dnl42

I'm no expert, but Google found this for me. Belcher Bits suggests not on their instruction sheet for their 1/48 RCN Avenger conversion: HTH

Do you have anything that shows the movement resolution? The web site doesn't give a clue...

Very nice! I really like the black and orange color scheme of your build! Very striking. My Google-foo has managed to find some pictures, but not a lot. Do you know of a good source of pix? I got the bits to build a 1/48 version of a Hemet Valley Flying Services TBM fire bomber for the upcoming Grumman Iron Works group build. I hope mine comes out half as good.

He masked the shark mouth--now that's some serious masking skills...

There are forward and after attachments. Brass rods would likely be needed to provide the required strength. Looking at the actual attachments, as shown here and here, the forward attachment seems to match your wishbone description. I'd use short brass rods as cores of each strut (forward and aft) to provide strength with plastic around the rods to give it the right shape. Also, you should probably post this in the Real Space Modeling sub-forum to enlist the aid of ARC's subject matter experts. HTH

Oh man... This is bad... They have so many unique Grumman schemes :blink:/>

Having just switched to enamels, I completely agree.

Well, there is this 1/72 USS Enterprise CVN-65... There's also Task Force 72, who like to sail them.

For $158

Next question. Tamiya claims a flat brown (XF-10) for the wooden benches in the main compartment. I've seen oiled or perhaps even "bright" (varnished) wood in some reconstructions and builds. That doesn't make sense to me; Maintaining a bright wood needs time and elbow grease. Also, bright or oiled wood would plainly contrast with the rest of the vehicle. For that reason, I'm thinking the benchaes are more correctly Dunkelgelb. Wood may well be visible due to wear, but weathered wood tends to gray. Thoughts?

G, Thanks for the confirmation! That makes a lot more sense.

I'm building an Sd.Kfz 251/1 Ausf. D as "Starówka", a vehicle captured by the Poles during the Warwaw Uprising. I normally build 1/48 aircraft, hence the scale. I'm using Hauler's HLX48295 and HLX48296 PE sets and Model Master enamels. As shown in the first link above, Toro tells me the vehicle is Dunkelgelb overall. But, this build relied on photographs (see links that the top of page) that suggest a camoflaged vehicle. There does appear to be something shown in the photos, so I'm willing to go with the color scheme in this build as a better choice than pure Dunkelgelb. Tamiya indicates vi

I didn't find anything in the forums on this... From The Official Website of The Doolittle Tokyo Raiders: There are now only 4 survivors...

All right! We have a date:

I agree with Jennings. But, to be sure, it's the UMM razor saw. I too have had problems with clipping parts unless I'm clipping the only attachment point. If there's more than one attachment point, I only use a saw, especially the fine tooth side of the blade. My experience is it puts the least pressure on the part as it removes the material in way of the kerf. Clippers will cleave the material and can put undue pressure on the part.

It depends on the coating that will underlay the wash; it must be impervious to the wash solvent. Since Tamiya Clear coat is a lacquer, an acrylic or water color wash will be safe. Over a Future clear coat, an enamel or oil is safe. A water color wash will also be safe on Future as long as you don't use Windex to break the surface tension of the wash; such a wash would be fine on a Tamiya clear coat.

This is excellent info!

My LHS, Brookhurst Hobbies, has 1 if yer interested.

Dude, you should have gone with "My dog at it!" Nobody would have any questions...now there are just so many. I suggest you edit your post and then claim everybody else, imcluding me, were halucinating.

Glue it and then use it to crash-mold a replacement.

Hmm. Live steam tends to be uber expensive. This 1 guage Union Pacific Challenger 4-6-6-4 locomotive is NOT the most expensive at $13,500. The large ones are 7 1/2" guage (1/8 scale), are driven by an engineer, pull cars containing several adults, and can takes years to machine and build...

The LHS, Brookhurst Hobbies, is offering pre-orders on the Amodel 1/72 Dornier Do X. List price is... Wait for it... $554.99

The Hobby Craft 1/48 P-36/Hawk 75/Mohawk has both Twin Wasp and Cyclone engines along with their respective long and short cowlings. Be aware though, that the HC Mohawk IV boxing only includes the Cyclone engine and short cowling. Academy reboxed this kit, but the sprue shots I've seen look like Academy only provides the Twin Wasp with it's long cowling. [Edited to specify scale]

I so hope they'll do this in 1/48!

That's the key. Read about techniques and try them out. Some will be fantastic for you; others, not so much... Depending on the circumstances, I'll remove putty with either a q-tip and thinner or by sanding. I've tried various fillers, and my favortite is Tamiya. As for clear coats, I've never been able to get a good Future coat--don't know what I'm doing wrong. But, I have been happy with the Testors Glosscote and Dullcote in a rattle can. I will try to airbrush it on the current A6 eggplane I'm building. Finally paints. I've done all of my models to date with various acrylics, except for t