dnl42

Wow! Thanks for finding the build URL--that is A-MA-ZING! I second your nomination!

I've been there, they do have an outstanding selection of kits and accessories.

Hmmm, it looks like there's something going on at the wing tip. See the sharp color demarcation at the wing underside leading edge?

Starting on the Mirage 1/48 PZL P.23A Karaś. The A was primarily used in a training role by the September Campaign. Sigh... Tipping a bottle of Tamiya Extra Thin Cement on your build is, well, very bad for success of said build...

Those are vacu-formed. They're actualy quite nice when well-molded as they're very thin. You do need to be careful cutting them out, though. It may be useful to carefully mark the cut line with a felt marker; make sure you stay away from the to-be-clear portion if it's a Sharpie or other permanent marker. Make light cuts with a sharp blade and then carefully trim with a sanding stick. In my experience, the first one you do is more scary than anything else. I'm sure your grandfather taught you to be careful and patient--that's all that's really needed here. Well, that and a steady hand. :)

Cool, the LHS has those. They look good. Will have to give them a try!

FWIW, Brookhurst Hobbies, here in the OC, has several of the AFV Club F-5 boxings... No interest, they're just my LHS.

Yeah! They added "Find by Scale"!!! Thank You Squadron!!!

Now that is cool. Thanks for sharing this!

Yeah, in my experience, you can't mask PE for exactly the reason you described. I do a single color at at time for both sides of the fret. So, prime both sides then paint. I also use on of those clamping--squeeze to open--tweezers to hold the PE while painting. I will mask a fret that has some pre-painted bits, e.g., on the current E.V that I'm working on, to paint the other plain bits... Others suggested various low-grade acids, e.g., vinegar, to etch the metal; I've never tried that, and fortunately haven't had a need to mask PE. If I did need to mask PE, I'd probably first try a mask, e.g.

Hmm, I think there are two counfounded subjects here. 1) The Aeroclub wing jig. While this looks like an exceptional piece of equipment, it's OOP. 2) The Sram jig that Hannants stocks. Given my druthers, I prefer the Aeroclub. Considering availability, it's Sram or DIY. BTW, Google helped me find the Sram jig at West Coast Hobbies. I have no clue about them, so caveat emptor.

You could use a white primer, like the Tamiya, then just a thin coat of a "finish" flat white. I did this just 45m ago on the tail planes of an E.V with MM Acryl; the color is opaque, smooth, uniform, and doesn't obscure any of the detail--very very nice! I use lacquer thinner for all cleaning, between colors and then the final cleaning/disassembly. After disassembly, I pop the nozzle bits into a lidded jar with lacquer thinner until ready for the next use. I use the paint brand's thinner--and only their thinner--for airbrushing. As for which plane, I agree on doing both! Both are iconic, bu

Darius, I have learned it's always a treat to see your truly outstanding work. I just browsed the B-47 build and will follow the B-52 when you do that monster! Would you do Balls-3 or Balls-8 with the X-15 or will you do a different aircraft? I have decals for Balls-3, the Minicraft (nee Crown) 1/44 B-52, and am awaiting resin bits to convert the H to an A. The X-15 is built and waiting for it's mother :)

Are you unable to get a good coat at all? Or, are you trying to paint and then fold? For the former, I agree with the previous posts that said clean (denatured alchohol), prime (Mr Primer or Tamiya), and paint (Alclad, Acryl, and Vallejo). For the latter, I alway have to touch up if I do prepaint, so I usually only paint after folded unless there are some interior bits that would be hard to cover well--I expect to repaint those parts' exterior in any event.

So, it REALLY needs a "Search by Scale". Yes, one can "Choose a sub-category", and "KITS" or "ACCESSORIES" but then you're forced to also select "JETS - 1/48 SCALE" and "PROP - 1/48 SCALE" and "ROTOR WING - 1/48 SCALE" and and and.

Another vote for the JLC saw--it is truly amazing. I now use it almost exclusively for removing plastic parts from sprues too. Even the most delicate parts come off without stress (no pun intended).

Finished!

Outstanding!

Fresh out of the paint shop, ready for finishing.

I agree with the "it depends on the subject" sentiment, but it looks like my limits are a tad lower. Fpr those highly desired but still too expensive, I practice patience. I managed to get Eduard's 1/48 MiG-29A on sale under $50 from Squadron. And, assuming the deal goes well, I'll get Tamiya's 1/48 Mossie for a good price too. I'd love Tamiya's 1/48 Lancaster--it looks like I may need to be very patient for that one...

I got the AM F3F-1 kit from the LHS--only one left! :P Looks good! The instructions are beyond comprehensive. Decals are provided to enable you to build any of the F3F-1's; I'll do a VF-31, then VF-6, "Felix" version.

I've not been able to get Future to work for a gloss coat. Usually dull, or worse, pebbley. FWIW, Testor's Glosscoat works nicely for me. I can then use water colors thinned with Windex for a wash.

I tried the Lichtblau RLM76 and I'm much happier with it on the wing than it appeared on my test sample...

Thanks!

So, I just received the Acu-Stion Mechanical Set for the BMW Sauber F-1 for HLJ after waiting a very long time... The scant instructions have even less English on them, and I need a little help in translating 2 bits. First is this part; it may well be generic introductory text: The second bit appears to be discussing the filler caps (5), radiator panel (6), and seat belt buckle (13). Would somebody translate this for me?