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dnl42

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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. That could be a blockage, especially given the multiple instances, which suggest a problem beyond the airbrush itself. Don's Airbrush Tips is an outstanding and authoritative source of information on airbrushes as well as their care and feeding. In this case, take a look at his Troubleshooting page. FWIW, I always thin paint to the consistency of 1% milk. See more complete info here. HTH -- dnl
  2. I always have a spare needle and nozzle because they're fragile. I've only gone through about 2 for my Iwata HP-TH and Iwata HP-CH airbrushes. Always due to my error. That is, I dropped the needle or damaged the nozzle by pushing too hard on the needle. I went through 3 needles and/or nozzles on my Badger 360, but that was my first decent airbrush and I was even more of a klutz then. It was quite a good airbrush. Not as nice as the Iwatas, but quite good. Knock on wood, the current needles and nozzles in both Iwatas are about 3 years old. I routinely clean the airbrushes after each session. And do a full break-down about twice a year. Ignoring the Aztec. You cite "tip wear out" for the Badger and Paasche Talon as well as the various "cheapy" airbrushes. No cause cited for the Iwata Neo. What does "tip wear out" mean to you?
  3. If you can make your test photo a small enough image, that is, under 100kb (102,400 bytes, it's a computer thing), you can directly upload it to the ARC forum by pressing the "choose files..." link that appears at the bottom of the text box whence you enter a post. Otherwise, you'll need to upload the photo to an image hosting site (I use Postimage at postimages.org, but there are others), get a link from the hosting site ("Share" a "Direct link" in postimage), and then paste that link into your post. My experience suggests you don't post a link from Google photos as the link is difficult to get and eventually becomes stale. Edit: Here's Krylon's page on their "camoflage" colors.
  4. @Mfezi, you identified the real issue with the article. Scientific American is looking for simple explanations. To be sure, this isn't new; it has long been their goal.
  5. When did you order? I can no longer find any evidence of their existence.
  6. Marvelous work! I built Revell's 1/144 kit, and it's a beast compared to other 1/144 aircraft.
  7. No! Masking tape on clear plastic comes off last! For some kits, the clear plastic bits can go on last. This had both
  8. I can absolutely hear your ex honey's admonition to not mess up. Do you know the difference between TINS and "Once upon a time"? A fairy tale starts with "Once upon a time." A sea story starts with TINS.
  9. Equally important, clear coating protects the decals. I install the LG and other sticking-out bits after I've applied the clear coat. I will spot apply clear coat to deal with any unintended shiny spots.
  10. I wonder if there's an age issue here? I built their 1/48 MiG-21MF with the Polish AF 45 Year Anniversary scheme. Per ScaleMates, it's a 2011 boxing. The decals, some of which were quite large, went on beautifully! I used MSI Micro Set and Micro Sol.
  11. My future wife learned English from that show when she emigrated to the US. As she's now a retired rocket scientist, that's quite a positive statement.
  12. One practice I've developed is make sure the airbrush is atomizing well before I pour in the paint. I'll drop 3-5 drops of thinner in the airbrush; I then start with air (no paint) and then slowing pull back on the trigger, increasing the fluid flow. This does 2 things: 1) makes sure there's nothing wrong with the airbrush (clogs, misalignment, &etc), and B) makes sure there's compatible thinner in the brush. Once I load the paint, I'll give a quick full-flow blast of paint. All of this helps ensure there are no surprises when I start spraying.
  13. Congratulations! You've chosen the best paint! Mr Color is my primary paint, by a very large margin. I just posted my airbrushing method in another thread: To answer your other questions. Lacquer only needs to dry. It doesn't need to cure, as enamel does. Parts can be handled relatively quickly, should be no longer than 10m unless you're putting on too heavy a coat. For non-gloss wet coats, 5m is about right. As noted in the above, I mask in 30m to 1h. If I'm misting another color, say for shading where no masking is needed, I'll do that in 10m--about the time to clean out the old color and thin the next color. I use Mr Color Gloss Clear C46, MSI Micro Satin, and MSI Micro Flat. The MSI clears are thinned with water. I've used Solvaset and Mr Mark Softer without issues. For these as well as my usual MSI Micro Set and Micro Sol, I don't glop it on, but I do completely cover the decals.
  14. I do indeed suggest you try. Painting has a strong user-specific aspect to it. For example, I've never gotten anything but a lousy result from Future, so I never use the stuff. Others get brilliant results. Having written that, I get excellent results from Mr Color paints, so my suggestion is their Gloss Black, C2. But, to reinforce my point, Mr Color demand good airbrushing skills to achieve their absolutely amazing results. The cowling is Mr Color gloss red with gloss clear. The rest of the airframe is MSI Micro Satin
  15. Another fun project to follow! @ST0RM, you can indeed pulse the LEDs with a microcontroller, such as these sold my Sparkfun. Of course, if you're going to go this route, spin the prop and correlate its speed with the exhaust LED flashing rates.
  16. Funny, he distinctly said "chin" and labeled the video with the same word. As you point out, however, chine is indeed the correct word. Similarly, he spoke and labeled the video with "thread" instead of the expected "tread".
  17. That may be something you did, or perhaps not. Doesn't matter though. It looks like the canopy is a simple curve. Is that correct? If so, perhaps you could cut a rectangular piece of clear plastic and glue it in place?. You'd only have painted frames unless you tried some decal paper strips or some such.
  18. I have one pin vise that has such a feature. It's from General Hardware, that brand of small tools you find in hardware stores and lumber yards. While the feature is nice, the pin vise itself it only OK. I keep a needle in it and use it as a pin punch and for curve scribing.
  19. Wow, that kit is requiring some serious modeling skills, which you're clearing bringing to bear. Bravo!
  20. Dang! I primarily use the small end. Holds my #80 bit just fine.
  21. Starrett are indeed outstanding pin vises. I have this Walthers double-ended pin vise. It has a good feel and it very well balanced.
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