dnl42
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Posts posted by dnl42
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What he said. HW store lacquer (cellulose) thinner to clean airbrush for any lacquer or enamel paint.
Don't dare use HW store lacquer to thin paint. Don't waste your money using model paint thinner to clean your airbrush.
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19 hours ago, habu2 said:
Had a hard time finding an unlocked version of this pic so this is shrunk to upload. Search on "SALTY DOG 85 flow track F-16"
Aircraft tire snow chains?
If you're going to include no landing gear, how about these tests of a flexible rubber deck?
The mind boggles...
I was certain I had first read about such efforts in one of @Tailspin Turtle's fascinating blog posts, but I can't find it...
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58 minutes ago, Mstor said:
XB-36 landing gear...
...
Looks like a toy airplane with those huge 9 foot diameter wheels.
This is a fun photo driving home the size of those wheels 🙂
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You might bring your props to your LHS to see if you can resin blades that are similar or perhaps a little larger so they can be reshaped. Alternately, you might try to shape a replacement blade from plastic strip.
HTH
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dnl
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37 minutes ago, Vince Maddux said:
Nothing is right about that plane its odd and ugly which is why it's so cool!
The Transavia PL-12 Airtruk is very cool! IMHO, it's better looking that its predecessor, the Bennet Airtruck.
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I'll add F7U Cutlass. Dang, that's a goofy stance. Almost as bad as the Pogo.
The Grumman AF Guardian is pretty out there, too...
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I've had good luck with Silly Putty for this purpose.
MSI also has a temp tacking glue that I'll use when Silly Putty won't work.
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After dipping in Future, put the part on a paper towel to absorb excess and then cover with a box or something to ensure dust doesn't alight on your clear and sticky bit of plastic.
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You spend time carefully cleaning up mold lines and mold misalignment on a part. You carefully look it over. Fully satisfied, you glue it into place. The very next time you look, you see a glaringly obvious missed mold line that is now wholly impossible to address.
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1 hour ago, Mstor said:
The phone ringing is too specific. In truth, it will be something that requires your immediate attention. A child will cut their finger, the dog/cat will knock over something, wife will demand your immediate help/attention, i.e. something will occur that cannot be ignored and you will either have to put the parts down, ruining the bond, or run out with said parts in hand and try, unsuccessfully, to deal with whatever the situation/crisis is.
I wish I were only imagining what this was like.
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Very well done!
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Dang!
Very well done, however... -
I mostly use Frisket Film.
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I don't have to look at that photograph to fill-in-the-blank.
New research will completely invalidate the most difficult-to-address part of your model right after you post finished pictures.
A new-tool highly detailed, well-fitting kit will be released right after you complete that old dimensionally-accurate-but-devoid-of-detail kit with fully scratch built cockpit, wheel wells, and landing gear. (Lindberg 1/48 F11F-1 Tiger, do you hear me?)
A new-tool highly detailed, well-fitting, and very affordable kit will be released right after you finally acquire the multiple PE and resin sets that quadrupled the base cost of that old dimensionally-accurate kit.
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Nicely done!
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1 hour ago, goondman said:
To be fair, i can only assume the tip wore out. Spatter or little to no paint would pass thru... the needles always looked fine. The neos just sucked right out of the box.
That could be a blockage, especially given the multiple instances, which suggest a problem beyond the airbrush itself.
Don's Airbrush Tips is an outstanding and authoritative source of information on airbrushes as well as their care and feeding. In this case, take a look at his Troubleshooting page.
FWIW, I always thin paint to the consistency of 1% milk. See more complete info here.
HTH
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dnl
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I always have a spare needle and nozzle because they're fragile. I've only gone through about 2 for my Iwata HP-TH and Iwata HP-CH airbrushes. Always due to my error. That is, I dropped the needle or damaged the nozzle by pushing too hard on the needle. I went through 3 needles and/or nozzles on my Badger 360, but that was my first decent airbrush and I was even more of a klutz then. It was quite a good airbrush. Not as nice as the Iwatas, but quite good.
Knock on wood, the current needles and nozzles in both Iwatas are about 3 years old. I routinely clean the airbrushes after each session. And do a full break-down about twice a year.
Ignoring the Aztec. You cite "tip wear out" for the Badger and Paasche Talon as well as the various "cheapy" airbrushes. No cause cited for the Iwata Neo. What does "tip wear out" mean to you?
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If you can make your test photo a small enough image, that is, under 100kb (102,400 bytes, it's a computer thing), you can directly upload it to the ARC forum by pressing the "choose files..." link that appears at the bottom of the text box whence you enter a post.
Otherwise, you'll need to upload the photo to an image hosting site (I use Postimage at postimages.org, but there are others), get a link from the hosting site ("Share" a "Direct link" in postimage), and then paste that link into your post. My experience suggests you don't post a link from Google photos as the link is difficult to get and eventually becomes stale.
Edit: Here's Krylon's page on their "camoflage" colors. -
@Mfezi, you identified the real issue with the article. Scientific American is looking for simple explanations. To be sure, this isn't new; it has long been their goal.
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When did you order? I can no longer find any evidence of their existence.
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Marvelous work!
I built Revell's 1/144 kit, and it's a beast compared to other 1/144 aircraft.
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1 hour ago, Historybuff said:
Do you guys clear coat canopies or other clear plastic pieces?
No! Masking tape on clear plastic comes off last! For some kits, the clear plastic bits can go on last. This had both
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Nicely done!
Caracal Decals models gallery
in Caracal Models
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Kinetic's 1/48 F-16D with CD 48037, "F-16C/D International Vipers Part 1"