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matrixone

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Everything posted by matrixone

  1. I agree with ChippyWho. After I switched to using Future as a gloss coat and decal setting solution my decals look more like they were painted on instead of being decals. I stopped using the Testor's gloss and dull coat products...years later the models that had these finishing products on them started turning into a dingy looking brown tint. It will take a few years from now to find out if the Future I now use for gloss coats and the Xtracolor clear flat will work any better than the Testor clear coats but so far so good. Matrixone
  2. Taking a break from my usual aircraft models I built this older Hasegawa 1/72 scale kit of the Ostwind. This model was built SFTB and painted with Model Master enamels, the entire camo scheme was airbrushed freehanded and is not based on any known Ostwind's so this makes this model more of a what-if than anything. Matrixone
  3. Ryan, I am in the same situation you are in, there are no hobby shops where I live and the nearest one to me deals mostly with RC planes and has limited supplies for plastic scale models. Where is your nearest hobby shop? There was (or still is) at least two hobby shops in the Bend/Redmond area and at one time there was a shop in Ontario I used to go to in the 1970's but it might not be there anymore. Matrixone
  4. Netz, Nice painting on your models, if the cheaper thinner works for you and the type of models you build than that's great. On smaller scale models with WWII Luftwaffe paint schemes I have found the Testor's thinner works the best. Larger scale models with single or two color paint schemes its not as critical to use higher quality thinners. Here is what you can do with Model Master paints and the Testor's thinner: 1/72 scale 1/48 scale 1/32 scale All of the above models the camouflage schemes were painted freehanded, no masking unless a sharp line was needed. If the cheaper ha
  5. The Testor's thinner sure sound expensive but the good thing is one of those red cans will usually last me a whole year so I don't worry about it too much. The cheaper WalMart thinner is what I use for clean up. In the past I tried some painting experiments with using thinners other than Testor's with Model Master paints, there were no major problems except for trying to paint fine details and getting a slightly rougher finish, the cheap thinners did not work as well as the Testor's. If you are not concerned with the quality of your paint jobs go ahead and use cheap thinner, but considerin
  6. Thanks Bigasshammm, This kit was released by Revell about 8 or 10 years ago, its been in my stash for a very long time. The airbrush I use is perfect for painting models but at the same time cost very little. I think a lot of modelers really do think they need to spend hundreds of dollars to get an airbrush that can spray fine details but that's not really true, the Revolution BR can spray model paints just as good as any of the high priced airbrushes I own and that's why they are now my backups in case something should happen to my BR. Matrixone
  7. Thanks Tony! I appreciate the comments. Matrixone
  8. Here is my recently completed Revell 1/72 scale Me 262 Zerstorer, the model was built SFTB and painted with Model Master enamels. The camouflage pattern was airbrushed freehanded with my Iwata Revolution BR, for those of you looking for an airbrush that is very capable of precision airbrushing the Revolution BR should not be overlooked. Don't let the lower price of it put you off, this airbrush is ideal for painting Luftwaffe camo schemes or for adding weathering effects. Matrixone
  9. Thanks guys! I am not that pleased with the photography of this model. All my pictures of finished models are taken outdoors and when this model was finished we were getting a lot of wet weather here and I had to wait a few days for the rain/drizzle to stop before I could get my pictures, while it did dry out for a brief time it was still a dark overcast day with no direct sunlight which made it difficult to get the kind of pictures I wanted, what you see here is only the best of a bad group of images. I can do better than this and hope to show you when I post pics of my other Me 262. Ma
  10. Thanks USMC6094, Yes it sure is different looking, this Special Hobby kit is the only one of this aircraft design so I had to make the best of it or never have it in my collection. For an older limited run kit this one went together well, only the too long main landing gear legs spoiled the appearance of the finished model. In a few days I will post pics of another Me 262 I just finished, its built and painted to a higher standard than the model in this thread. Matrixone
