dnl42

That worked fine! Oh, and good choice on the Master barrels--they're amazing!

Welcome to the forum! Any model of a Grumman aircraft is obviously a brilliant choice! I'll enjoy following along!

Aw, man! I suppose this was too good to be true...

Wow, this is really good work! Great attention to detail. The ideal complement to your excellent work!

Paint colors from light to dark. Paper masks Print the marking guides from the kit or decal instructions at 1/48 scale and then cut out the different colors as masks. This works great for the surfaces relatively normal to the view, like the wings, stabilizers, and slab-sided fuselage sides/tops. Curved surfaces and transitions between surfaces, such as the upper and lower halves of, say, a Spitfire or Thunderbolt will additional more freehand work because those marking guides only show projections of the pattern onto top, side, and bottom views. You need to

Hm, the CGI looked somewhat cheesy, I mean as in the realism of the rendering, not the action itself. Perhaps I just more readily accept it in mainstream SciFi? IMHO, the best SciFi movie of all time is Arrival. It's quite amazing when you pay attention to the detail. Almost, but not quite, entirely unlike a Star Wars shoot-em-up.

All items in my stash, that may or may not exist, are in a Google spreadsheet. This enables me to check at home or on the road, on my desktop, tablet, or phone. There are tabs for kits, AM, and books. Multiple kits are OK, but multiple copies of the same book is dumb as a post....

I'm currently reading Normandy '44 by James Holland. It's been very inclusive of all sides, both from overall viewpoints during the preparations on both sides to battle-specific comparisons. It's well documented and well written.

Tamiya v. Airfix 1/48 P-51D is old v. new. @TheRealMrEd has a good idea, kits of the same subject regardless of era or manufacturer. Perhaps you could call it "This v. That", which indeed includes "Old v. New".

https://www.nytsyn.com/archives/photos/1269725.html https://www.nytsyn.com/archives/photos/1103132.html

Completely agree, you'll be very happy with Albion Alloys tubing. The tube walls are very thin, 0.1mm. I highly recommend their telescoping tubing sets, they're extremely versatile.

I just got an email from MicroMark touting a color decal package including an HP laser printer, Ghost White Toner, and laser decal paper. That white toner is ex·pen·sive! Furthermore, it looks like multi-color printing requires 2 printing passes: one pass with the CMYK toner and another with the white toner. Has anybody used this? What are your experiences?

Nice work! That work on the light, motor, and sound sequencing is quite well done.

Bravo! Well done.

Continuing to enjoy the build

FYI, just passing info along, no commercial interests, &etc... Free Time Hobbies just sent out an email blast; they have the kit available for pre-order.

Mold the PE to the surface shape. Ideally against the plastic surface but you may need some other object to make the PE shape more consistent with its destination. Then, as @muradsuggested, pin it down with a pointy object in one hand while you apply CA with an applicator in the other hand. Paper is fine as an applicator but I prefer a metal tip for a knife handle, like these from RB Productions.

I use Mr Color lacquers. I haven't found a clear-coat is needed before applying decals over Mr Color because they go down so smoothly. To be sure, you do need a clear-coat atop the decals to ensure they are protected and fixed in place. You especially need a gloss coat over decals if you're going to apply weathering. As you noted, you want to make sure the gloss coat beneath weathering finishes isn't affected by the weathering media. As I've been using Tamiya and Vallejo washes, Mr Color C33 clear works just fine. In addition to Mr Color C33 for gloss coats, I use Microscale Indust

Nice! That really looks the part for an in-flight display!!!

Excellent work. More so on an Amodel kit. I love their subjects, but they're a lot of work!

I believe they have multiple formulations, including lacquers. I can't help work the other formulations, but I can offer suggestions for lacquers. They're very thin paints. Surface prep is critical. Thin to 1% milk consistency. Spray thin coats close in at 15 psi. Make sure the paint is still wet when it hits the surface.

There ya go!

Thank you

Hey, there's a good story for that one!