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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. Dang! I don't recall paying anything near that much for that Iwata kit! I bought it at either Coast Airbrush in Santa Ana, CA or Art Supply Warehouse in Westminster, CA. FWIW, Coast Airbrush is currently offering it for $85, which still strikes me as way more than I paid for it. Hm, some of the tools in the maintenance kit are available individually, but not those.
  2. I've used Mr Color Leveling Thinner successfully with Humbrol and Colourcoats enamels (my tins are from WEM). Seriously, use Mr Color Leveling Thinner for thinning and leave that big cheap can for cleaning your airbrush. I haven't yet had to replace the o-rings in an airbrush. I have had to lubricate them, which I do as a matter of course in a full breakdown cleaning session a few times a year. My only airbrush "consumables" have been needles and nozzles
  3. This looks quite clever. Will have try this out.
  4. Use that non-hobby stuff for cleaning your airbrush. It's great for that, cheap and strong.
  5. For those who don't recognize the above reference, please watch this video (part 1) and this video (part 2). If you do recognize the reference, you'll want to watch them again. Mark Rober is one of my personal heroes!
  6. Not per the bottle I suspect Humbol is similar.
  7. Microscale Industries Micro Mask. I'll use it to fill in border masks (like the Canopy Survival Kit) as well as a complete mask. A sharp #11 blade enables me to trim it to the frame line. I prefer this over tape because it's so easy to trim. I primarily use Mr Color, but also Alclad, Colourcoat, and Humbrol. HTH -- dnl
  8. Whatever names mama wants! Oh, and congrats! Enjoy your remaining modeling time. It could be 15-20 years before you get back...
  9. Postal services used to be used much more that today. I used to get all my bills in the mail. I would pay all my bills by writing a check and sending said check in the mail. Today, I don't receive nearly as many paper bills and every recurring bill is paid electronically. I'm down to 10, maybe 20, bills paid by year. Perhaps 100 mailed letters per year. That's on the order of a 75%-80% reduction of outgoing mail. I don't know anybody that wouldn't claim a similar reduction. Per the USPS: Package volumes, on the other hand have increased greatly. But there are many competitors who, in my direct experience, offer a more reliable service.
  10. Good thing it's marked FRAGILE! That was probably the clue that it needed "special handling."
  11. The purpose of the clear coat under decals is to ensure the surface is smooth and glossy with the goal of eliminating silvering. A paint surface that is smooth and glossy already presents the appropriate surface for decals, eliminating the need for a clear coat. That is exactly my direct experience with Mr Color paints, including Mr Surfacer as a primer. My expectation of lacquer paints is that other lacquers, such as MRP, could work equally well. To be sure, it's not just the paint--application technique is very important. The paint needs to be properly thinned; I thin to about the consistency of 1% milk or a little thinner with Mr Color Leveling Thinner. This thinner has a drying retardant already mixed in, allowing the paint to dry a little more slowly and flow a little more smoothly. Air pressure needs to be appropriate to the paint consistency; I spray at 15 psi (~1 atm). The paint volume and distance must ensure the paint is just wet when it hits the surface; I spray at 0.25 to 2 inches from the model, making sure that I can see the paint is actually wet when it his the surface. I use a grazing light to make sure I see this. The paint layer needs to be even; I build coverage in multiple thin layers until I have complete coverage. When I do want a gloss coat, I apply one final wetter gloss coat with the paint, again, only after I have full coverage. Don't just blast the paint on looking for a single pass to provide full coverage. That will often cause uneven coats, particularly with gloss white and yellow. Spray too far away and you get a rougher texture. Even further away you get orange peel or even a gritty surface. HTH -- dnl
  12. Just to be clear, Gunze has an Aqueous Hobby Color line and a Mr Color line. I believe the former are water-soluble paints while the latter are lacquers. I only use Mr Color.
  13. I'm with @seawinder, use Mr Color Clear C46. I always thin Mr Color to the consistency of 1% milk, or a little thinner. I never thin by ratios. BTW, I haven't found it necessary to gloss coat Mr Color gloss colors (including FS 1XXXX) in advance of decals; the reason is quite simple, Mr Color paints always go on very smoothly. I will gloss coat over semi-gloss and flat colors, however, more out of an abundance of caution rather than their apparent surface texture. For flat and semi-gloss coats, MSI Micro Flat and Micro Satin work really well. Again, thinned to the consistency of 1% milk or thinner. I thin all paint to that consistency.
  14. Thanks for responding. I finished that model a while ago--I went with Mr Color Yellow FS13538 C329. Ah, the reference to The Military Shop in LB definitely brought back memories. Gary had a wonderful shop...
  15. I had exactly that problem when building some CBI C-47's. I could only get a couple of partial confirmation shots--and I'm just trying to use decals!
  16. I agree, this is one of the more important questions.
  17. I always shoot pix with my phone. My process is: Shoot photo on phone Automagically uploaded to Google Photos Manually select and download to my desktop computer Prepare the image for posting (resize, rotate as needed, strip EXIF data, and rename). I wrote a Python script that does all of this; PM me if you want it. Upload to postimage Paste link into thread
  18. What problems did/do you have with the kit decals? They went down quite nicely. Hm, I now recall that I painted the USCG Chevron. I used Model Master automotive colors per discussions I found on the interweb. To Kursad's point, though, there's only the Amodel kit AFAIK.
  19. I too thin Mr Surfacer quite a bit more--to the same consistancy as paint. I spray at the same pressure as paint,15 PSI. I use my 0.5mm airbrush unless I'm doing some small parts, then it's the 0.3mm nozzle.
  20. dnl42

    Satin Finish

    I like Microscale Industries Micro Satin. Water soluble. I thin to the usual consistency (1% milk or a little thinner) and airbrush with my 0.5mm airbrush. Also says its brushable. You didn't ask, but I also use their Micro Flat; it's the flattest I've found. For gloss, I use Mr Color Clear C46.
  21. Looks like you need to find this Furball sheet...
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