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dnl42

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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. I thin all paint (Mr Color, Colourcoat, Humbrol, and Tamiya) to the consistency of 1% milk. Take a look at Alclad consistency. I spray at about 15psi (1 atmosphere). Spray thin coats.
  2. Which paint and what nozzle size? I've had some problems spraying Alclad with a 0.3mm nozzle, so I mostly use my 0.5mm nozzle for metallics. I have no problems spraying regular Mr Color in either 0.3mm or 0.5mm nozzles.
  3. If you can get to the BMW Museum, you can get to the Deutsches Museum via subway.
  4. Don't miss the Deutches Museum in Munich!
  5. That's exactly my use profile! Not sure exactly how long I've had it, but it's been more than a few months.
  6. Mr Color is my favorite paint, so I have tried their Mr Metal Color on some sample parts. Your description of application, buffing, and handling is correct. I haven't yet used it on a model, but I will when the opportunity presents itself. I usually use Alclad for metallic coats. They spray well* (in my 0.5mm nozzle), are robust to masking, decal applications (I use Micro Set and Micro Sol), and take a clear coat well. They are somewhat sheer, so always prime before using them. I use white, gray, and black as undercoats. I use Mr Color C33 Gloss Clear for gloss finishes and Microscale Industries Micro Satin and Micro Flat for semi-gloss and flat coats respectively. For oleo and chromed parts, I recently started using Molotow Liquid Chrome. Their pen applicator is easy to use. Wonderful stuff!!! * The Alclad Chrome is fragile, and will rub off in handling. I've never tried masking it.
  7. I strongly suggest you stick with Mr Leveling Thinner. Use that hardware store stuff for cleaning the airbrush.
  8. I always try my LHS first. After that, I've ordered Mr Color from Spruebrothers, and 2 Ebay sellers: animetropolis and jackrabbit9820. Good experiences with all. @metroman gave excellent advice. Pay attention to technique and Mr Color will provide an excellent finish. The finish is so smooth, I don't usually clear-coat before applying decals over Mr Color or Alclad.
  9. Mr Color is a truly wonderful paint. It sprays on a thin and beautifully smooth coat. So smooth that I don't usually use a clear-coat before decals anymore. But, it's a lacquer. You need good surface prep given the thin coat. I prime with thinned Mr Surfacer 1200 or 1500. It dries quite fast, so I don't find it suitable for brushing. Thin with Mr Leveling Thinner to 1% milk consistency, spray close-in, say 5mm to 45mm. Make sure it hits the surface slightly wet. Build coverage with thin coats.
  10. Nice work on that cockpit! Love the seat. The F4F has an oxygen bottle just aft and slight to starboard of the seat. Do you know if the F6F is similar?
  11. That was indeed a fun topic! Props to the organizers!
  12. @K2Pete. You totally rock, dude!
  13. That worked fine! Oh, and good choice on the Master barrels--they're amazing!
  14. Welcome to the forum! Any model of a Grumman aircraft is obviously a brilliant choice! I'll enjoy following along!
  15. Aw, man! I suppose this was too good to be true...
  16. Wow, this is really good work! Great attention to detail. The ideal complement to your excellent work!
  17. Paint colors from light to dark. Paper masks Print the marking guides from the kit or decal instructions at 1/48 scale and then cut out the different colors as masks. This works great for the surfaces relatively normal to the view, like the wings, stabilizers, and slab-sided fuselage sides/tops. Curved surfaces and transitions between surfaces, such as the upper and lower halves of, say, a Spitfire or Thunderbolt will additional more freehand work because those marking guides only show projections of the pattern onto top, side, and bottom views. You need to adjust the freehand parts until the visually match the views. Next you need to determine if you need hard or soft edges to the camo pattern. For hard edges, I'll double some Tamiya masking tape, put on the bottom of the mask, and attach the mask to the model. For soft edges, I roll out Silly Putty nto ropes, stick the rope to the bottom surface of the patches, and drape the silly-putty+paper masks onto the model. As noted above, the purpose of the Silly Putty rope is to raise the mask, encouraging a soft edge. Try to hold the airbrush normal to the paper for uniform soft edges. @martin_sam_2000 explained the other technique I use. Which method I use depends on the camo pattern, model shape, and my mood... Airbrushing Surface prep is important, so get those polishing pads and make sure the surface is as smooth as possible. Lacquer paints give the thinnest coats and dry very fast. They do not brush well Enamel paints are thicker, and take days to cure. They brush well. Acrylic paints are the thickest coats. They dry quickly too. I use Citadel and Games Workshop acrylics for brush painting details. I prefer Mr Color. It's a lacquer and provides the smoothest, thinnest coats. I always use the paint's airbrushing thinner, so that's Mr Leveling Thinner for Mr Color paints. I also use AlClad paint, which is pre-thinned. Stir the paint well until completely mixed. Thin the paint to the consistency of 1% milk with the manufacturer's thinner. Adjust the airbrush to 14 psi with full air flow (i.e., not static pressure). Spray from 0.25" to 2". Spray very thin coats, building up coverage. The paint should be just wet when it hits the model surface--hence the close-in spraying. If you get orange peel or a powdery finish, you're spraying too far away and the paint is drying before it hits the model. If you need a gloss coat, build coverage with thin coats then apply a final wet gloss coat. Never just blast on a gloss coat. It will be a disaster.
  18. Hm, the CGI looked somewhat cheesy, I mean as in the realism of the rendering, not the action itself. Perhaps I just more readily accept it in mainstream SciFi? IMHO, the best SciFi movie of all time is Arrival. It's quite amazing when you pay attention to the detail. Almost, but not quite, entirely unlike a Star Wars shoot-em-up.
  19. All items in my stash, that may or may not exist, are in a Google spreadsheet. This enables me to check at home or on the road, on my desktop, tablet, or phone. There are tabs for kits, AM, and books. Multiple kits are OK, but multiple copies of the same book is dumb as a post....
  20. I'm currently reading Normandy '44 by James Holland. It's been very inclusive of all sides, both from overall viewpoints during the preparations on both sides to battle-specific comparisons. It's well documented and well written.
  21. Would that Tiger be an F-5 or F11F? The others mentioned give me hope for some 1/48 F11F love...
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