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dnl42

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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. I have replacement props along with a B-29 Mothership conversion for the Fujimi B-29 and Dragon X-1 from Muroc Models But, Brengun also have propellers http://www.brengun.cz/e-shop/1-144-accessories-19/proppelers-for-b29-superfortress-723
  2. The Fujimi B-29 is indeed supposed to be the best. BUT, it has square prop hubs, so you'll need to source alternates. The Amodel Lancaster is also supposed to be the best. But, you need to bring your modeling skills to bear on Amodel kits. I have the B.III Dambuster boxing; they also have B.I/B.III and 10MR boxings, in addition to a Lancastrian. Amodel have some great subjects, but only the Lancaster meets your criteria. AFAIK, we desperately need a decent B-17. Don't know anything about the others...
  3. ...many really nice threads are going to once again lose all their pictures.
  4. Wow! Seems like the old leadership team is back. You know, the team that was shocked at the backlash of their fine $300/year plan.
  5. dnl42

    B-17 Down

    Hm, local news (12:03 ET) hasn't reported fatalities, but they are waiting for a report at Hartford Hospital. They did note AP reported 2 fatalities. Here's the local TV feed. Very sad...
  6. Two more oddly-named, but reliable, Ebay dealers are jackrabbit9820 (https://www.ebay.com/str/thebasementmodelshop) in Ohio and animetropolis (http://www.ebaystores.com/animetropolis) in Taiwan. My LHS carries Mr Color, so I always try them first. But, as Curt said, some colors are tough to get.
  7. First and foremost, I don't freehand camo, so you may well be past my admittedly middling skills. With that, I find 0.5mm (HP-TH) and 0.3mm (HP-CH) to be ideal. In addition to primers, I use the 0.5mm nozzle for base colors, metallics (Alclad and Mr Color), and clear coats. I haven't found anything so fine that the 0.3mm can't handle. I do spray thin paint, like 1% milk consistency, at ~15psi (1 atm), and around 0.25 to 1.75 inches. I always rely on multiple coats unless I'm over coating for color variation. HTH -- dnl
  8. The RC community has had these for years. Some relevant links http://modelsoundsinc.com/index.php - they apparently have aircraft sounds. http://www.ramrcandramtrack.com/rcsound.html - I have one of these in a Midwest 1/12 Lobster Boat; the lighting is just on-off controlled. https://www.harbormodels.com/sounds.html
  9. And the name of the book is? Flying Fortress, by Edward Jablonski is an excellent comprehensive reference on its design and development
  10. Excellent work! You NEED to bring that out to OrangeCon!!! It's here in sunny southern CA on Oct 12.
  11. Nice fix! This is just outstanding work! Water soluble putties after indeed best for this type of work. If you haven't yet tried it, do take a look at Vallejo in the tube. It has a fine tip that helps fill it tight spots.
  12. Are decals for "Ye Olde Pub" available? What scales?
  13. dnl42

    Postimage test..

    Hey, it all worked! I don't find the "Hotlink for forums" to be particularly useful. But, what I do find useful is to insert the "Direct link", then select the image and link it using the "Link" Edit: that's similar to how the images in my signature work, but in that case, the link is to the album 🙂
  14. I thin all paint (Mr Color, Colourcoat, Humbrol, and Tamiya) to the consistency of 1% milk. Take a look at Alclad consistency. I spray at about 15psi (1 atmosphere). Spray thin coats.
  15. Which paint and what nozzle size? I've had some problems spraying Alclad with a 0.3mm nozzle, so I mostly use my 0.5mm nozzle for metallics. I have no problems spraying regular Mr Color in either 0.3mm or 0.5mm nozzles.
  16. If you can get to the BMW Museum, you can get to the Deutsches Museum via subway.
  17. That's exactly my use profile! Not sure exactly how long I've had it, but it's been more than a few months.
  18. Mr Color is my favorite paint, so I have tried their Mr Metal Color on some sample parts. Your description of application, buffing, and handling is correct. I haven't yet used it on a model, but I will when the opportunity presents itself. I usually use Alclad for metallic coats. They spray well* (in my 0.5mm nozzle), are robust to masking, decal applications (I use Micro Set and Micro Sol), and take a clear coat well. They are somewhat sheer, so always prime before using them. I use white, gray, and black as undercoats. I use Mr Color C33 Gloss Clear for gloss finishes and Microscale Industries Micro Satin and Micro Flat for semi-gloss and flat coats respectively. For oleo and chromed parts, I recently started using Molotow Liquid Chrome. Their pen applicator is easy to use. Wonderful stuff!!! * The Alclad Chrome is fragile, and will rub off in handling. I've never tried masking it.
  19. I strongly suggest you stick with Mr Leveling Thinner. Use that hardware store stuff for cleaning the airbrush.
  20. I always try my LHS first. After that, I've ordered Mr Color from Spruebrothers, and 2 Ebay sellers: animetropolis and jackrabbit9820. Good experiences with all. @metroman gave excellent advice. Pay attention to technique and Mr Color will provide an excellent finish. The finish is so smooth, I don't usually clear-coat before applying decals over Mr Color or Alclad.
  21. Mr Color is a truly wonderful paint. It sprays on a thin and beautifully smooth coat. So smooth that I don't usually use a clear-coat before decals anymore. But, it's a lacquer. You need good surface prep given the thin coat. I prime with thinned Mr Surfacer 1200 or 1500. It dries quite fast, so I don't find it suitable for brushing. Thin with Mr Leveling Thinner to 1% milk consistency, spray close-in, say 5mm to 45mm. Make sure it hits the surface slightly wet. Build coverage with thin coats.
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