dnl42

Hm...The P-51D instructions call out part "E2" for the canopy and "E01" for the windscreen. The F-51D instructions call out part "E03" or "E05" for the canopy and "E01" for the windscreen. Looking at the F-51D clear parts, there are canopies labeled "E02", "E03", and "E05" as well as windscreens "E01" and "E04". Assuming the P-51D instructions should have called out part "E02" instead of "E2", then the F-51D kit could work for you. HTH -- dnl

I like Microscale Industries Micro Flat. It's the flattest that I've found. Thin with water to airbrush. Dries quite fast.

I just looked at an X-29, it's all while. No indication of yellowing. Perhaps yellowing is more pronounced in a rattle can. I had excellent results airbrushing Testors clear lacquers. I am completely delighted with all Mr Color paints--but they demand very good airbrush technique. My 1st use was a disaster, but I've learned to spray them well now, and they're my primary paint choice by far. I'm also happy with MSI Micro Flat and Micro Satin; I do find I need to thin these with water lest they bead up.

also: different vertical stabilizers, but same rudders; 2 different canopies. I can look in the F-51D box to see if the P-51D box parts are present.

If you're comfortable with Dullcote, you can get bottled Testors clear lacquer in gloss, semi-gloss, and flat. Thin it with Testors lacquer thinner and you're good to go. I used to use that exclusively, but switched a couple years ago to Mr Color Clear gloss (C46) thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner, Microscale Industries Micro Satin thinned with water, and Microscale Industries Micro Flat thinned with water. I thin all paint to the consistency of 1% milk (or a tad thinner), spray at 15 psi (1 atm), from about 0.25 - 2 in. I generally use a 0.5mm nozzle (Iwata HP-TH) for primer,

1 will look like a losing proposition as that's all everyone will see 2 could work assuming you're going to go all in on weathering the rest of the aircraft 3 is probably best, assuming Academy will oblige. I wish I had asked when I lost the canopy for a MiG-21MF. 4 get some polishing pads, to 12000 grit, and polish it out. This assumes no "frames" in the vicinity or good control of the polishing pads. This works quite well. I've removed full on seams as well as scuffs from clear parts using this approach. As you start out, it will look like it's getting wo

If I understand correctly, the Mk1 Tropical boxing, A05129, apparently has all the plastic that was in the A05127 Mk1 kit. You'd need to source decals for a BoB aircraft, though.

Recently finished The Last Chapter: The Facts About The Final Days of Grumman. An informative read for anybody that worked at the Iron Works. Now rereading The Last Stand of the Tin Can Sailors. Very highly recommended! I first got this book for my father, who commanded a Butler-class ship out of Perth Amboy in the Reserve.

That's quite outstanding work. I love the details and extra bits...

And for me

Please tell me that was an, uh, pet, that got out of its home.

Shipping issues might be some basis. Perhaps also international competition. At the end of the day, there was some decision based on return on investment and opportunity costs. I can't imagine the Testors business moves RPM's needle very much. This does beg the question why RPM acquired Floquil, Testors, and whatever other hobby paint lines they gobbled up. At any rate, they lost me to Mr Color years ago. They're very much in a different class

1/39 yeah...

Bought a book from @Flex4eg on Oct 17. Received it today (Oct 21). It was extremely well packed and exactly as described. Completely delighted

That's quite excellent work! What kit?

Bravo!

I've done the same, well, with Mr Color Thinner. As noted, doesn't harm the model. Chrome needs to be stripped to remove the underlying clearcoat that obscures detail. Do the gold parts suffer the same issue? If not, perhaps just prime and apply the finish coats? Dude! 😱

I see a lot of Mr Color & related bottles. I suppose the competition provide the finishing supplies?

You can't push on a rope. We'll, unless you stiffen it somehow. I routinely use CA to stiffen the end of cotton or synthetic threads. Cut the end at an acute angle and it's very easy to use. Sadly, this doesn't appear to work on EZ line. Another approach is to install the threads before assembly, which means you need to deal with them during assembly and painting, I did this with the upper line where it entered the aft hull of this LCM3. I put enough thread for its full run in the hull and glued toggles on both ends of the thread. The toggle left outside the hull allowed me to pull

I agree, one of the most beautiful aircraft every flown, and you're done her memory proud! I'm still hoping AMG will come through with a 1/144 version. The last email from them suggested Spring or Summer this year. Like Douglas Adams, I suppose they love the whooshing sounds deadlines make as they fly by...

I've also ordered from XMM. I was quite happy with the service and am delighted with the product.

I have replacement props along with a B-29 Mothership conversion for the Fujimi B-29 and Dragon X-1 from Muroc Models But, Brengun also have propellers http://www.brengun.cz/e-shop/1-144-accessories-19/proppelers-for-b29-superfortress-723

The Fujimi B-29 is indeed supposed to be the best. BUT, it has square prop hubs, so you'll need to source alternates. The Amodel Lancaster is also supposed to be the best. But, you need to bring your modeling skills to bear on Amodel kits. I have the B.III Dambuster boxing; they also have B.I/B.III and 10MR boxings, in addition to a Lancastrian. Amodel have some great subjects, but only the Lancaster meets your criteria. AFAIK, we desperately need a decent B-17. Don't know anything about the others...

...many really nice threads are going to once again lose all their pictures.

Wow! Seems like the old leadership team is back. You know, the team that was shocked at the backlash of their fine $300/year plan.