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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. Nice work on that cockpit! Love the seat. The F4F has an oxygen bottle just aft and slight to starboard of the seat. Do you know if the F6F is similar?
  2. That was indeed a fun topic! Props to the organizers!
  3. @K2Pete. You totally rock, dude!
  4. That worked fine! Oh, and good choice on the Master barrels--they're amazing!
  5. Welcome to the forum! Any model of a Grumman aircraft is obviously a brilliant choice! I'll enjoy following along!
  6. Aw, man! I suppose this was too good to be true...
  7. Wow, this is really good work! Great attention to detail. The ideal complement to your excellent work!
  8. Paint colors from light to dark. Paper masks Print the marking guides from the kit or decal instructions at 1/48 scale and then cut out the different colors as masks. This works great for the surfaces relatively normal to the view, like the wings, stabilizers, and slab-sided fuselage sides/tops. Curved surfaces and transitions between surfaces, such as the upper and lower halves of, say, a Spitfire or Thunderbolt will additional more freehand work because those marking guides only show projections of the pattern onto top, side, and bottom views. You need to adjust the freehand parts until the visually match the views. Next you need to determine if you need hard or soft edges to the camo pattern. For hard edges, I'll double some Tamiya masking tape, put on the bottom of the mask, and attach the mask to the model. For soft edges, I roll out Silly Putty nto ropes, stick the rope to the bottom surface of the patches, and drape the silly-putty+paper masks onto the model. As noted above, the purpose of the Silly Putty rope is to raise the mask, encouraging a soft edge. Try to hold the airbrush normal to the paper for uniform soft edges. @martin_sam_2000 explained the other technique I use. Which method I use depends on the camo pattern, model shape, and my mood... Airbrushing Surface prep is important, so get those polishing pads and make sure the surface is as smooth as possible. Lacquer paints give the thinnest coats and dry very fast. They do not brush well Enamel paints are thicker, and take days to cure. They brush well. Acrylic paints are the thickest coats. They dry quickly too. I use Citadel and Games Workshop acrylics for brush painting details. I prefer Mr Color. It's a lacquer and provides the smoothest, thinnest coats. I always use the paint's airbrushing thinner, so that's Mr Leveling Thinner for Mr Color paints. I also use AlClad paint, which is pre-thinned. Stir the paint well until completely mixed. Thin the paint to the consistency of 1% milk with the manufacturer's thinner. Adjust the airbrush to 14 psi with full air flow (i.e., not static pressure). Spray from 0.25" to 2". Spray very thin coats, building up coverage. The paint should be just wet when it hits the model surface--hence the close-in spraying. If you get orange peel or a powdery finish, you're spraying too far away and the paint is drying before it hits the model. If you need a gloss coat, build coverage with thin coats then apply a final wet gloss coat. Never just blast on a gloss coat. It will be a disaster.
  9. Hm, the CGI looked somewhat cheesy, I mean as in the realism of the rendering, not the action itself. Perhaps I just more readily accept it in mainstream SciFi? IMHO, the best SciFi movie of all time is Arrival. It's quite amazing when you pay attention to the detail. Almost, but not quite, entirely unlike a Star Wars shoot-em-up.
  10. All items in my stash, that may or may not exist, are in a Google spreadsheet. This enables me to check at home or on the road, on my desktop, tablet, or phone. There are tabs for kits, AM, and books. Multiple kits are OK, but multiple copies of the same book is dumb as a post....
  11. I'm currently reading Normandy '44 by James Holland. It's been very inclusive of all sides, both from overall viewpoints during the preparations on both sides to battle-specific comparisons. It's well documented and well written.
  12. Would that Tiger be an F-5 or F11F? The others mentioned give me hope for some 1/48 F11F love...
  13. Tamiya v. Airfix 1/48 P-51D is old v. new. @TheRealMrEd has a good idea, kits of the same subject regardless of era or manufacturer. Perhaps you could call it "This v. That", which indeed includes "Old v. New".
  14. https://www.nytsyn.com/archives/photos/1269725.html https://www.nytsyn.com/archives/photos/1103132.html
  15. Completely agree, you'll be very happy with Albion Alloys tubing. The tube walls are very thin, 0.1mm. I highly recommend their telescoping tubing sets, they're extremely versatile.
  16. I just got an email from MicroMark touting a color decal package including an HP laser printer, Ghost White Toner, and laser decal paper. That white toner is ex·pen·sive! Furthermore, it looks like multi-color printing requires 2 printing passes: one pass with the CMYK toner and another with the white toner. Has anybody used this? What are your experiences?
  17. Nice work! That work on the light, motor, and sound sequencing is quite well done.
  18. FYI, just passing info along, no commercial interests, &etc... Free Time Hobbies just sent out an email blast; they have the kit available for pre-order.
  19. Mold the PE to the surface shape. Ideally against the plastic surface but you may need some other object to make the PE shape more consistent with its destination. Then, as @muradsuggested, pin it down with a pointy object in one hand while you apply CA with an applicator in the other hand. Paper is fine as an applicator but I prefer a metal tip for a knife handle, like these from RB Productions.
  20. I use Mr Color lacquers. I haven't found a clear-coat is needed before applying decals over Mr Color because they go down so smoothly. To be sure, you do need a clear-coat atop the decals to ensure they are protected and fixed in place. You especially need a gloss coat over decals if you're going to apply weathering. As you noted, you want to make sure the gloss coat beneath weathering finishes isn't affected by the weathering media. As I've been using Tamiya and Vallejo washes, Mr Color C33 clear works just fine. In addition to Mr Color C33 for gloss coats, I use Microscale Industries Micro Flat and Micro Satin respectively for the final flat and satin finishes; these thin with water. That's exactly how the models in my current signature were completed. If you don't have a really smooth finish direct from Mr Color, or Alclad for that matter, you have a surface preparation or paint application problem. A gloss coat should fix that for you this time. Lacquer paints provide the thinnest paint coat. Enamels provide a medium thickness paint coat, while acrylics are thickest--too thick IMHO. With that, surface preparation is critically important for lacquers. I use 6-cut Swiss Pattern needle files and polishing pads (up to 12000 grit) to get the smoothest possible plastic finish. Once I'm satisfied with the plastic surface, I'll give the model a wash-down with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol applied with cotton pads and cotton buds to ensure a clean and pristine paint surface. I thin Mr Color, and all other paints, to the consistency of 1% milk using the paint's airbrush thinner. For Mr Color, I use Mr Leveling Thinner. I spray very thin coats at 1 atm (~15 psi). Adjust this pressure while air is blowing out the airbrush at full volume. I spray at distances between 0.25 to 2 inches. Use a grazing light when you paint so that you can see the paint hitting the surface. It should be wet when it hits, and dry quickly after that. So quickly that you can apply multiple coats in one session. If you want a gloss paint finish, apply thin coats until you have coverage and then apply a final wetter gloss coat. This is especially important for gloss white and yellow. Don't try to blast on a gloss color coat in one pass!!! Before color paint, I prime with thinned Mr Surfacer 1200 applied exactly as described above. This provides a beautifully smooth finish that hides slight surface scratches. I use a 0.5mm nozzle for primers, base colors, clear coats, and Alclad or other metallics. I use a 0.3mm nozzle for detail work. HTH -- dnl
  21. Nice! That really looks the part for an in-flight display!!!
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