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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. Please tell me that was an, uh, pet, that got out of its home.
  2. Shipping issues might be some basis. Perhaps also international competition. At the end of the day, there was some decision based on return on investment and opportunity costs. I can't imagine the Testors business moves RPM's needle very much. This does beg the question why RPM acquired Floquil, Testors, and whatever other hobby paint lines they gobbled up. At any rate, they lost me to Mr Color years ago. They're very much in a different class
  3. Bought a book from @Flex4eg on Oct 17. Received it today (Oct 21). It was extremely well packed and exactly as described. Completely delighted
  4. That's quite excellent work! What kit?
  5. I've done the same, well, with Mr Color Thinner. As noted, doesn't harm the model. Chrome needs to be stripped to remove the underlying clearcoat that obscures detail. Do the gold parts suffer the same issue? If not, perhaps just prime and apply the finish coats? Dude! 😱
  6. I see a lot of Mr Color & related bottles. I suppose the competition provide the finishing supplies?
  7. You can't push on a rope. We'll, unless you stiffen it somehow. I routinely use CA to stiffen the end of cotton or synthetic threads. Cut the end at an acute angle and it's very easy to use. Sadly, this doesn't appear to work on EZ line. Another approach is to install the threads before assembly, which means you need to deal with them during assembly and painting, I did this with the upper line where it entered the aft hull of this LCM3. I put enough thread for its full run in the hull and glued toggles on both ends of the thread. The toggle left outside the hull allowed me to pull the rest of the line out; the toggle on the inside of the hull prevented me from pulling the bitter end of the thread out of the hull. The other lines shown in this photo were threaded at the very end. Another approach is to drill through holes and then thread after assembly. I've never this, but it's been demonstrated in numerous WIPs. You could you make a 'plug' with a through hole; 0.3mm Albion tubing might be best for this. You would need to drill a 0.3mm hole in the plastic, thread the EZ line through the tube ensuring the EZ line length will be correct, glue EZ line into the tube, and then insert the tube into the plastic. It would give the appearance of a through-fuselage insulator, especially if it stands a little proud of the surface. Grumman F4Fs and F6Fs most definitely had such fittings. I use a 6 mil ceramic fibre for antennas and rigging. It's stiff so I just need to drill holes aligned with the direction of the 'wire', cut the fibre to length, insert into the holes, and glue in place with PVA, CA, or epoxy. HTH -- dnl
  8. dnl42


    I agree, one of the most beautiful aircraft every flown, and you're done her memory proud! I'm still hoping AMG will come through with a 1/144 version. The last email from them suggested Spring or Summer this year. Like Douglas Adams, I suppose they love the whooshing sounds deadlines make as they fly by...
  9. I've also ordered from XMM. I was quite happy with the service and am delighted with the product.
  10. I have replacement props along with a B-29 Mothership conversion for the Fujimi B-29 and Dragon X-1 from Muroc Models But, Brengun also have propellers http://www.brengun.cz/e-shop/1-144-accessories-19/proppelers-for-b29-superfortress-723
  11. The Fujimi B-29 is indeed supposed to be the best. BUT, it has square prop hubs, so you'll need to source alternates. The Amodel Lancaster is also supposed to be the best. But, you need to bring your modeling skills to bear on Amodel kits. I have the B.III Dambuster boxing; they also have B.I/B.III and 10MR boxings, in addition to a Lancastrian. Amodel have some great subjects, but only the Lancaster meets your criteria. AFAIK, we desperately need a decent B-17. Don't know anything about the others...
  12. ...many really nice threads are going to once again lose all their pictures.
  13. Wow! Seems like the old leadership team is back. You know, the team that was shocked at the backlash of their fine $300/year plan.
  14. dnl42

    B-17 Down

    Hm, local news (12:03 ET) hasn't reported fatalities, but they are waiting for a report at Hartford Hospital. They did note AP reported 2 fatalities. Here's the local TV feed. Very sad...
  15. Two more oddly-named, but reliable, Ebay dealers are jackrabbit9820 (https://www.ebay.com/str/thebasementmodelshop) in Ohio and animetropolis (http://www.ebaystores.com/animetropolis) in Taiwan. My LHS carries Mr Color, so I always try them first. But, as Curt said, some colors are tough to get.
  16. First and foremost, I don't freehand camo, so you may well be past my admittedly middling skills. With that, I find 0.5mm (HP-TH) and 0.3mm (HP-CH) to be ideal. In addition to primers, I use the 0.5mm nozzle for base colors, metallics (Alclad and Mr Color), and clear coats. I haven't found anything so fine that the 0.3mm can't handle. I do spray thin paint, like 1% milk consistency, at ~15psi (1 atm), and around 0.25 to 1.75 inches. I always rely on multiple coats unless I'm over coating for color variation. HTH -- dnl
  17. The RC community has had these for years. Some relevant links http://modelsoundsinc.com/index.php - they apparently have aircraft sounds. http://www.ramrcandramtrack.com/rcsound.html - I have one of these in a Midwest 1/12 Lobster Boat; the lighting is just on-off controlled. https://www.harbormodels.com/sounds.html
  18. And the name of the book is? Flying Fortress, by Edward Jablonski is an excellent comprehensive reference on its design and development
  19. Excellent work! You NEED to bring that out to OrangeCon!!! It's here in sunny southern CA on Oct 12.
  20. Nice fix! This is just outstanding work! Water soluble putties after indeed best for this type of work. If you haven't yet tried it, do take a look at Vallejo in the tube. It has a fine tip that helps fill it tight spots.
  21. Are decals for "Ye Olde Pub" available? What scales?
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