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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. I like Microscale Industries Micro Flat and Micro Satin products. Brush on directly or thin with water to airbrush (this is what I do). My current sig has models using this stuff. HTH -- dnl
  2. Maybe you can fix it. I've just stripped a complete model because I was unhappy with the base coat. I had primed with Mr Surfacer and then airbrushed Alclad. I was able to strip the paint using Mr Color Thinner applied with cotton pads and swabs. To be sure, I have models with errors large and small. The AT-6 in my current signature has 2 horribly wrinkled wing stripes. The key is to learn. In those cases, it was what not to do, but hey, that's learning.
  3. To measure line, wrap line around a large dowel or other cylindrical object. The turns should be snug but not stretched. Think 10, 20, or 30 turns, to get a band around 1/4 to 3/4 inch wide. Measure and divide by the number of turns.
  4. What is the part, what paint are you using, and how are you trying to apply it? I wonder if you are trying to apply too thick a coat of gloss paint? Gloss white paint is well-known to behave like this. You can get a single coat to cover. And agree, you can get some acrylic primers. The grit should be quite fine, depending on the part, anything from a low of 600 to 3600 and even higher. You should look at a pack of sanding pads, like these or those. They usually start around 1500 and go up to 12000. Also, manicuring buffing sticks should be in your toolbox. HTH -- dnl
  5. I suggested a drill set as you'll be able to see what works for whatever you're going to use for rigging and how you're going to use it.
  6. You should have a pin vise and a set of drill bits. I have a set with #61 through #80 bits, but there are other sets too. You can buy replacement drills from Walthers. I have a Walthers Double-ended Pin Vise that I greatly prefer to several others I have. HTH -- dnl
  7. You might also be able to find the canopies on Squadron's website. In case you can't find them directly on the Squadron site, you may succeed by asking Google to find them on their site. I've gotten a few no-longer-listed canopies from Squadron via this back door (such as the AT-6 canopies in my current sig photos).
  8. Nice work! Excellent job on integrating the metal and plastic.
  9. Paint. I prefer Mr Color as my primary paint. The are also burnishable Mr Color metallics. These can be airbrushed or brushed with hairy sticks. Airbrushed can be left as-is. Either application can be gently burnished to a high shine. Thinned Mr Surfacer is a fine primer to airbrush atop anything. There is a Mr Resin Primer if you prefer rattle-bombs. Adhesives. I use CA for resin-resin joints IF AND ONLY IF I can perfectly align the parts before bonding. I use epoxy for resin-resin joints otherwise. If I can clamp, I like J-B Weld because I can get quite a thin bond, but it needs 24 hours to set. Otherwise a 15 minute epoxy will do. I use CA for PE-resin joints for an edge-surface bond. For a surface-surface bond, I prefer an acrylic glue such as Gator's Grip or Formula 560 Canopy Glue due to their flexibility. The longer explanation for this is resin and CA have different thermal expansion rates. The flexibility of the acrylic glue means that I don't risk rupturing the bond along CA's weakest orientation, which is shear. This is also true for PE-plastic joints. HTH -- dnl
  10. I use arcylic glues such as Gator Grip or Formula 560 Canopy Glue for bonds like this. You can also use PVA or white glue. All of these dry clear, are water soluble for easy clean up, and are flexible, so they don't stress the bond. The key will be to form the PE belts so they lie in exactly the position you want, which is no mean feat. You'll need to bend them carefully. If you don't form them to the right drape and they want to spring up, you'll have a harder time with them,
  11. I wonder if some masks would help? Do you know what font would be appropriate? When do you need this by?
  12. Just got Kindle versions of The Good Shepherd (basis for the upcoming Greyhound movie) and Mission Beyond Darkness for $0.99. Amazon had other $0.99 offers.
  13. Foam-tipped swabs are used when cotton threads cannot be tolerated https://www.amazon.com/Lab-Swabs/b?node=2620830011 And for cosmetics https://www.amazon.com/Swabs-Foam-Keyboards-Cosmetics-Cleaning/dp/B004Q2C0MO
  14. Yeah, been there on that kit.. I was able to get another sheet from Attack Squadron, strip the model, and redo with a lighter paint. Grey is a tough color to print, as it's printed by utilizing the white beneath. You might try contacting Brengun as they are now producing the kit.
  15. Here's the authoritative WHO site https://www.who.int/emergencies/diseases/novel-coronavirus-2019 They publish a daily situation report https://www.who.int/emergencies/diseases/novel-coronavirus-2019/situation-reports Worldwide cases exceeded 100k by Mar 7, 200k by Mar 19, and 500k by Mar 28 (today).
  16. I have seen occasional glitches; one of them required intervention by postimage staff. OTOH, your browser could be the glitch source. You could try restarting your browser. If you're running Windows, a reboot may be in order. If the glitches still occur, contact postimage as there could be something horked in you're account.
  17. Just made a quick check, and I don't think any are missing. I have ~900 photos. They're generally 1024x768 or smaller, mostly 640x480. Any observations on what's missing or what's left?
  18. This is coming along nicely! Looks like the foil is working for you. If you want to try something else, take a look at the vacuum seal from Costco's coffee cans. They are 5 mil Al sheet discs that might be ideal for this. Malleable enough to form yet strong enough to hold up to some handling. I've formed all manner of parts with this material, including slats. I'm happy to share some if you don't have a ready source. LMK in a PM and I'll see if I'm allowed to mail something out.
  19. Not an expert and no images, but AFAIK, the canvas covering prevented foreign object damage (FOD). Don't know why it wouldn't be present.
  20. Joe is right. This forum is for (mostly) non-operational scale models. If you Google for these motors, you'll find RC model sites that are more appropriate. FWIW, these are 2-cycle glow engines. Probably for flying model aircraft, but they could have water-cooling heads for fast model boats. They need a fuel supply and a battery to start. Once running, the battery is no longer needed as their glow plug maintains enough heat to continue to ignite the fuel. An RC hobby shop would be able to help.
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