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dnl42

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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. There's a Mr. Base White 1000 that i will use under white or yellow base coats. They clean up well. Don't forget, you're thinning it too the same consistency as paint (see above). Use regular hardware store lacquer thinner for cleaning. Mr. Color Leveling Thinner (MLT) is their thinner plus their leveling agent to slow down drying-- this is part of the magic that is Mr Color.
  2. I'm all Mr Color, so as @Brenhen wrote, I use Mr Surfacer thinned with MLT. I thin and apply identically as Mr Color paint. Thin to consistency of 1% milk. Full flow air pressure at 15 PSI (1 atm). Spray at 0.25 to 1.75 in. Should be slightly wet when it hits the surface; use a grazing light to see. Dries very quickly and should be very smooth. BTW, I always prime. HTH -- dnl
  3. Brengun now produces some 1/48 Mk 24 FIDO mines that you could put into the bomb bay instead of the torpedo. Unless you're going to show ordnance off to the side, you'll need to choose what gets mounted.
  4. Welcome aboard! The best way to find out about real conditions for the TBF are contemporaneous photographs, manuals, or books. The Aero Series book, Grumman TBF/TBM "Avenger", by B.R. Jackson is a good reference as well as the Squardon/Signal book, TBF/TBM Avenger, by David Doyle. More general info is available from Wikipedia, https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grumman_TBF_Avenger; they also have has a "media" site, https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/Category:Grumman_TBF_Avenger, with many photographs. Also, searching for "tbf avenger", ""tbf avenger walkaround", "tbf avenger cutaway" or "tbf avenger loadout" can be useful. ARC has a walk-around section, http://www.arcair.com/awa-archives/walk.shtm, where you'll find 2 such photo sets for the TBF (under "Avenger"). Google also found this site, which appears to have more info on TBF loadouts, http://pwencycl.kgbudge.com/T/b/TBF_Avenger.htm. The TBF had a 3-man crew: pilot, rear-turret gunner, and radio-operator/ventral-gunner/bombardier. The last small door below and behind the starboard wing was for that 3rd crewman. HTH -- dnl
  5. Indeed it is possible. The method has been described in technical papers for a while now. The good part is that it's now far more accessible...you can follow along at home. Having written that, Some Body apparently already put a model of a Skyfighter on Shapeways...
  6. Outstanding! Bravo! Love that last shot!
  7. Thanks! That's our girl Cora--I'm her human so she keeps an eye on me. She and her boyfriend, Omar, are from German Shepherd Rescue of Orange County. The shelves are all filled now, but I can add a shelf between each of the existing shelves. There is now one taller piece on the bottom glass shelf, so I'll only be able to add a half-shelf on the left.
  8. I bought a Waddell Heritage series floor display case with the lighted cornice in 2015. I bought additional brackets from the local Woodcrafters and full-width glass shelves from the local glass place. https://waddellfurniture.com/display-case-wood-heritage I found the best price at Wayfair, https://www.wayfair.com/home/pdx/waddell-heritage-series-floor-display-case-with-lighted-cornice-wa1551.html This was soon after installation; I'll be adding more shelves sometime this year.
  9. dnl42

    Mr Color

    My experience is the same as @Curt B ! That's why I have, and will continue, to include animetropolis among my Mr Color sources. Their shipping is relatively good.
  10. Fozzy, Bravo! That model is a tour de force!
  11. dnl42

    Mr Color

    One of my LHS carries it, t'other doesn't. Ebay sellers jackrabbit9820 in the US animetropolis in Taiwan
  12. I guess I'm between @Jamie Cheslo and @weirich1. Fins first. Mask the fins, because they're easy to mask. Then body. Mask the body, again easy to mask. Then nose cone as that's all that's left.
  13. dnl42

    B-29

    Oh ya... Woohoo! I'm hoping this will be scaled down to 1/144 for that fine Fujimi kit... BTW, I broke out my Muroc Models 1/144 B-29 Mother Plane Conversion. It includes decals for 521800 as well as X-1 6063 and 6064. Oh, and here are two of my coffee cups. To keep somewhat on topic, the left is from the National Museum of Nuclear Science & Energy in ABQ.
  14. It opened 15,685 days ago, that is, 42 years, 11 months, 9 days. How time flies. I was in college at the time. Yet another "dang, I'm getting old" reference.
  15. Very nice work on these!
  16. Dang @Geoff M, that's really nice work! Two-times over! Glad you did this, as I have several of the HB kits in the stash, as well as the Testors (née Hawk) kit, which I bought for the Gulfhawk 4 decals.
  17. This. But hey, their dumb behavior caused me to try Mr Color and I've never looked back.
  18. Describing mathematics with language does indeed create confusion. But, your explanation is more consistent with informed usage. Particularly with the turf example listed above! The key is to never rely on these subtleties, especially where your wallet is concerned. 🙂
  19. Beethoven, 9th Symphony, 4th Movement Handel, Messiah, Hallelujah Chorus
  20. I have a Luxo L-1 task light with the heavy desk base. It came with an incandescent bulb--it was a while ago--but a 1600 lumen LED daylight (5000K) bulb is perfect! The NIB lamp was sold for dimes on the dollar by some liquidation outfit on eBay. I assume from a store that went out of business.
  21. I recommend a desk lamp with a 1600 lumen LED daylight bulb and Optivisors with a DA-5 lens plate. I also have a DA-10 lens plate, but the focal length means I only use it for the smallest detail work. I found a Luxo task light at a great price on eBay. The thing is huuuge, but it works really well.
  22. I thin any airbrushing medium to the thickness of 1% milk. Look at the atomization to ensure it is fine and uniform. I also make sure the medium lays down on the surface smoothly. It's always important to watch the paint as it hits the surface to ensure it's slightly wet. It must not be dry. It must not be runny. My airbrushing station is in my garage, near the door, which I always open. HTH -- dnl
  23. Glues that evaporate quickly are meant to be applied to parts already in position. For smaller parts, that should be easy to manage. For larger parts, such as fuselage or wing, align the parts carefully, perhaps using tape to maintain alignment. Then start at some convenient location, make sure the seam is perfectly aligned, and apply glue in that location. Apply the glue sparingly, and you'll see it wick into the joint. Once the glue has set, perhaps a minute or so, move further along the seam and repeat the process. For a fuselage, you might start at the nose or tail, work along the top, around the other end, underneath, and then back to the start. I like a JLC saw to remove parts from the sprue. With some practice, you can remove the most fragile parts without undue stress. Others prefer to use "sprue nippers." Try to figure out which approach works best for you. Both tools are immensely valuable.
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