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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. Perhaps a picture of the prototype hardware would enable others to identify suitable model versions? FWIW, I use RB Productions 1/32 PE rigging bits for other subjects, but there are other makers.
  2. As noted above, Mr Thinner works perfectly to smooth Tamiya putty while wet as well as once dried (though more patience is required when dried). Mr Thinner won't damage the plastic, so there's no worry about damage to nearby details.
  3. The PE bits are bent and attached. I'm going to paint all these bits separately and then assemble with Formula 560 Canopy Glue.
  4. Ooh! Ooh! That's nice! I definitely want to see this!
  5. I suppose this approach enables the model manufacturer to avoid their box art being cited as offensive--or even illegal--while simultaneously enabling the modeler the opportunity to build an accurate model.
  6. dnl42

    Metallic paint

    Agree that thinning is required. Also, the type of paint is important. I would avoid lacquers. Check out the videos on youtube for tutorials on brush painting. I searched for "brush paint models" and quite a list was provided. This is the first one in that list
  7. When I've done something like this, I just removed the errant bits with 4- and 6-cut files and then polished the remaining part with a polishing pad set that went up to 12000 grit. I also have some Mr Hobby Super Fine polishing compound that I sometimes use. White glue will work just fine. But, I prefer an acrylic glue, like Zap Formula 560 Canopy Glue, which is now what I primarily use. The nice thing about any of these is water cleanup, clear drying, and flexibility. Flexibility is especially important when gluing flat surface joints as it won't fail when subject to shear stress from the different expansion rates between plastic and brass. CA is vulnerable to this failure mode due to it's lesser shear strength. HTH -- dnl
  8. Hauler provides PE windshield frames along with plastic sheet to replace Hasegawa's IP windshield. To the best I can figure, Hauler wants you to overlay the 2 PE frames atop the Hasegawa frame. That would have looked quite thick, so instead, I decided to cut the inner frame out so only the Hauler bits would be used. A new #11 blade and repeated scoring removed the plastic, then more patient filing with 2- through 6-cut equaling files enabled the Hauler frame and plastic sheet to fit. A JLC took care of the other to-be-replaced windshield paraphernalia.
  9. With the LCM3 done, I'm back to this. I've been working my way around the body, removing plastic, filling holes, and adding PE. I hollowed out the horn with a drill and a hand-held Dremel router bit. And the dash is done. The original plastic part had blobs for the handbrake and switches. Hauler provides a brass replacement, but has you lay the handbrake handle atop the dash, with dimples for the switches. I drilled out the handbrake and switch pads with a #80 drill and used some 0.0115 wire. The handbrake was easy to do--place the wire and put the handle atop. The switches took some more thought. I tried cutting bits of wire for the switches, but they were impossible to hold at 0.03 total length. I then realized I could thread the wire through, leave the right amount protruding, about 0.02, and then cut off the back of the wire after I put a drop of CA on to bond the wire. This also let me dress the exposed part of the wire with a file so it was flat. In any event, here's the completed dash. I use wooden sticks with tape wrapped around--sticky side out--as a tool for holding small parts for painting...
  10. I just measured the wing droop on my model, built about 4-5y ago. The wing leading edge is 30mm at the wing root and 15mm at the tip. My model only has 1 wheel on each MLG, which is apparently correct for an RQ-4B. 2 wheels on each MLG are apparently correct for an RQ-4A. Also, check out those WALK WAY decals. On my kit, the starboard side decals are a mirror image of the port side decals, including backward text!
  11. A good open source (free) tool is Inkscape. While I've done a few decals, I mostly use Inkscape to cut masks and also sheet parts on a Silhouette Portrait cutter. The sheet parts for the Mark 21-1 mounts on the LCM in my current signature were designed in Inkscape and scored on the cutter. A little work with a sharp knife freed the parts.
  12. Nice start on this. As you noted, the wings are quite long and will droop due to their weight. But, they should indeed bend up due to air loads. I wonder if this would work: jig the upper wing to the proper bend, bond some carbon fibre on the bottom of the upper wing with epoxy, wait for the epoxy to cure, and finally glue the lower wing onto the upper wing while in the jig.
  13. I tried this, once. It was OK. I've since gone to building full coverage with light coats of flat white. If a gloss coat is needed, then a couple of light gloss coats followed by a final wet gloss coat. Works like a charm. Also for yellow.
  14. Brookhurst Hobbies in Garden Grove Military Hobbies in Orange Tony's Hobbies & Toys in Baldwin Park Pegasus Hobbies in Montclair The Hobby Warehouse and the multiple Hobby People are all gone, as is that place on Bellflower. IPMSOC has a meeting this Friday at 7:30 at the La Quinta Inn in Buena Park. The theme is D-Day.
  15. Not sure where to put this, so I chose this sub-forum. I need some disks to make the control knobs of my Hasegawa 1/48 Jeep. If you have a Waldron Subminiature punch set, would you mind punching some discs using the smallest punch? I believe that's 0.018in. The material should be thin, perhaps while paper or aluminum foil? I'm happy to pay you for your efforts. PM me if you can help TIA -- dnl
  16. Sounds nifty, but no pictures visible.
  17. Wow, nice build! And definitely a win-win!!!
  18. Bravo! That's quite an outstanding effort.
  19. @swbailey, thanks! I am particularly proud of this one!
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