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ulvdemon

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Posts posted by ulvdemon

  1. Just wanted to share my build of Hasegawa's F6F-5 in 1/32.  It was enjoyable and my first Navy prop plane in a very... very long time.  Ran into one minor issue dealing with gouging the plastic with my rotary tool, but all in all I am happy with how it turned out, even if the carpet monster ate the first pitot tube and I had to pick up a replacement.

     

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  2. This is a build based off of Hasegawa's IdolMaster boxing of the F-16.  As with all things, I spent more on all of the additions then the actual model.  Fun build, my first Hasegawa kit.  The below was added to the kit for this build or used as a resource:
    ·         The Scale Viper: A Modeler’s Guide to Building the F-16 – Pete Fleischmann
    ·         The Modern Viper Guild, 2nd Edition – Jake Melampy
    ·         Decals: Caracal: USAF F-16C “Dark Vipers” part 4
    ·         Royale Resin: antenna Upgrader Set
    ·         GT Resin 1/48 ALQ-184 ECM Pod & F-16 Wild Weasel Set
    ·         Eduard Sniper Pod

    As with all things, once the build was done I can find were I need to improve, but it is about the experience and it was fun build.

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  3. Everyone,

      Had the chance to start this build 8 years ago as part of a contest.  Got all the way up to the weathering stage waiting for everyone else to start.  I just went ahead and decided to go ahead and finish it and share, so hope everyone enjoys it.

     

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  4. This is a resin kit, made by Multi-Verse Models.  A fun, quick and enjoyable build that I used to practice marbling and black basing.  Enjoy.[:P]

     

    Build Gallery: https://www.flickr.com/photos/191409677@N03/albums/72177720305310516

     

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  5. I believe the version of the kit I have is the prototype version.  It comes with the AMRAAMS and no provisions for the third (inner most) set of pylons.  I might just need to work the AMRAAMS into a close proximation of the Meteor's at this point.

  6. The standard answer of thinning to the consistency of 2% milk works.  For my set up, I usually do about 20-30% thinner to paint, but then I am usually doing thin layers.  There have been times where I will just do only a couple of drops of airbrush thinner to the paint.  The most important thing I have found is to use airbrush flow improver.  The paint does have a tendency to dry at the tip and it does help.

  7. I use Vallejo Air paints for my builds.  Once you figure out the thinning ratio's they spray pretty nice.  I do agree that they can scratch easily but once it is fully cured I've had no issues.  As for being shiny, I haven't noticed, but once I spray a coat of Vallejo Matte finish it toned down alot.

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