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Fly-n-hi

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Posts posted by Fly-n-hi

  1. Since the Block 40s carried the navigation pods under the chin they blocked the lights on the landing gear. So they moved the lights forward to the nose gear door. That's one of the more noticeable differences between Block 30s and 40s.

    Also, I believe the tires are larger on the Block 40s. As a result the Block 40s have bulged gear doors.

  2. I used Alclads Titanium Gold AFTER a future coat was fully cured. I know, I know - never a 'hot' paint over a delicate surface, but with mist coats it was fine, especially (thanks to the future) when I got it too dark the 1st attempt - with ammonia the future came off with the gold in tow. 2nd attempt much lighter, one pass and it looks great. Whichever route you pick leave the windscreen clear...

    Be careful using this technique. The Alclad II is not transparent and even with light coats it will "fog" up the canopy just a little bit. I've tried this on some spare canopies myself so I know this for sure.
  3. Not quite long haul, but 737's and A320's have been used on trans Tasman and Pacific routes (1200+ miles) for years. Air New Zealand was an ETOPS pioneer IIRC with the B767 on Pacific routes in the mid 80's.

    TWA was the first airline to use a 767-200 on ETOPS flights from St. Louis to Frankfurt. Air New Zealand may have been the first in the Pacific/Asia.
  4. For really vibrant realistic looking wing tip lights try Delta glass paint. It's used for making stained glass windows so its translucent. All you have to do is put down a base silver color then a blob of the Delta after the silver is dry. Goes on looking awful but when it dries...taa daa perfect lights. Oh..and it's water based so clean up is easy.

    You can find it in most craft stores.

    Rob

    Do you have any pics? I'd like to see it in action before I go out and buy it.
  5. I'm going to be that guy.

    Great. At least you're willing to admit it.

    I was tempted to call you out for dropping the nazi bomb, it was rude and uncalled for.
    Not at all. Forum Nazi is a common internet term. Hardly rude or uncalled for in this case.
    And "Chill out bro"??? Seriously? You don't think that was a little uncalled for as well?
    I've got some news for you partner but some of us talk like that. Its not offensive. Maybe its a tolerance issue on your end.
    Benner was in no way out of line suggesting that the same items could be asked for in the Spare Parts forum and his post was not foggy in the least.
    Whoa...easy there chief. I didn't say he was inappropriate. I said he was being a forum Nazi. Why reply to my post and not to the original post that something could be posted in the spare parts forum? Its a bit selective. I don't do this to people and I don't appreciate it being done to me.
    Had you said "I'm sorry" when Benner replied, defending himself (when he shouldn't have had to), that would have ended the conversation.
    I have nothing to apologize for.
    The only possible reason you might have to get upset is if you were the guy trying to pawn the parts on Ebay, and even then using the nazi bomb would have been uncalled for.
    Uh really? there are a million reasons why. How about the fact the I was just trying to post a possible alternative? Yeah, you might want to think that through a bit more. Geesh! I try to be helpful and this is what I get.
    Your posting the comment on a public forum makes it the business and concern of anybody that reads your comments.
    Says the fool. Do you jump into arguments in public? Let us know how that works out for you. Thanks for pouring even more fuel on this fire.

    Ok. Here's the original reply. Let's look at this.

    those are from the Hasegawa set of course,...

    Of course. No argument here.

    ...if one needs those, just a simple post in the Spare Parts forum will do.
    For all of you defending Brenner here...please explain to me how this is nothing less than some "you need to post this in another forum" type of response in the context of my original reply. Clearly this is an insinuation that my reply was inappropriate...which is not the case based on the context of the original post...which was basically an advertisement for some resin parts in the first place. People that do this are forum Nazis, plain and simple.

    Maybe you have decided to take Brenner's side on this, and that's your choice to do so of course, but my point is completely valid and correct and you are wrong. He was ambiguous when he said that "just a simple post in the Spare Parts forum will do."

    In any event, only Brenner can answer this and the rest of you have no clue what is really being said here. Maybe your speculation is meant to be entertaining. I don't know. Maybe you're just bored and feel the need to post.

    Yeah... it really wasn't unclear. There was zero fogginess in benner's post. You just twisted it into something negative, then jumped down his throat over it.

    ...and now you're doubling down.

    Nope. If his post had been clear than we would be having this discussion. Sorry, but you're wrong. Doubling down? That makes no sense.

    Any wagers on how long this thread is going to be?

  6. For the Modern Eagle colors, Testors has both colors in their enamil line... They have the dark gray in Acryl, but not the lighter shade. For that I used (approximately) 2 parts flat gull gray and 1 part Euro One gray. In my opinion it was an exact match to their enamil version. I also worked out a really good mixture using Mr. Color (laqure), but I can't remember what ratios I used. I have a general idea though. If you want, I'll mix'em up again when I get home and let you know. The colors I used were: Dark Ghost Gray (#307)and Gunship gray(#305) for the dark gray and Gull Gray (#11) and Dark Gray (#301) for the light gray

    Do you have any pics so we can see the result?
  7. You don't need any if you're building OOB. But if you're adding resin AM stuff then it could affect the CG. I'd add a little bit of weight in the nose to be safe.

  8. Awesome work! The weathering on the underside looks great!

    A gripe if I may...either it is OOB or it is not OOB. There is no such thing as "mostly OOB except for XYZ". Once you add so much as a resin blade antenna it is no longer OOB. (Don't feel bad. You're not the only one who does this.)

    Again...great build. Just nit picking the choice of words.

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