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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. As @11bee noted, a key factor is the type of paint. Assuming you meant water-based acrylics, they're the thickest paint. Lacquers are thinnest, with enamels between. That being said, you have some control over the thickness of the paint layers you apply, and complete control the number of layers. You'll need to decide when, if, it's too thick...
  2. I have both Tamiya and Hasegawa versions, so I completely agree with you on the desire for 1/48 AFVs and vehicles. Bandai did an even older version, that was supposed to be quite good.
  3. I use Gator's Grip for PE. Especially for surface bonds between PE and plastic. The flexibility provide a more secure bond that's easy to clean up with water. Zap Formula 560 Canopy Glue is a similar material that can be obtained from an RC plane shop. Somebody at IPMSOC uses Gators Grip for PE edge joints, particularly for metal antennas on AFVs. He swears by the flexibility to ensure those sticking-out bits aren't knocked off with the first brush of an errant appendage...
  4. Perhaps an email to the OC Register might turn up something useful?
  5. As others pointed out, read the instructions with an eye towards painting and sub-assemblies. For painting, what should be painted before or after some assembly step? For sub-assemblies, which of them can be worked on independently of others?. As an example, in a current builld (Airfix 1/48 P-51D), I worked on the radiators/scoop assembly, underwing fuel tanks, and tail surfaces while working on the cockpit. Working on includes dry-fitting for as near-perfect fit as I can manage, I can almost always work on dry-fitting, especially when I'm working on subjects usually described as short-run kits. To be sure, paint chemistry can affect timing. As I use lacquers, paint drying is not a significant issue for me.
  6. Hm, the error showed up before 1 Jan 2020, so I'm not sure I'm buying that explanation. As a 4 decade veteran of SW development, every member of the Invision SW development and testing teams should wear a Cone of Shame for a week.
  7. Yo Steve, The "Condensed" display on the Unread Content page is broken. Regardless of how the "Condensed" or "Expanded" toggle is selected, the expanded display is always shown. This error was apparently introduced in a SW update from Invision that you dutifully applied around Christmas. Fortunately, a more recent update from Invision fixes this. TIA -- dnl
  8. I'm not sure there are equivalents in those paint brands for these colors. Mr Color does have some brushable and burnishable metallics for a variety of metals. MRP (Mister Paint) does have an apparently wide set of metallics like Alclad. AMMO by mig Jimenez appears to have some of the colors. HTH -- dnl
  9. I always prime with thinned Mr Surfacer 1200. I thin it to the same consistency as I do for paint, which means about 1% milk or a little thinner. While it will fill small scratches, it leaves fine detail intact. It produces a wonderfully smooth coat. Doesn't need any sanding at all.
  10. There is actually white toner for lasers now. Ex-pen-sive though. Apparently not a single-pass operation, either. I have cut white decal paper using my Silhouette Portrait cutter in the past, so I'll continue doing that...
  11. I found them at the LHS. But also try Hobby Lobby or art stores.
  12. I'd bet that's a fabrication of the screen writers, but it does in represent a key factor. In Normandy '44, Holland describes the near immediate replacement of equipment. Cleaver in Pacific Thunder as well as Hornfischer in Last Stand of the Tin Can Sailors describe the plentiful supply of well-trained aviators and aircraft. Parshall describes the enormous GDP differences and fleet expansions in his lecture on The Untold Story of the Battle of Midway.
  13. Notice the inner gear doors in the above photos aren't in consistent positions?
  14. I had one years ago. The plastic rack and pinion gears eventually failed. A good unit is available version Vanda-Lay Industries.
  15. dnl42

    1/48 B-17 series from Hk

    Brookhurst Hobbies, in Garden Grove, CA, had at least one on the shelf.
  16. Welcome to the forum! As suggested, you could use a photo hosting site, like dogbody's choice of https://www.flickr.com/ or my choice of https://postimages.org/. Alternately, you could reduce the size of images to fit the ARC limit. I resize my images to 640x480, so they often, but not always, fit the ARC limit. Nonetheless, I usually post from postimages, like this photo Here's the same photo directly uploaded.
  17. While I don't use MRP, I've been using Mr Color for years. A couple of hours is fine for masking; I do detack the tape on a cutting mat or the clean palm of my hand.
  18. Looks like Some Body is working on it... <html> <head> <meta http-equiv="Content-Language" content="en-us"> <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=windows-1252"> <meta name="GENERATOR" content="Microsoft FrontPage 4.0"> <meta name="ProgId" content="FrontPage.Editor.Document"> <title>New Page 1</title> </head> <body> <p>test of ARC homepage</p> </body> </html>
  19. Congratulations on the paper and your degree!
  20. The reason this thread surfaced again was because some FINE "member" is desperately trying to look legitimate. I've reported the post. Hopefully they'll be dealt with...
  21. This is looking great! I completely agree with your hands-on building comment.
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