STJohnson

Chuck Do you think you'll eventually mount it on some Marsden matting like the photo?? Will you add any figures if you do?? Steve

Just Amazing,Great Job!!! I'm inspired to build another one myself !!

I had one of the large roundels in the Tamiya 1/32 MK IX kit split on me. I had used cold water & thought that might be it...not sure though. I installed the remainder of the decals using very warm water & had no further problem. I noticed that they released much quicker than with the cold water...so maybe less stress on the decal film sliding it off????? I have since built the Tamiya 1/32 Zero & Mustang & used the kit decals with very warm water & had no problems at all. Tamiya seems to have improved their service dept ,as I had to order some parts I messed up & call

I have had that happen too. I usually just give it another "light" coat of solvaset & it dissapears!

I have a 3 month old MOJO III for sale. I am the original owner. It is based on the Paasche "Talon" airbrush. I have all three nozzle/needle sizes .25.... .38 .... .66 plus a couple of spare .25 needle's all included. The MOJO III sells new for $219 plus accesories. I am selling for $75 plus shipping Thanks Please E-mail sjohnson@augusthome.com

You did a great job!!Just the right amount of weathering. Are you going to mount it to some groundwork?? Maybe a pilot figure?? Steve

Glad to explain Kei Lau. By skipping, I mean the paint coming out of the A/B will start & stop on it's own accord. I should stress that what I'm mentioning here, is when I am spraying very fine details & the trigger is barely engaged. The paint is properly thinned & air pressure is lowered. When spraying more paint the trigger is pulled back more its not an issue at all. The airbrushes you named are of excellent quality & capable of the finest detail, provided you/I have the skill to get the best out of them. I have owned all 3 of those at one time or another. Except for th

Seriously Don, I don't mind at all..but.. I also understand your concern. The offer stands if you change your mind. I just have to say without trying to be a suck up lol! that Mike Learn is a VERY VERY talented artist & I'm sure he can make any A/B do things I could only dream of. Very important to keep this in mind! My ability/experience is ..well... lets just say its ALLOT less LOL!!! Anyway............... Personally, I have had a real struggle getting the MOJO III to work as well as my Richpen. It seems like no matter how I mix my paint/thinner ratio,screw the aircap forward or bac

I have the Richpen MOJO & Love it. I also have the MOJO III. Don if you want I'll loan you the MojoIII & let you do a review on it. You can e-mail me at sjohnson@augusthome.com

Are these the valves on top of the ballast tank?? When I built my 1/72 scale U-boat I used a soldering iron to push them in. You get some plastic oozing out around the PE part but it can be trimmed up well with a knife or small chisel. The PE valve was stuck down good too.

So how hard would I have to beg to get you to make me one of the multi tool?? Its awesome Steve

I am having a little trouble with my 2 Richpen A/B's. Phoenix 213C gravity cup..They are new. They are spraying just great, but as I let up on the trigger, wait a few seconds and then press the trigger again (just down not back) I get a little bit of spitting before the paint starts. I am spraying enamels thinned with mineral spirits. I really try to keep the exposed part of the needle clean, but it still spits often. I also checked that the needle is engaging the end of the nozzle completely. I thought it might be the paint so I switched to a solvent based acrylic and used lacquer thinner.

I have a almost new Peak C5 "Hobo" airbrush for sale: It is a converted Peak C5 airbrush by the artist Mike Learn. http://www.learnairbrushstore.com/ It has been converted to a .2 n/n from a .3n/n and tunedup by mike. It excells at painting extremly fine detail!!! It is more than an equal for the Iwata Micron series. It also has a double cut away handle All of the .3 stuff is included too. You will need to adjust the needle seal as the two needles are different diameters. Its not hard at all. The brush sells for $200 new I am selling for $100 firm + shipping. E-mail sjohnson@augusthome.

I have also used a tiny bit more of the decal setting solution and it vanished quickly! Good luck

Hi David I use either the Tamiya masking tape or the "delicate surfaces" tape from 3M its blue in color. Then I usually stick it on my forearm a couple of times. This lessens the adhesion somewhat. Luckily for me my arms arn't too hairy I have always washed my models first but would still get some peeling so I also started using the "plastic prep" from Testors before priming and was amazed at how little if any paint peel I have now. good luck Steve