  11. Here is my recently finished Three Seat Me 262 Nightfighter built from the 1/72 scale Special Hobby kit. This model was built SFTB and painted with Model Master enamels sprayed freehanded through my Iwata Revolution BR airbrush. Matrixone
  12. Thanks so much for the comments! I have two other models that are about 99% finished, they are a couple of 1/72 scale what-if Me 262's. Matrixone
  13. I own seven airbrushes and the Iwata Revolution BR is the best that I have tried yet for airbrushing freehand camouflage schemes even though its the cheapest airbrush I have, you don't need to buy the expensive airbrush types to get good performance, some of the cheaper airbrushes can do the job just as well. Yes my other more expensive airbrushes can also spray camo patterns freehanded, the biggest difference here is the Revolution BR does the same job but is easier to use. Another Iwata that works quite well is the Eclipse but I think its more expensive than the Revolution BR. Below a
  14. Thanks guys! BTW, the saucer shaped object is thought to one of those flying discs you hear about on many of those programs on the so called ''History Channel''. :)/>/> Here are the last of the pics of the Me 410... Matrixone
  15. Here is my 1/48 scale ProModeler Me 410 I recently finished. The model was built SFTB except for the decals which are a mix of Aeromaster and those from the kit. Paints used were Model Master enamels shot through my Iwata Revolution BR airbrush, the camouflage pattern was sprayed freehanded as was much of the weathering of the paint, the other weathering effects were done with drybrushing enamel paint and a silver artists pencil. Matrixone
  16. Here is this Me 410 model after the flat clear coat has been sprayed on, now you can better see the paint fading I did with the airbrush, doing it this way fades the paint and markings nicely and helps keep the model from having that 'quilt' look that is caused by only lightening the inside of each panel as is often seen on attempts at fading paint on models. A model with desert camouflage would be even easier to do with the technique I use. Matrixone
  17. In the pic below the paint fading I did on the Me 410 can be better seen, also the toned down markings are easier to see. Not much more weathering will be needed on this one except the flat clear coat. Matrixone
  18. I agree with what Bob said, that should take care of it. Something I noticed the past few years is the quality of Badger has dropped, the experience that buffalowings had with his airbrush is similar to others that I know of. My older Badger 150 and 100G airbrushes are still going strong and will probably outlast the new Badger designs. As good as the 150 and 100G are I know they will wear out eventually so I bought some Iwatas as their replacements and am very pleased with them so far. Matrixone
  19. Yuri, I used highly thinned RLM 76 for fading the decals, the model looks better now and as soon as the paint is fully dry it will be getting a thin coat of Future to seal everything which will prevent the thin paint from being rubbed off during handling of the model. Just before I sprayed on the thinned RLM 76 I added a little paint chipping around the wing roots, by adding some of the chipping now and doing the rest later I hope to give the impression the weathering was done over a period of time and not done all at once. Matrixone
  20. Thanks Yuri, Below is the same model after the decals are on it but they have not been faded yet, as they are in this picture they look like decals and are too stark for my taste. Proper fading of the markings will blend them in and make them look almost painted on. Matrixone
  21. What I do to represent sun fading on uppersurfaces of my models is to use a lightened version of the base color and thin it way down and then spray on small mottles or streaks but I try to keep it random to give it a more natural look so as not to give the model the look of a quilt. I should add here that anytime I spray such highly thinned paints I also lower the P.S.I. on the air regulator. Below is a ProModeler Me 410 I am building and in these two pics you can see some of the paint fading I have done on it. After the markings are put on I will be doing more paint fading with the airbrush
  22. Sorry you have to go through this, hope you have a complete and swift recovery. Matrixone
  23. This photograph is colorized so don't base your decision on what colors to paint your model off of this alone. The most likely colors this machine was painted in would be RLM 75/76/83. Bf 109's painted in 75/83 uppersurface colors are easy to spot in most b/w photographs, aircraft painted in the late war green and brown colors have much less contrast to them. But as with anything to do with late war Luftwaffe camo schemes there are always exceptions.:) Paint it as you wish and if anybody says its wrong ask them to prove it. Matrixone
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