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Joel_W

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Everything posted by Joel_W

  1. Pascal, That's for sure. The 330 P4s were one of Ferrari's best and sexiest for sure. Joel
  2. Pascal, thank you my friend. It's not up to your build standards, but I'm slowly, very slowly getting there. Joel
  3. Chuck, While I've converted to auto modeling these days, I do follow a few builders here, and you're on the top of my list. Just an outstanding tutorial and walk through on painting insignias, numbers, & Letters. Very well done, as well as how easy it is to understand and follow. There's been plenty of times I've tried my best to follow modelers using masks, but more often then not it got confusing to the point that I was just plain lost. Not so this time. Joel
  4. Ben, Thanks for the vote of confidence. My only issue with the kit is the engine covering plate which is 100% fictitious, and looks the part. There is a AM engine for it, but it's sold out. I'm getting their engine for the Fujimi Ford GT40 MK1, but they don't make one for the MkII car. Joel
  5. Startbarfast, Thanks for your thumbs up. It's always much appreciated. Joel
  6. Brian, Please email me your zip code so I can get you a price for shipping. I'm using USPS flat rate boxes. Joel
  7. I'm cleaning out the aircraft kits from my stash, as I've dedicated my retirement modeling to race & classic road cars. All open boxes have the sprue trees still in their sealed bags. Some come with AM parts as listed. Sale and shipping to the lower 48 states only. Shipping is extra. If interested in any of the kits please email me at:jaw101@optonline.net None of these kits are listed on ebay. Method of payment to be worked out at time of sale. thanks, JoelAcademy 1/48 scale P51-B Blue nose. Shink wrapped. Yahu IP. $25Academy 1/48 scale P51-B Blue Nose. Shrink wapped $20Ac
  8. Chuck, I'll be following your stencil adventures with much interest, as I've yet to try them myself Joel
  9. Well, another week and time for my next update on the 330 P4. Since my last update where decaling was finally finished, and the Mr. Hobby/Mr. Color Clear Lacquer applied. I was really happy with how the clearcoat self leveled as I used their proprietary leveling thinner. As expected there is some slight Orange peel, and the shine wasn't as deep as I had wanted. So the final phase of the paint process was about to commence. I very carefully with a lite touch, started to polish out the clearcoat with Tamiya 3,000 sponge wet, and washed off the residue as I went alon
  10. Chuck, Amazing paint work. You truly are a master at it. Joel
  11. Janman, Thank you my friend for that most positive and much appreciated post. Joel
  12. Hey Capt. Always a pleasure to have you stop by. Thanks for the thumbs up. Joel
  13. Ben, So sorry I missed your post. Thanks for sticking in my corner throughout the build. It's much appreciated. Joel
  14. Ben, Thanks for stopping bye, and checking out the 330, it's greatly appreciated. Joel
  15. Being retired does have its pluses, and I've been able to consistently get more time at the bench, and still get my Honey to List chores done on a daily & timely basis. Work concentrated solely on the shell as there was a still plenty to do before priming could take place. There is an abundance of mold seams over the entire shell that had to be removed, as well as finishing up the blending in of the fender mirrors. The final body work was adding the PE front clip winglets that help to provide additional downforce at high speeds. They're actually well thought out as I'm no
  16. Impressive for sure. Must feel really nice to finally cross the finish line with not one, but two builds. Joel
  17. Janman, Thanks for the thumbs up on the pit and seats. Nothing like some Tamiya Black panel wash brushed over the whole seat, then rubbed off. Joel
  18. Capt. let it be known that decaling tires is exactly the same as any model. done right, it's a no brainer. Done wrong, and who knows what they'll look like Joel
  19. John, What a great update!! Your weathering skills using multiple layers and techniques has produced a model that shows a well worn operational aircraft, yet hasn't been taken so far as to look like it's well past it's reliable service ceiling. I'm certainly looking forward to your next and most likely last update. Joel
  20. Slartibartfast, Ferrari was really big on those slates for all their street and road racing cars back in the 60s-70s as a efficient means to move both rear brake hot air and trapped air piling up in the rear of the car. The side skirts which aren't installed to the end of the build also as them as you can see in my signature picture. Joel
  21. Ben, I've tried those weird letter sets from Fujimi, and while I can get them onto the tires, they usually come right off, and look like crap. Joel
  22. Well, another week of work on the 330 P4, and I've got just enough done for an update. I decided that a little break was needed, so getting the 5 tires and wheels ready for installation would be a productive break from the Chassis/pit/suspension. The tires are solid rubber with no side wall detail lettering, but the tread pattern looks pretty good. Since I'm modeling a pre-race version, the tires should be new, hence the molding seam down the middle. Fujimi gives you 4 Gold plated, & 1 non-plated 5 spoke Ferrari type wheels, with knock offs for 4 of them, but
  23. Chuck, I've pretty much standardized paint and procedures for both race cars and aircraft, as they're completely different. Just need to continue to refine them the best I can. I guess I'm pretty lucky as I have not only my own modeling/computer room in the house, but my paint booth and venting system is in that room as well. The house has a 12 month temp control system, so we just set the temp and forget about it. Every room has vents that let your fine tune the heat or Air Conditioning (I'm always cold and my wife is always hot). Humidity is another issue. The house is
  24. Ben, WTG!! I keep on never seeming to get to them, but I will sooner or later. The ChopperMan
  25. Chuck, that's really big bucks. I've read a lot about it. and it's worth every penny for sure in the hands of a master. I use two Grex Genesis XGI air brushes. One with a .3mm setup and one with a .5mm setup. The .5mm setup is for my race car bodies: Primer, color coats, and clear coats. All are true lacquer based paints. Aircraft and detail work is with the .3mm setup. My compressor has duel regulators, so both ABs are always ready to go. Grex also makes a .2mm setup for the Genesis series. I just may try it out. I just thought that it was so close to the .3mm that it's
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