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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. Another example of different decisions on non-visible parts. Here are the Quickboost exhausts for the Tamiya 1/48 P-51D (bottom) and the Airfix exhausts (top). First off, the visible part is different. I haven't looked to see which is (more) correct. Here are the non-visible sides. Quite a bit different. With a little fettling, the Airfix part fits in well The part for the Tamiya kit would need some work to fit in and then more work to properly fill the space. Right now, I'm leaning to cleaning up and drilling out the exhausts on the Airfix part and leaving the Quickboost part for the Tamiya yet in the stash...
  2. As @Mstor wrote, It Depends. First and foremost, how accurate are the two kits? One or both of them could have errors. Also, even if both are externally accurate, internal structures usually aren't due to significantly out-of-scale plastic thicknesses and different approaches to non-visible parts. Consider this P-51 landing gear. Both kit manufacturers have the opportunity to get the struts correct. They would also have the opportunity to get the outline and structure of the door cover. But look at the door edge. On the Airfix kit, that part is 0.03 in, which works out 1.44 in. While both of your hypothetical kits would necessarily make similar compromises, the thicknesses chosen by Revell are most likely different from Tamiya. To be sure, this example wouldn't likely effect PE or resin. The more important differences would occur in internal structures, such as within fuselage and wings. As a more concrete example, I bought a firebomber conversion for a 1/48 TBF. I believe the resin conversion was intended for the AM kit. Unfortunately, the parts were over-sized for my Revellogram kit.
  3. IIUC, Fedex doesn't send packages from a location to a hub and then back to the same location.
  4. Oh, I understand--notice I didn't even say you'd need to pay postage!
  5. I agree, they're quite nice and worth the cost. If anybody wants those SAC gear I showed, PM me...
  6. Keep track of the route on Google Maps or some such--it could be good for laughs. I had a delivery from the northern San Fernando Valley to down here in the OC--maybe 60 miles. It went from the origin to LA (good) to Las Vegas (??), back to LA, to Manhattan Beach (??) where it stalled for several days before miraculously appearing on my porch. I've been hearing of more and more "Grand Tour" deliveries by the USPS. One wonders why...
  7. I don't know about an F-14 in Bethpage, but there is one on the Intrepid Museum in Manhattan (NYC). FWIW, F-14 assemblies were built in Bethpage--the big electron beam welder was in Plant 1. The aircraft was built out in Calverton. Edit: I may not have known, but Google did...
  8. US ebay store https://www.ebay.com/str/thebasementmodelshop Taiwan ebay store http://www.ebaystores.com/animetropolis I've used both, quite happy with them.
  9. I generally fully mask to avoid overspray when spraying large portions as 'm manipulating airbrush and model. However, when I spray smaller areas, I usually only mask exactly what is needed and obvious overspray areas. For example, the night undersurface of a Lysander III SD. BTW, Cowling Color is good for that. For some recent touch-ups, when I decided very late to add clear wing-tip lights, I only masked the clear areas and repaired the camo free-hand. Maximum distance in that instance was probably no more than 1/2 in. I spray in my garageworkshop with the door open. Having written that, Mr Color is a lacquer, and provides a much thinner coat than Vallejo. I used Vallejo for a specific trim color on a model last year and ended up stripping the entire thing because it looked sooo thick compared to the Mr Color base coat...
  10. Here's a comparison of the LG from Monogram's 1/48 F-105D. This is the nose gear; it's in two halves, left and right. Here's the MLG The Monogram main gear actuators The SAC main gear actuators All of the SAC bits And finally G-Factor. These are white bronze. The actuators, off the to side of each MLG, are very different looking compared to both the Monogram and SAC bits. Here is the MLG from a walkaround on ARC HTH -- dnl
  11. Hardware store lacquer thinner is best for cleaning your airbrush.
  12. @SBARC I use the Unread Content pages, but since January or so, the "Condensed" listing has been busted. Condensed or expanded produces the same output. This is a forum SW problem; another site using the Invision SW applied some update to correct the problem.
  13. The tabs are likely sufficient to hold the weight of the flaps. They may well not be strong enough to be jostled during construction. If you're going to leave the flaps open, put them on last, after all the decals have been applied, but before the flat coat if you're going to do that. I do recommend a clear coat atop the decals to protect them and to even out the finish. Speaking, well, writing, of decals, do make sure the paint surface is very smooth before applying decals to avoid "silvering"--tiny air bubbles captured under the decal. Enjoy!
  14. First off, welcome aboard! I'm going to guess that you mean their 1/48 MiG 15 bis Fagot B, because, well, you didn't say and those are the instructions I found. Is this what you mean? If so, then it's telling you to cut off those 3 (?) tabs if you want the flap to be closed. I presume the tabs allow you to pose the flap open. This is not an uncommon technique to allow parts to be in multiple positions. I know nothing about this kit, but do make sure you test fit the part in the closed position if that's what you want. I've had a number of models where the "designed to be opened" parts weren't a good fit when in the "can be optionally closed" position. Also note the "Make hole" notation. You should look ahead to see what might need those holes. In this case, it's most likely to allow you to hang something from the wing. If you do indeed want to use those parts, don't forget to drill the holes. As they didn't indicate the drill size, measure the other part. This is also a common technique enabling optional parts to be installed without forcing you to fill holes you don't need. Make sure you find the indentations showing where the holes are to be located. As 4 locations are shown, you should look if you want 1, 2, 3, or all 4 holes drilled. Again, this will be based on what could be mounted there. Another common location for such "drill here" notions is the upper part of the fuselage for optional antennas. Good luck!! HTH -- dnl
  15. Dang! I don't recall paying anything near that much for that Iwata kit! I bought it at either Coast Airbrush in Santa Ana, CA or Art Supply Warehouse in Westminster, CA. FWIW, Coast Airbrush is currently offering it for $85, which still strikes me as way more than I paid for it. Hm, some of the tools in the maintenance kit are available individually, but not those.
  16. I've used Mr Color Leveling Thinner successfully with Humbrol and Colourcoats enamels (my tins are from WEM). Seriously, use Mr Color Leveling Thinner for thinning and leave that big cheap can for cleaning your airbrush. I haven't yet had to replace the o-rings in an airbrush. I have had to lubricate them, which I do as a matter of course in a full breakdown cleaning session a few times a year. My only airbrush "consumables" have been needles and nozzles
  17. This looks quite clever. Will have try this out.
  18. Use that non-hobby stuff for cleaning your airbrush. It's great for that, cheap and strong.
  19. For those who don't recognize the above reference, please watch this video (part 1) and this video (part 2). If you do recognize the reference, you'll want to watch them again. Mark Rober is one of my personal heroes!
  20. Not per the bottle I suspect Humbol is similar.
  21. Microscale Industries Micro Mask. I'll use it to fill in border masks (like the Canopy Survival Kit) as well as a complete mask. A sharp #11 blade enables me to trim it to the frame line. I prefer this over tape because it's so easy to trim. I primarily use Mr Color, but also Alclad, Colourcoat, and Humbrol. HTH -- dnl
  22. Whatever names mama wants! Oh, and congrats! Enjoy your remaining modeling time. It could be 15-20 years before you get back...
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