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Posts posted by dnl42


    For the Tamiya spray painted stuff you might try Tamiya or Gunze lacquer thinners. Tamiya's spray paints are lacquers and their thinner is mild enough not to attack plastic. I have used Gunze and Tamiya lacquer thinners to remove airbrushed Tamiya, Mr Color and MRP paints. Used a stiff brush and scrubbed it right off.

    I've done the same, well, with Mr Color Thinner. As noted, doesn't harm the model.


    Chrome needs to be stripped to remove the underlying clearcoat that obscures detail. Do the gold parts suffer the same issue? If not, perhaps just prime and apply the finish coats?



    What's the trick to get rid of it considering the fact that the mixture I made is so strong that melts silver plating in a matter of seconds?

    Dude! 😱

  2. You can't push on a rope. We'll, unless you stiffen it somehow. I routinely use CA to stiffen the end of cotton or synthetic threads. Cut the end at an acute angle and it's very easy to use. Sadly, this doesn't appear to work on EZ line.


    Another approach is to install the threads before assembly, which means you need to deal with them during assembly and painting, I did this with the upper line where it entered the aft hull of this LCM3. I put enough thread for its full run in the hull and glued toggles on both ends of the thread. The toggle left outside the hull allowed me to pull the rest of the line out; the toggle on the inside of the hull prevented me from pulling the bitter end of the thread out of the hull. The other lines shown in this photo were threaded at the very end.



    Another approach is to drill through holes and then thread after assembly. I've never this, but it's been demonstrated in numerous WIPs.


    You could you make a 'plug' with a through hole; 0.3mm Albion tubing might be best for this. You would need to drill a 0.3mm hole in the plastic, thread the EZ line through the tube ensuring the EZ line length will be correct, glue EZ line into the tube, and then insert the tube into the plastic. It would give the appearance of a through-fuselage insulator, especially if it stands a little proud of the surface. Grumman F4Fs and F6Fs most definitely had such fittings.


    I use a 6 mil ceramic fibre for antennas and rigging. It's stiff so I just need to drill holes aligned with the direction of the 'wire', cut the fibre to length, insert into the holes, and glue in place with PVA, CA, or epoxy.








  3. I agree, one of the most beautiful aircraft every flown, and you're done her memory proud! :worship:


    I'm still hoping AMG will come through with a 1/144 version. The last email from them suggested Spring or Summer this year. Like Douglas Adams, I suppose they love the whooshing sounds deadlines make as they fly by...

  4. The Fujimi B-29 is  indeed supposed to be the best. BUT, it has square prop hubs, so you'll need to source alternates.


    The Amodel Lancaster is also supposed to be the best. But, you need to bring your modeling skills to bear on Amodel kits. I have the B.III Dambuster boxing; they also have B.I/B.III and 10MR boxings, in addition to a Lancastrian. Amodel have some great subjects, but only the Lancaster meets your criteria.



    AFAIK, we desperately need a decent B-17.  Don't know anything about the others...

  5. 45 minutes ago, 11bee said:

    Just disappointing that, since PB was one of the major photo hosting sites for ages, many really nice threads are going to lose all their pictures.     PB sucks. 

    ...many really nice threads are going to once again lose all their pictures.

  6. First and foremost, I don't freehand camo, so you may well be past my admittedly middling skills.


    With that, I find 0.5mm (HP-TH) and 0.3mm (HP-CH) to be ideal. In addition to primers, I use the 0.5mm nozzle for base colors, metallics (Alclad and Mr Color), and clear coats. I haven't found anything so fine that the 0.3mm can't handle. I do spray thin paint, like 1% milk consistency, at ~15psi (1 atm), and around 0.25 to 1.75 inches. I always rely on multiple coats unless I'm over coating for color variation.





  7. Just now, ChesshireCat said:

    Last night I found a large book that I picked up in a yard sale a couple years ago. It starts with the 299 airframe and ends up with the oddballs. Excellent photos inside, which leads to another thought. That airframe was a rivit nightmare!!! Maybe a million rivits showing! Be interesting to see how HK does them!


    And the name of the book is?


    Flying Fortress, by Edward Jablonski is an excellent comprehensive reference on its design and development

  8. 20 hours ago, nspreitler said:

    I have a finished F done as Ye Olde Pub, and a G in the stash with a ton of aftermarket (photoetch, resin interior, engines, canopy, and decals).   The effort needed to get the old Monogram kit to the level I want it at is a major undertaking so I am very happy about a new one.    But with the Showdown GB coming up this would be a good time to do them both, and maybe keep the Monogram one more simple than I had originally planned.  

    Are decals for "Ye Olde Pub" available? What scales?

  9. Hey, it all worked! :thumbsup:


    I don't find the "Hotlink for forums" to be particularly useful. But, what I do find useful is to insert the "Direct link", then select the image and link it using the "Link" 


    Edit: that's similar to how the images in my signature work, but in that case, the link is to the album 🙂

  10. 19 minutes ago, Keroburner89 said:

    I've got the 0.5mm in there at the moment. I might try really thinning down and seeing what happens

    I thin all paint (Mr Color, Colourcoat, Humbrol, and Tamiya) to the consistency of 1% milk. Take a look at Alclad consistency. I spray at about 15psi (1 atmosphere). Spray thin coats.

  11. 23 minutes ago, Keroburner89 said:

    I don't know why, but I have so much trouble spraying these and have had problems for years. 


    It's like no matter how thin I make it or how I've adjusted the pressure, it just refuses to spray properly. It rather comes out in bursts- super annoying

    Which paint and what nozzle size? I've had some problems spraying Alclad with a 0.3mm nozzle, so I mostly use my 0.5mm nozzle for metallics.


    I have no problems spraying regular Mr Color in either 0.3mm or 0.5mm nozzles.

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