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dnl42

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Posts posted by dnl42

    Help with preparing model for paint

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    What is the part, what paint are you using, and how are you trying to apply it?

     

    I wonder if you are trying to apply too thick a coat of gloss paint? Gloss white paint is well-known to behave like this. You can get a single coat to cover.

     

    And agree, you can get some acrylic primers. 

     

    The grit should be quite fine, depending on the part, anything from a low of 600 to 3600 and even higher. You should look at a pack of sanding pads, like these or those. They usually start around 1500 and go up to 12000. Also, manicuring buffing sticks should be in your toolbox.

     

    HTH

    -- 

    dnl

    NOS parts for out of production kits source?

    in General Discussion

    Posted · Edited by dnl42

    You might also be able to find the canopies on Squadron's website. In case you can't find them directly on the Squadron site, you may succeed by asking Google to find them on their site. I've gotten a few no-longer-listed canopies from Squadron via this back door (such as the AT-6 canopies in my current sig photos).

    First time resin builder

    in Airliner Modeling

    Posted

    Paint.

    I prefer Mr Color as my primary paint. The are also burnishable Mr Color metallics. These can be airbrushed or brushed with hairy sticks. Airbrushed can be left as-is. Either application can be gently burnished to a high shine.

    Thinned Mr Surfacer is a fine primer to airbrush atop anything. There is a Mr Resin Primer if you prefer rattle-bombs. 

     

    Adhesives.

    I use CA for resin-resin joints IF AND ONLY IF I can perfectly align the parts before bonding.

     

    I use epoxy for resin-resin joints otherwise. If I can clamp, I like J-B Weld because I can get quite a thin bond, but it needs 24 hours to set. Otherwise a 15 minute epoxy will do.

     

    I use CA for PE-resin joints for an edge-surface bond. For a surface-surface bond, I prefer an acrylic glue such as Gator's Grip or Formula 560 Canopy Glue due to their flexibility. The longer explanation for this is resin and CA have different thermal expansion rates. The flexibility of the acrylic glue means that I don't risk rupturing the bond along CA's weakest orientation, which is shear. This is also true for PE-plastic joints.

     

    HTH

    -- 

    dnl

    Photoetch application question

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    I use arcylic glues such as Gator Grip or Formula 560 Canopy Glue for bonds like this. You can also use PVA or white glue. All of these dry clear, are water soluble for easy clean up, and are flexible, so they don't stress the bond.

     

    The key will be to form the PE belts so they lie in exactly the position you want, which is no mean feat. You'll need to bend them carefully. If you don't form them to the right drape and they want to spring up, you'll have a harder time with them,

    Recommendations for water slide decals

    in Tools 'n' Tips

    Posted

    Yeah, been there on that kit.. I was able to get another sheet from Attack Squadron, strip the model, and redo with a lighter paint. Grey is a tough color to print, as it's printed by utilizing the white beneath. 

     

    You might try contacting Brengun as they are now producing the kit.

     

     

    "Lee 1" wreck (DOH)

    in Work in Progress

    Posted

    This is coming along nicely!

     

    Looks like the foil is working for you. If you want to try something else, take a look at the vacuum seal from Costco's coffee cans. They are 5 mil Al sheet discs that might be ideal for this. Malleable enough to form yet strong enough to hold up to some handling. I've formed all manner of parts with this material, including slats.

     

    I'm happy to share some if you don't have a ready source. LMK in a PM and I'll see if I'm allowed to mail something out.

    I have some model airplane/helicopter engines i need help with.

    in Airliner Modeling

    Posted

    Joe is right. This forum is for (mostly) non-operational scale models. If you Google for these motors, you'll find RC model sites that are more appropriate. 

     

    FWIW, these are 2-cycle glow engines. Probably for flying model aircraft, but they could have water-cooling heads for fast model boats.  They need a fuel supply and a battery to start. Once running, the battery is no longer needed as their glow plug maintains enough heat to continue to ignite the fuel. An RC hobby shop would be able to help.

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