Fly-n-hi
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Posts posted by Fly-n-hi
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Thanks for the comments guys! I went to the auto store and found a bottle of the stuff that RR recommends. I'll try that before I do anything else and see how it works. That stuff is called Bleache-Wite for anyone interested. It looks like some kind of de greaser for white walled tires.
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Triarius, yes, I do rinse them thoroughly and scrub them with a tooth brush while rinsing them off to make sure that there is no residue in any of the crevices. And no, I've never detected any odors coming from the parts. Its strange. Like I said earlier this only happens with Royale Resin...not any other brands.
I have noticed, too, that the resin the RR parts use appears to be better quality...or at least it appears harder and glossier. So maybe it is because of the type of resin? I don't know.
Now I will admit that there is a recommended cleaner in the instruction that I have not used. I will try it next (its some automotive bleach I think) but it seems like these cleaners that I have been using should have done the trick.
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This has happened with just about every set of Royale Resin wheels.
First, I soak the parts in Fantastic Max Grease Cleaner by Johnson for a few hours and then clean the parts off with soapy water. Then I prime with Mr Resin Primer. Then I paint Mr Color Tire black over that. But when I cut out masking rings to paint the hubs the rings peel the paint off down to the bare resin. I do this same process with all resin parts including Brassin and Aires and I don't have any adhesion problems with those brands.
What is different about Royale Resin and what can I do to get adhesion? Would enamel paint stick better? Do I need a different cleaner? This is a shame because Royale Resin wheels are fantastic! Any help is appreciated!
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Excellent work! She turned out nice!
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The interior color is Tamiya White with a drop of Buff or some other light brown color. In the deep part of the exhaust (can't see in the pics) I use Alclad II Jet Exhaust to make the burnt streaks coming from the afterburner. Sometimes I'll use some black or smoke colored pigments to make it instead of the Alclad II...just depends what mood I'm in.
The dirty part you can see is done with either the Tamiya Weathering Sets or Mig Pigments. I use an eye shadow applicator to "smear" it on to the raised detail.
That's it. There really isn't much to it.
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I typically use an off white color and add the dirtiness with pigments. But I get the best results by far when I use resin exhaust nozzles simply because they have raised detail inside. The pastels can really make those details pop out. There are guys who can do it way better than me but heres how some of mine turned out:
Here's a 1/48 Hasegawa F-2A with the Shull24 resin exhaust (unfortunately, Shull24 closed down. Hull's exhausts were the best by a mile!):
Here's a 1/48 Revell F-15E with Aires exhausts:
These are Aires exhausts that will be going on a 1/48 Hasegawa F-15C that I'm currently building:
Here's a 1/48 Tamiya F-16C with the OOB exhaust. Looks much less interesting I think:
These could be better, of course.
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Cool thread! Very interesting! Thanks for all the info and links!
I built up a couple of the Pave Knife pods from the Hasegawa Weapons Set C in both the Navy and AF colors. I never actually used them I just though it would be cool to build them:
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I don't know which kit you are building but the 1/48 Hasegawa F-15C kit has full length intakes that are separate parts. These intakes attach at just about the correct depth where the white area should start and no masking is needed (might be off by just a little bit). The 1/48 Revell F-15E also has intakes but the parts attach very close to the opening so there needs to be some masking inside.
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I might try MM Lacquer Flat Coat mixed with a drop of clear yellow.
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So what paint are you going to use? Does sombody make that color?...and that's the color I'm painting my kit! -
Thanks Murph! Do you happen to know what a typical load out would be for the jets that were armed? 4 AIM-9s and 4 AIM-7s? 2 and 2?
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Thanks!36375 gray
Visually, the easiest way to tell the two apart was that the F had two target detecting device (TDD) 'strips' along the side of the front of the missile aligned between the wings while the M had four aligned with the wings.
I'm actually up to speed on the differences I'm just not totally sure which ones the '82-'83 Bitburg F-15s would have carried. Probably the -Ms but not certain.
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Good to know. Thanks!
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The AIM-7F entered service in 1976, and the AIM-7M in 1982. I don't know, but I wouldn't be surprised if NATO units got the upgraded missiles first, given that they were the sharp end of the stick facing the USSR. I'm not sure there was much external difference in any event.
Thanks! Thats pretty much what I read when I was looking for answers..that it was the transition period from the F to the M. It does make sense that the front line squadrons would get the better equipment first so its probably a safe bet to put some -Ms on the one I'm building.
What about the colors? Would they be white or grey in 1982? Were the -Ms always grey?
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What model of AIM-7 Sparrow would the F-15Cs have carried in Bitburg around 1982-83? Appreciate it!
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I've been hoping for a new tool Hornet....just not from Kinetic.
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Great video! Thanks for sharing! The tip about the colored pencils was really good.
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Great work! Makes me want to bust out my Academy Phantom!
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Awesome! I have one of these in the stash. This is inspirational. Thanks for sharing!
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Great build!
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Fantastic! She's a real beauty!
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I think that the decal sheet is suggesting that you apply the decal to the lower part of the wing. See how the decal is actually on the left wing but its out in space by the right wing? I'm pretty sure that means it goes on the other side of what is pictured. I could be wrong, of course.Thank you guys for your comments!
@falcon20driver
What's on your bench? Any plans for new project?
@Collin
Glad to hear that :)/>. I switched from Vallejo to Tamiya, and it seems that for some reason darkening is more apparent on the latter...
As for my Tomcat, I'm one small step closer to finish line :)/>
Since I'm getting closer to the decal application, I have a question to the experts out there. Fightertown Decals instruction sheet seems to be showing national insignia on both wings. Is this correct for Victory's 100 last cruise??
Excellent build so far, by the way!
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Nice pics! Thanks for posting this. Did you get any good pics of the hot sections of the engines?
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Excellent!
Any good base for Alclad, other than acrylic?
in Tools 'n' Tips
Posted · Edited by Fly-n-hi
Why wouldn't you just use their own Alclad II Gloss Black Base? I use it and it works great.
Its almost too simple I guess?