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dnl42

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Posts posted by dnl42


  1.  

    1 hour ago, Historybuff said:

    Do you guys clear coat canopies or other clear plastic pieces? 

    No! Masking tape on clear plastic comes off last! For some kits, the clear plastic bits can go on last. This had both

    badangel-decals-done1.jpg


  2. 19 hours ago, habu2 said:

    Not disagreeing with you but it reminds me of a true story.  (TINS)

     

    Many (many) years ago I was dating this girl and, when I finally met her parents, I learned her dad was a pilot.  He was retired USAF, no nonsense about many things including flying and who his daughter dated.  Once he decided I might just might be an OK guy, he invited us to go flying in his twin engine Beech.  His daughter informed me this was a Very Big step in gaining his trust and to not screw it up.

     

    So we drive out the the airport that weekend and meet him at the hangar.  He has the pre-flight done and is waiting on us. Before we board he turns to me and says "One question. Do you know what keeps an airplane in the air?"  I met his judging gaze and confidently said "Bernoulli."  After the longest five seconds of my life he smiled and said "Welcome aboard."

     

    After the flight we were talking and he told me "Actually you're wrong about what keeps a plane in the air. It's not Bernoulli."

     

    (short pause)

     

    "It's money."

     

    He was an alright guy.  

    I can absolutely hear your ex honey's admonition to not mess up.

     

     

    Do you know the difference between TINS and "Once upon a time"?

    A fairy tale starts with "Once upon a time." A sea story starts with TINS.


  3. On 6/23/2020 at 7:37 AM, habu2 said:

     

    One of my favorite shows when growing up.  It inspired me to want to be an astronaut - for all the wrong reasons.....  :whistle:

    My future wife learned English from that show when she emigrated to the US.

     

    As she's now a retired rocket scientist, that's quite a positive statement.


  4. One practice I've developed is make sure the airbrush is atomizing well before I pour in the paint. I'll drop 3-5 drops of thinner in the airbrush; I then start with air (no paint) and then slowing pull back on the trigger, increasing the fluid flow. This does 2 things: 1) makes sure there's nothing wrong with the airbrush (clogs, misalignment, &etc), and B) makes sure there's compatible thinner in the brush.

     

    Once I load the paint, I'll give a quick full-flow blast of paint. All of this helps ensure there are no surprises when I start spraying.


  5. Congratulations! You've chosen the best paint!

     

    Mr Color is my primary paint, by a very large margin. I just posted my airbrushing method in another thread:

    To answer your other questions.

    1. Lacquer only needs to dry. It doesn't need to cure, as enamel does. Parts can be handled relatively quickly, should be no longer than 10m unless you're putting on too heavy a coat. For non-gloss wet coats, 5m is about right.
    2. As noted in the above, I mask in 30m to 1h. 
    3. If I'm misting another color, say for shading where no masking is needed, I'll do that in 10m--about the time to clean out the old color and thin the next color.
    4. I use Mr Color Gloss Clear C46, MSI Micro Satin, and MSI Micro Flat. The MSI clears are thinned with water.
    5. I've used Solvaset and Mr Mark Softer without issues. For these as well as my usual MSI Micro Set and Micro Sol,  I don't glop it on, but I do completely cover the decals.

  6. I do indeed suggest you try. Painting has a strong user-specific aspect to it. For example, I've never gotten anything but a lousy result from Future, so I never use the stuff. Others get brilliant results.

     

    Having written that, I get excellent results from Mr Color paints, so my suggestion is their Gloss Black, C2. But, to reinforce my point, Mr Color demand good airbrushing skills to achieve their absolutely amazing results.

     

    The cowling is Mr Color gloss red with gloss clear. The rest of the airframe is MSI Micro Satin

    snj-done2.jpg


  7. On 6/20/2020 at 10:47 PM, VADM Fangschleister said:

    Chine

     

    Not chin.

    Funny, he distinctly said "chin" and labeled the video with the same word. As you point out, however, chine is indeed the correct word.


    Similarly, he spoke and labeled the video with "thread" instead of the expected "tread". :dontknow:


  8. That may be something you did, or perhaps not. Doesn't matter though.

     

    It looks like the canopy is a simple curve. Is that correct? If so, perhaps you could cut a rectangular piece of clear plastic and glue it in place?. You'd only have painted frames unless you tried some decal paper strips or some such.


  9. I have one pin vise that has such a feature. It's from General Hardware, that brand of small tools you find in hardware stores and lumber yards. While the feature is nice, the pin vise itself it only OK. I keep a needle in it and use it as a pin punch and for curve scribing.


  10. Some more info on painting solvent paints (including Tamiya acrylic, which is IPA soluble).

    • Prepare surface as smooth as possible. Polishing pads help here.
    • Make sure there are no foreign substances on the model. I always wipe the model with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol (IPA) before painting.
    • Thin the paint with the manuf's thinner until you've verified others work as well. For my preferred Mr Color, I use Mr Color Leveling Thinner (MLT). I use MLT for Colourcoat paints too, as I know it works well.
    • Thin to the consistency of 1% milk. Try to thin only the paint you'll need for the specific session. Don't put thinned paint back in the jar/tin.
    • Always prime resin and metal. You should prime if you have multiple surfaces, for example plastic and metal. I always prime everything using thinned Mr Surfacer 1200 (thinned as above).
    • Set the full-flow air pressure to 15 PSI (1 atm). This means air (but not paint) is flowing through the airbrush. Static air pressure will be higher.
    • Spray at 0.25 in to 1.75 in (5 to 55 mm). I suggested practicing on cheap kits earlier to learn how to do this because it can be a little tricky to manage. The most important part is to not get too far away, so the paint doesn't dry before it hits the model surface.
    • The paint should hit the surface slightly wet. Use a grazing light to see this. If the paint isn't wet when it hits the surface, you're going to get an orange peel or worse.
    • Use thin coats to build coverage. White and yellow can require many thin coats to get full coverage. As I use lacquers, which dry very quickly, I can get full coverage in a single session. If I have multiple small parts I'll apply a thin coat to each part in turn until I've built full coverage on all parts. On a full model, I'll do the same with different parts of the model. You can do this with enamels too, but don't force this if the paint is tacky or wet.
    • If you are spraying a gloss color, only apply a final "wet" coat after you've gotten full coverage. This is especially important for white and yellow.
    • Wait until the paint is fully dry before masking. For enamels, wait until the paint has cured (several days, until you can't smell any off-gassing). With Mr Color, I will mask in 30m to an hour.
    • I primarily use Tamiya masking tape because of its good adhesion and low tack. I will also mask with Frisket film when I need a more complicated mask. Microscale Industries Micro Mask works well for paints. I always de-tack masking tape by laying it on the palm of my clean hand before applying to the model

    HTH

    -- 

    dnl

     


  11. My suggestion is buy the best airbrush you can afford, not the cheapest you can find. The flaws in a cheap airbrush impeded learning proper technique and seeing improvements as you learn. 

     

    Don's Airbrush Tips has some great info. Make sure spare parts are readily available; I always have a spare needle and nozzle on-hand.

     

    Once you do choose and buy an airbrush, practice on various surfaces including some cheap kits. A flat piece of cardboard is great for learning basic skills, but at some point you need to learn to move around the complex surfaces of a model.

     

    I paint lacquers, which provide the smoothest and thinnest coat and dry very quickly. On the down side, they demand good technique and are solvent-based. Enamels are a little thicker, somewhat forgiving in application, but take days to cure and are also solvent based. Water soluble acrylics provide the thickest coat and dry quickly.

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