JohnG

Glad i found this thread, i've been reverse engineering the LUT from the britmodeller page. What a build! This, for me, was the money shot:

Can someone explain to me how they see an 'N' or 'W' in the logo? I see a triangle in a circle.

Does anyone know of any sites or have any diagrams or plans to scratchbuild any vehicles, not just for carrier decks? I'm looking to have various ground support carts and vehicles for various models, ranging from WW2 German aircraft to 50's-era Canadian jets and a couple of modern Canadian jets and a Herc, all in 1/48. I have a Hasegawa US Ground Crew set with it ground vehicles, but I don't know if they'd be okay to use with Canadian subjects.

I've been using rubbing alcohol to thin and clean tamiya acrylics. It was 70% isopropyl. Now I've just come across 99% isoporpanol, and am wondering if that would be any better for painting. Any input?

SOunds good.... where/how can I order from Karaya? On their site, there's no ordering info. (EDIT: I just checked, and there is ordering info. I'm dumb.) Also, can anyone tell me what's included in the Verlinden set? I'd be willing to splurge on that set if it incorporates cockpit, bombardier compartment and .50 cals. I can't find a decent decription online.

Sorry to resurrect a dead thread, but which of these sets has some decent .50 cals? That's pretty much all I need; I've since found some awesome print references and am going to scratchbuild a lot of the details.

I recently got my first 1/48 B-17G and want to go to town on it. I was hoping you guys could refer me to a specific plane somewhere (if one exists) that was either BMF with camo-painted parts on it, or vice-versa. Also I'd like it to have some cool battle damage, hopefully showing some of the interior. Also, if anyone knows of such an aircraft, would you also know of where I could find the decals for it? Thanks!

Oooh, nice build! I'll definitely be watching this one, I've got the same aircraft and decals on the go right now in 1/48.

Please post plans!

I just got my 1/48 Revell B-17G, and am drooling in anticipation of the AMS indulgence that awaits. I want to go all-out on this one, and was hoping you guys could fill me in on all the various detail sets out there. I'm also currently researching B-17's with some good battle damage and enough photo reference to model it. I hope to be able to scratchbuild as well. Thanks in advance!

I'm not 100% sure, but I thought you could only use alclad over a laquer/enamel base, and not over any acrylic. I could be mistaken, though.

Does this stuff behave any differently than standard Bare Metal Foil? I really want to try this now! Also, how/where do you get a rivet wheel like that? Incredible work, as always Pierre.

Myself, I have a used jar of thinner that I keep for cleaning brushes and for use in washes. I use virgin thinner only for airbrushing. This way, I've only had to dispose of thinner once in the past 8 years.

Even better if you translate from english to another language, then back to english. I tried it wish Japanese once...

Make sure you get a kit with the right ejection seat and the right wheels. I got the CF-104 "Starfighters" kit, with the blue civilian scheme and it has all the right stuff, including wing tanks. I've also heard that the F-104J kit has all the right stuff for a Canadian -104 as well.

I use Bondo... the auto filler. It comes in bigger quantities for cheaper than hobby putty, and is just as good. In fact, Testor's red putty pretty much IS Bondo.

Did just that, and oddly it works perfectly now. All I did was disassemble, and reassemble, and it works now. Thanks for the tip!

I went to do some airbrushing today, and when I pushed the trigger on the brush, no air came out. I disconnected the hose, and ran the compressor and air was coming out full force from the hose, so I know there's no leak in the air hose anywhere... I even immersed the moisture trap in water and ran the compressor to check for a leak, but everything was still airtight. So I know it's not the hose. I disconnected the air valve assembly (pictured in red in my lame diagram) from the airbrush but kept it attached to the air hose and pushed on the pin that lets the air into the airbrush (pictured

Another thing that might be causing a problem is that you might be leaving the decals to soak for too long, which can wash away the glue. I don't know if you're a beginner or not, so I apologize if you already know this and it seems obvious, but I had lots of problems with decals when I was a beginner because I did it all wrong. What I did was simply fill a dish with some water, usually cold or lukewarm, and place the decal on the water face up. Then I'd wait for the backing to soak and fall off, which took awhile. This led to silvering and the decals just sort of breaking free from the mod

I've got that same kit waiting to be built. I started re-scribing it, INCREDIBLY tedious... I'd suggest using Future as your primary gloss coat. Then, when you decal, you can use Future for setting the decals when you apply them, and the Future simply blends right into the gloss coat. I would think using Future over Testor's Glosscote (which is lacquer, IIRC) might having trouble blending together, leaving a non-uniform finish. I've used both gloss coats a lot and prefer Future, hands down. Another product to try that prevents silvering is Solvaset. It's pretty strong stuff, and can warp

Same thing happened to me when I tried it. Not only thast, but also the black doesn't fade into the paintjob at all, just a clean sharp dark line along the panel lines. Awful... don't do it.

In my experience, it's better to airbrush the pre-shading to get that feathered line. I tried pre-shading with a sharpie once, and the sharp transition between the black and the light grey primer showed through the top coat of paint and looked awful. With pre-shading that I;ve done with an airbrush, the black fades into the grey, so it looks a lot better on the finished model.

Wait.. what? There's a 1/48 B-52? Link link link link ohgodohgod

That's exactly what I'm aiming to do! I have plenty of reference, all I need is the cash for the kit. You're forgetting about that jet-engined Lancaster test bed, but that's debatable. It wasn't used as a bomber, but neither was the CL-52. But then again, the CL-52 was all-jet, so your description holds true, I guess. Am I reading too much into this?

drybrushing the highlights should be enough or use an overall very dark gray for the interior, then wash with pure black. conversely, washing a black interiror with a lighter gray will give the appearance of dirt and dust in the crevices.