Fly-n-hi
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Posts posted by Fly-n-hi
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It's cool. I know that you weren't criticizing me. I was just pointing out that if the paint looked really bad I wouldn't use it. Having the glowing effect is cool but if the colors were incorrect it wouldn't be worth it. Heck, even if it didn't glow I still think this paint looks better than the decals! Once you see it in person you get a way better idea of what the color really is.I wasn't referring to your work at all. I was referring to many builds you see in the gallery which, as you pointed out, are likely decals.
BTW, I really like your F-22. It looks like a super paint job and those slime lights look great to me.
Chuck
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Nice. Never would have guessed it was a snap kit.
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Thanks.That looks very very sweet....I'm still warming up to the look of the Raptor...it's capabilities are another matter, the things it can do are just awe inspiring!!!.
I'll be the first to admit that I find the F-22 kinda boring looking. It just seems like the 70's and 80's generation of aircraft were so much more interesting. I'd say that the F-15 is way more eye catching than the F-22, but that's just my opinion. The planes coming out today look way too computer generated and geometric.
Although, the last air show I went to had an F-22 demo and I enjoyed watching that more than I enjoyed the Thunderbirds.
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The glow-in-the-dark paint that I use glows greenish but it appears yellowish under normal lighting. Like I said above it is almost an exact match of the color you see on the real lights (Trust me, I looked a many reference pics to see how they should look). Plus, you can weather it down with a wash or with pastels.Although these lights look very cool in the dark, I would caution that many slime lights on models look way too intense and therefore unrealistic at scale. From a distance of, say, 50 feet from the real deal, you can hardly tell the true color of many formation lights, which appear to be faded yellow. Only up close at 8 feet can you see the greenish color properly.
This of course is an over-generalization and there are many exceptions, but you get the point. Any pics of this paint in bright light?
Not to sound like a jerk, honestly, but if it had an ecto plasm green color to it do you really think I'd put it on my builds? Heck no! If anything I'd say that the decals looked more unrealistic. They're a bright yellow color! The GITD paint has a built in faded look to it when it dries, too. Here's how it looks on the F-22 in bright light:
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Thanks for the compliments guys. I appreciate them.
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You really can't see them glow under normal lighting. Then again, you can't see the real ones in daylight either. But they do match the color of the real slime lights almost exactly.How does it look under full lighting conditions? Dark looks great.
I can't tell you how many times I've walked by them at night and shined my light on them. Sure, its a little cheesy, but they look so convincing in the dark and in low light.
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Not to sound negative or discouraging but be prepared to spend some $$$. I just saw a Revell 1/144 767-300 go for $35 on eBay and that's the cheapest one! The A330 will probably run you at least $70 and the A310 will most likely be in the $70 range as well...if you can find one.
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You didn't really do anything wrong with the pastels but you can't cover the pastel powders with any kind of clear coat. You have to do the powders after your final clear coat. Or you could try to do some of the weathering with an airbrush.
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I just finished this Academy 1/48 F-22 today. Here she is with the glow-in-the-dark paint slimelights:
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Thanks Warthog. Here's a couple more pics in the daylight:
...and my glowing slimelights:
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Here's a few more pics:
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Hi everybody. I just finished this Academy 1/48 F-22A Raptor. I've actually started this kit back in November or October but I got bored with it and put it in the closet. Well, I decided to go ahead and get 'er done.
This build is OOB except for the metal foil seat belts that I scratched for it. The kit is very simple and the fit was mostly excellent. The intakes are a PITA but oh well.
Hope you enjoy:
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I could be wrong but I think that it only comes with one. You'd have to get somebody's unused engine anyway.
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That's pro. Nice job.
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I've got a few more. I called this the 'Fly-n-hi effect" because I thought I was the only person who did it...not to sound cocky. I should mention that this is the glow in the dark paint and not the stickers. The first pic was a Hasegawa 1/48 F/A-18F.
Here's a blurry pic of my Hasegawa 1/48 F-14A:
...Monogram 1/48 AV-8B:
...Academy 1/48 F-15E:
and a Hasegawa 1/48 F/A-18C:
Building an F-22 that will get the Fly-n-hi effect tomorrow.
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That's nice. Seeing a good build like this makes me want to try to build one.
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This is how mine turned out:
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...looking at it makes me wonder what it was that caused it to lose in the flyoff with the Raptor?
Politics. Lockheed Martin did a better job of sucking up than Northrop Grumman did.
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That's an awesome build. You really did a nice job. If I may suggest something...fix the canopy so that its lines up correctly. It seems that it is leaning over to the left a little bit. I noticed that all of your head on photos are off by a few degrees to compensate for this.
Should be a very easy fix.
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Nice job!
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Thanks again guys.
I fixed the canopy so that its in the correct position. The directions aren't clear about its final position and if you attach it the way the parts "lead" you to do it it looks funny...like its suspended in mid air. I just looked at some photos on the web.
Here's the fix:
Here's how it was:
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Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments.
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Hi people.
I've been a long time lurker of these forums but I wasn't able to get on with my old email address for some reason. I got another email and now I'm here. So I figured a good way to introduce myself would be to share this 1/48 Revell EF-2000 that I just finished.
This was an ok kit. The fit was mostly good but the trouble spots were pretty time consuming. The dorsal "spine" and the air brake needed alot of work to make them seamless. Same with the intake and the intake mouth. They can be made seamless, of course, but it takes a bit of effort to do it.
The kit is pretty much OOB. I cut out the APU exhaust and added a small styrene tube to give it some depth. I also cut out the leading edge slats and filled in the space with some styrene strips. And finally, I added scratch build seat belts made from metal foil tape. The main colors are Mr. Color paints.
Thanks for looking!
Removing parts from the sprue
in Tools 'n' Tips
Posted
It seems to me that even with a nice sharp pair of sprue cutters you will sometimes still get the the problem you are having. One way to avoid it is to cut the piece off so that you leave a little bit of sprue on the piece. Then all you have to do is sand it down. Its easier to sand a little bit of sprue off than fill up a cut mark.