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Everything posted by dnl42

  1. As you thought, a "silver paint" is the typical model approach to "aluminum lacquer". The goal is to make those areas "look like paint" to contrast with the prototype's unpainted surfaces. I believe the correct name for the paint is aluminized lacquer. On an NMF P-51D, this paint was at least used in the area of the areas of the wings that were puttied and smoothed over to maintain laminar flow. Drawings of the wings are on ARC and elsewhere.
  2. Yes. I did that once, and it curdled into a nasty goop inside my airbrush. Need a full teardown to clean out...
  3. @Mstor has sage advice. I have an Iwata Power Jet Lite. Also never regretted the purchase. It replaced a tool compressor, which was quite noisy. There are other good brands of compressors, too. Make sure it has auto-start. My compressor doesn't have a tank--don't miss it for a moment--and just one hookup. I use quick-connect fittings to switch between my 2 airbrushes. Quality tools also applies to airbrushes. I really like my Iwata airbrushes, but there are other fine brands, too. As @Mstor noted, you'll spend more time fussing with poor tools rather than spending time on learning to correctly use an airbrush. That takes practice. In general, lacquer paints are the thinnest coating, enamels are thicker, and water-based acrylics are thickest. The thinner the paint, the better paint surface you'll need. Lacquers and acrylics dry quickly. Enamel paints need to cure. If you use paint that needs to be thinned, I strongly suggest you use the same brand thinner, at least to start. I use Mr Color (lacquer), Alclad (lacquer), Colourcoats (enamel), Humbrol (enamel), and Tamiya (alcohol) paints. Don't waste money using paint thinner to clean your airbrush. I can use hardware store lacquer thinner--in a gallon can--to clean the airbrush after use based on the paints I use. If you decide to use Vallejo paint, don't dare use lacquer thinner to clean the airbrush. Medea Airbrush Cleaner works just fine to clean up after Vallejo; water also work.
  4. Very cool! I remember seeing the LEM concepts in the History Center in the Plant 35 basement in Bethpage. They also had the concepts for the Shuttle, which was ultimately awarded to NAA.
  5. Hm...The P-51D instructions call out part "E2" for the canopy and "E01" for the windscreen. The F-51D instructions call out part "E03" or "E05" for the canopy and "E01" for the windscreen. Looking at the F-51D clear parts, there are canopies labeled "E02", "E03", and "E05" as well as windscreens "E01" and "E04". Assuming the P-51D instructions should have called out part "E02" instead of "E2", then the F-51D kit could work for you. HTH -- dnl
  6. I like Microscale Industries Micro Flat. It's the flattest that I've found. Thin with water to airbrush. Dries quite fast.
  7. I just looked at an X-29, it's all while. No indication of yellowing. Perhaps yellowing is more pronounced in a rattle can. I had excellent results airbrushing Testors clear lacquers. I am completely delighted with all Mr Color paints--but they demand very good airbrush technique. My 1st use was a disaster, but I've learned to spray them well now, and they're my primary paint choice by far. I'm also happy with MSI Micro Flat and Micro Satin; I do find I need to thin these with water lest they bead up.
  8. also: different vertical stabilizers, but same rudders; 2 different canopies. I can look in the F-51D box to see if the P-51D box parts are present.
