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dnl42

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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. Here's a comparison of the LG from Monogram's 1/48 F-105D. This is the nose gear; it's in two halves, left and right. Here's the MLG The Monogram main gear actuators The SAC main gear actuators All of the SAC bits And finally G-Factor. These are white bronze. The actuators, off the to side of each MLG, are very different looking compared to both the Monogram and SAC bits. Here is the MLG from a walkaround on ARC HTH -- dnl
  2. Hardware store lacquer thinner is best for cleaning your airbrush.
  3. @SBARC I use the Unread Content pages, but since January or so, the "Condensed" listing has been busted. Condensed or expanded produces the same output. This is a forum SW problem; another site using the Invision SW applied some update to correct the problem.
  4. The tabs are likely sufficient to hold the weight of the flaps. They may well not be strong enough to be jostled during construction. If you're going to leave the flaps open, put them on last, after all the decals have been applied, but before the flat coat if you're going to do that. I do recommend a clear coat atop the decals to protect them and to even out the finish. Speaking, well, writing, of decals, do make sure the paint surface is very smooth before applying decals to avoid "silvering"--tiny air bubbles captured under the decal. Enjoy!
  5. First off, welcome aboard! I'm going to guess that you mean their 1/48 MiG 15 bis Fagot B, because, well, you didn't say and those are the instructions I found. Is this what you mean? If so, then it's telling you to cut off those 3 (?) tabs if you want the flap to be closed. I presume the tabs allow you to pose the flap open. This is not an uncommon technique to allow parts to be in multiple positions. I know nothing about this kit, but do make sure you test fit the part in the closed position if that's what you want. I've had a number of models wher
  6. Dang! I don't recall paying anything near that much for that Iwata kit! I bought it at either Coast Airbrush in Santa Ana, CA or Art Supply Warehouse in Westminster, CA. FWIW, Coast Airbrush is currently offering it for $85, which still strikes me as way more than I paid for it. Hm, some of the tools in the maintenance kit are available individually, but not those.
  7. I've used Mr Color Leveling Thinner successfully with Humbrol and Colourcoats enamels (my tins are from WEM). Seriously, use Mr Color Leveling Thinner for thinning and leave that big cheap can for cleaning your airbrush. I haven't yet had to replace the o-rings in an airbrush. I have had to lubricate them, which I do as a matter of course in a full breakdown cleaning session a few times a year. My only airbrush "consumables" have been needles and nozzles
  8. This looks quite clever. Will have try this out.
  9. Use that non-hobby stuff for cleaning your airbrush. It's great for that, cheap and strong.
  10. For those who don't recognize the above reference, please watch this video (part 1) and this video (part 2). If you do recognize the reference, you'll want to watch them again. Mark Rober is one of my personal heroes!
  11. Not per the bottle I suspect Humbol is similar.
  12. Microscale Industries Micro Mask. I'll use it to fill in border masks (like the Canopy Survival Kit) as well as a complete mask. A sharp #11 blade enables me to trim it to the frame line. I prefer this over tape because it's so easy to trim. I primarily use Mr Color, but also Alclad, Colourcoat, and Humbrol. HTH -- dnl
  13. Whatever names mama wants! Oh, and congrats! Enjoy your remaining modeling time. It could be 15-20 years before you get back...
  14. Postal services used to be used much more that today. I used to get all my bills in the mail. I would pay all my bills by writing a check and sending said check in the mail. Today, I don't receive nearly as many paper bills and every recurring bill is paid electronically. I'm down to 10, maybe 20, bills paid by year. Perhaps 100 mailed letters per year. That's on the order of a 75%-80% reduction of outgoing mail. I don't know anybody that wouldn't claim a similar reduction. Per the USPS: Package volumes, on the other hand have increased greatly. But there are ma
  15. Good thing it's marked FRAGILE! That was probably the clue that it needed "special handling."
  16. The purpose of the clear coat under decals is to ensure the surface is smooth and glossy with the goal of eliminating silvering. A paint surface that is smooth and glossy already presents the appropriate surface for decals, eliminating the need for a clear coat. That is exactly my direct experience with Mr Color paints, including Mr Surfacer as a primer. My expectation of lacquer paints is that other lacquers, such as MRP, could work equally well. To be sure, it's not just the paint--application technique is very important. The paint needs to be properly thinned; I thin to about th
  17. Just to be clear, Gunze has an Aqueous Hobby Color line and a Mr Color line. I believe the former are water-soluble paints while the latter are lacquers. I only use Mr Color.
  18. I'm with @seawinder, use Mr Color Clear C46. I always thin Mr Color to the consistency of 1% milk, or a little thinner. I never thin by ratios. BTW, I haven't found it necessary to gloss coat Mr Color gloss colors (including FS 1XXXX) in advance of decals; the reason is quite simple, Mr Color paints always go on very smoothly. I will gloss coat over semi-gloss and flat colors, however, more out of an abundance of caution rather than their apparent surface texture. For flat and semi-gloss coats, MSI Micro Flat and Micro Satin work really well. Again, thinned to the cons
  19. Thanks for responding. I finished that model a while ago--I went with Mr Color Yellow FS13538 C329. Ah, the reference to The Military Shop in LB definitely brought back memories. Gary had a wonderful shop...
  20. I had exactly that problem when building some CBI C-47's. I could only get a couple of partial confirmation shots--and I'm just trying to use decals!
  21. I agree, this is one of the more important questions.
  22. I always shoot pix with my phone. My process is: Shoot photo on phone Automagically uploaded to Google Photos Manually select and download to my desktop computer Prepare the image for posting (resize, rotate as needed, strip EXIF data, and rename). I wrote a Python script that does all of this; PM me if you want it. Upload to postimage Paste link into thread
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