the fuselage flush. Its perfect for stuff like that since you can use a moist cotton bud to wipe away the excess and not scratch up the clear parts. I also use Mr Surfacer to fill 90 degree seams like the one where the vertical stab attaches to the fuselage. You can use a cotton bud moistened with isopropyl alcohol to wipe away the excess. Its just a matter of using the right putty for the job.
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I use Mr Color a lot! I typically thin them one part thinner to one part paint. That is usually a good starting point but sometimes the paint is a bit more concentrated. I've had two bottles of the same color where one was thinner than the other.
P.s I personally stay away from CA glues. They can be a challenge to sand flush with the surrounding plastic and since they are harder than the plastic its possible to sand away too much plastic in the process. I have really good results using Tamyia putty. Its my go-to filler.
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You only need to use a gloss black base if you are using high shine paints like chrome, stainless steel, polished aluminum, etc. It ends up being a difficult extra step. Regular metallics are too opaque and the base won't show through. Your choice, though. You do need a flawless surface and you will definitely want to at least polish whatever paint you use.
I recommend using Alclad II primers. They come in grey, black, and white. They are micro fillers, lay down very fine and will give a uniform surface if you are priming over putties and other materials . You can polish them down to a gloss finish, too.
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Incredible work! The cammo looks fantastic!
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Yes. I have a few brands that I have used but the Mona Lisa brand comes to mind right now. They have an Odorless Turpenoid that works very well.
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Try this next time: Start the process by brushing a thin coat of turpeniod onto the surface and then apply the oil dots. This will help the oil paint speed out and dry without leaving edges or borders.
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Fantastic work! How was it getting the gear doors on and flush?
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I've had good results thinning it with lacquer thinner, too. I guess it helps the paint burn chemically bond to the styrene better. I just used the canned thinner from Home Depot.
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I can vouch for the decals, too. They went down very well...
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Or you could get the Brassin AIM-7s. The main fins are separate. Still have to mask the rear fins, though.
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As of this moment, the F-14 for accuracy is Hasegawa, but it still has issues. I've started an HB kit, which has some inaccuracies, but the fit sure is better than Hasegawa. However, I'd wait for the AMK F-14 series to be released. If it's anything like their previous release, it will hands down be the best F-14 out there. The F-15C would be the GWH, the F-15E would be Revell, the F-22 would be Hasegawa (it has some issues, though), and the A-10 is up for discussion. All the available kits have issues.
Hey Darren, I'd say the only real issue with the Hase F-22 is the out of scale panels. Otherwise I think this is a fantastic kit!
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You didn't ask for it but in case you want to know...
F/A-18: I'd say right now Hasegawa makes the best...Legacy or Superhornet. But I think Kinetic is about to release a new Legacy Hornet.
F-16: Tamiya, hands down.
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That intake ramp panel is a nice touch! I like it!
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You may have to wait a bit but I bought a 1/48 Hasegawa F-15C on eBay for $30. Just keep your eyes peeled...
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Does the nozzle set come with the PE "sidewall" parts for the exhaust? If yes, then the nozzle pieces do need to be a bit narrower. Although, yours look really narrow.
I also bought the wheel well set and ended up using the nose wheel bay only. I think it was the only part I used out of the entire set. Total waste of money!
I used the Aires cockpit and after some really minimal trimming it went in very well. If I remember correctly the only part that didn't fit was the part that inserts up into the canopy...so I just used the kit part. I also used the kit HUD because the PE HUD looked way too big to my eyes. I ended up being happy with this set and I'd recommend it.
The Brassin wheels were fantastic and I think you're gonna be very pleased with them!
Here are a a few pics of the Aires cockpit:
Be aware that the Aires cockpit does need the bottom sanded down to make it fit. It bumps against the wheel well part. That can be sanded down as well. Here's a pic of the gap in the fuselage before sanding:
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Here you go...if you can settle for plastic
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This doesn't really answer your question but the Aires F-15C "early" cockpit for the 1/48 Hasegawa F-15C kit was about as close to a drop in cockpit I've ever used. Required almost no modifications. Can't say the same for the F/A-18E for sure, though.
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Cool WIP! Thanks for sharing!
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I have a build on the bench now that used Tamiya Acrylic over Alclad II Grey Micro Filler primer and had no problems.
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I have an unbuilt GWH Mig-29 and I can can tell just by looking at the sprues that this kit is nice! I've never built the Academy kit but it seems like I never hear anything good about it.
As for the price difference...after you buy the Academy kit and all of the AM stuff to fix it you could have just bought the GWH kit instead.
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I'd recommend the poking holes/solvaset method.
What I do is brush some solvaset over the silvering. In your case I'd work small areas instead of trying to fix the entire decal at once. While the solvaset is on the decal gently poke some holes with a fresh #11 blade. You should see the solvaset work its way under the decal. I also use a soft brush and gently brush over the decal after I poke the holes to help force any air out.
Take your time and don't melt the decal.
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I'm still holding my breath for a GWH Su-27.
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That's really nice work! Nice job cutting out the windshield. That must have been a real task!
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I understand and can see why you'd be reluctant. But the problem with the two bottles that you bought afterwards was that they were most likely from the same bad batch as the first bottle. I'd bet my next paycheck that those two "new" bottles were probably sitting on the shelf at the store (or wherever you bought them) for a long time.Because...as I said above...there was a period where they were producing bad batches that never cured. When you would spray the Alclad over it it would melt...ask my Tamiya P-51 about it...oh you can't..I had to throw $150 worth of kit and AM and a couple hundred hours work in the trash.
Alclad has owned up to the bad batch thing..and they will replace bad bottles. However, I've bought two other bottles since that had the same problem. I'm not risking hours of work using it ever again. YMMV.
If you've made up your mind about it that's cool but I'd give it one more try with a bottle that you know is new. I use it and the results are fantastic.
Clear sheet in Aires Resin sets
in Tools 'n' Tips
Posted
What are the clear sheets in the Aires cockpit sets? Is it Acetate? Dura-Lar? Mylar? Anyone know for sure?