  9. If you're comfortable with Dullcote, you can get bottled Testors clear lacquer in gloss, semi-gloss, and flat. Thin it with Testors lacquer thinner and you're good to go. I used to use that exclusively, but switched a couple years ago to Mr Color Clear gloss (C46) thinned with Mr Color Leveling Thinner, Microscale Industries Micro Satin thinned with water, and Microscale Industries Micro Flat thinned with water. I thin all paint to the consistency of 1% milk (or a tad thinner), spray at 15 psi (1 atm), from about 0.25 - 2 in. I generally use a 0.5mm nozzle (Iwata HP-TH) for primer, base, metallic. and clear coats. I rely on a 0.3mm nozzle (HP-CH) for most others usages. Tamiya Flat Base (X-21) is NOT a clear-coat. You add it to a gloss color to flatten it. If you attempt to use it as a clear coat you'll get a cloudy coat. For Tamiya clear coats, use gloss (X-22), semi gloss (X-35), and flat (XF-86)
  10. 1 will look like a losing proposition as that's all everyone will see 2 could work assuming you're going to go all in on weathering the rest of the aircraft 3 is probably best, assuming Academy will oblige. I wish I had asked when I lost the canopy for a MiG-21MF. 4 get some polishing pads, to 12000 grit, and polish it out. This assumes no "frames" in the vicinity or good control of the polishing pads. This works quite well. I've removed full on seams as well as scuffs from clear parts using this approach. As you start out, it will look like it's getting worse, but patiently going to finer and finer grits will eventually result in nice clear plastic. Start with a grit just finer than what you've already used and step up to 12000 grit. With each grit, you're looking to get a uniform surface finish before you step to the next grit.
  11. If I understand correctly, the Mk1 Tropical boxing, A05129, apparently has all the plastic that was in the A05127 Mk1 kit. You'd need to source decals for a BoB aircraft, though.
  12. Recently finished The Last Chapter: The Facts About The Final Days of Grumman. An informative read for anybody that worked at the Iron Works. Now rereading The Last Stand of the Tin Can Sailors. Very highly recommended! I first got this book for my father, who commanded a Butler-class ship out of Perth Amboy in the Reserve.
  13. That's quite outstanding work. I love the details and extra bits...
  14. Please tell me that was an, uh, pet, that got out of its home.
  15. Shipping issues might be some basis. Perhaps also international competition. At the end of the day, there was some decision based on return on investment and opportunity costs. I can't imagine the Testors business moves RPM's needle very much. This does beg the question why RPM acquired Floquil, Testors, and whatever other hobby paint lines they gobbled up. At any rate, they lost me to Mr Color years ago. They're very much in a different class
  16. Bought a book from @Flex4eg on Oct 17. Received it today (Oct 21). It was extremely well packed and exactly as described. Completely delighted
  17. That's quite excellent work! What kit?
  18. I've done the same, well, with Mr Color Thinner. As noted, doesn't harm the model. Chrome needs to be stripped to remove the underlying clearcoat that obscures detail. Do the gold parts suffer the same issue? If not, perhaps just prime and apply the finish coats? Dude! 😱
  19. I see a lot of Mr Color & related bottles. I suppose the competition provide the finishing supplies?
  20. You can't push on a rope. We'll, unless you stiffen it somehow. I routinely use CA to stiffen the end of cotton or synthetic threads. Cut the end at an acute angle and it's very easy to use. Sadly, this doesn't appear to work on EZ line. Another approach is to install the threads before assembly, which means you need to deal with them during assembly and painting, I did this with the upper line where it entered the aft hull of this LCM3. I put enough thread for its full run in the hull and glued toggles on both ends of the thread. The toggle left outside the hull allowed me to pull the rest of the line out; the toggle on the inside of the hull prevented me from pulling the bitter end of the thread out of the hull. The other lines shown in this photo were threaded at the very end. Another approach is to drill through holes and then thread after assembly. I've never this, but it's been demonstrated in numerous WIPs. You could you make a 'plug' with a through hole; 0.3mm Albion tubing might be best for this. You would need to drill a 0.3mm hole in the plastic, thread the EZ line through the tube ensuring the EZ line length will be correct, glue EZ line into the tube, and then insert the tube into the plastic. It would give the appearance of a through-fuselage insulator, especially if it stands a little proud of the surface. Grumman F4Fs and F6Fs most definitely had such fittings. I use a 6 mil ceramic fibre for antennas and rigging. It's stiff so I just need to drill holes aligned with the direction of the 'wire', cut the fibre to length, insert into the holes, and glue in place with PVA, CA, or epoxy. HTH -- dnl
  21. dnl42


    I agree, one of the most beautiful aircraft every flown, and you're done her memory proud! I'm still hoping AMG will come through with a 1/144 version. The last email from them suggested Spring or Summer this year. Like Douglas Adams, I suppose they love the whooshing sounds deadlines make as they fly by...
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