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Brian P: Fightertown Decals

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Everything posted by Brian P: Fightertown Decals

  1. Unfortunately Cartograf printed the 48087 windshields opaque and not clear. We didn’t find out until a. Few months after the sheet and instructions were printed and approximately 300 sheets were sold. We did an insert and sent them out to everyone that bought the sheet and the distributors to replace the main sheet ones. As well as the distributors sent us a list of customers and we sent them out too. It really sucked that it happened. It we did everything possible to fix it. So all the decals on the sheet are solid. All the insert decals are clear. If you don’t have the insert sheet, I can se
  2. These jets were mostly Dark Ghost Gray. No Light Ghost Gray on the sides or tops.
  3. FYI, Raymond has NOTHING to do with GWH. Raymond owns Lucky Model and Kinetic. GWH is a totally separate company. Y’all should be trying to source parts (as nearly impossible as it is) from GWH. Lucky model doesn’t get spares. And even if you bought from Lucky Model, they have nothing to do with GWH QC. It’s not their responsibility to supply spare parts. And if GWH forgot to pack something, LM isn’t going to know or magically have those parts. And it’s likely that all their stock is going to have the same issue.
  4. Thanks for the suggestions. When I get back to a computer in June, I’ll work at resizing then effectively. brian
  5. I’ve rescaled and rescaled the pictures and they are so badly pixelated at 90kb they aren’t viewable. And screen shots of screen shots of the pictures are actually larger files... anyone have a secret to scaling down iPhone pictures, I’m all ears...
  6. Tamiya 1/48 F-14A with a few parts from the D kit Fightertown Decals VF-24 48002, 48087 Data, and a few other sheets for general markings. Phase Hangar GRU-7 MrSurfacer 1500 Black MRP paints Mk1 KA models pitot and probe ResKit exhausts scratchbuilt base Started this one with a marathon 8-10 hours on Jan 3rd.
  7. I just did a gear up Tamiya Tomcat and thought the doors fit great. You have to brace the front doors somehow but I did front and aft ledges. The rear doors were a perfect fit, for the cove door you have to sand down the inner frame a bit. The small door isn’t made to close and I chose to cut out a piece of styrene based in the kit part shape. Pictures posted on the Fightertown FB page under VF-24 vs TOPGUN. Can’t link the page here and the photos won’t load (too big)
  8. This thread comes up every month or so. You’ll get a lot of info from them. The only seats are Phase Hangar or Eduard Brassin. None of the others fits the kit tub. Aires would require cutting into the seat cushions to get to fit. Quinta beats Eduard/First Look in every way. Any of the probes marked for Tamiya work. I like WANDD. KA nozzles are worth it and beat Aires. And also come open/closed in the same box if you want. I’ve never had a broken set from them. And I’ve never had an Aires set that wasn’t broken. I’d buy ResKit over Aires. Plus Aires tubes don
  9. I am sad to say, I’ve had this happen several times. The message is, give me free products or I’ll post negative things about you and your product... my response was I look forward to what you write. There are plenty of legit and worthwhile people out there that do it correctly.
  10. For the pilot one, you can just use the stock A. Change the top right instrument cluster of you want. I did decals for it on the Fightertown data sheet. Use the PH RIO parts. Boom, done.
  11. For the 2002 VF-143 jets, they were pre-Sparrowhawk HUD. So it had the standard A coaming. The B pilot panel had a different instrument cluster on the upper right. But using the A panel is good enough if you’re happy with it. The RIO panel has the Lantirn PTID display snd left side hand controller. had coaming as the A. Up to you as far as how detailed you want to get. Phase Hangar makes the parts. You could cut out the PTID from a D and add it to the A panel. You could put a square piece of plastic over the kit A TID Fishbowl and and sides. You could use a Eduard piece - just depends
  12. FYI, and once again, for Fightertown Decals, we print our colors to match Navy FS colors. We specify to the printer to use the FS colors from the correct book to print match. Matching them to a specific brand of paint can vary. And on occasion we have sent a paint sample to the printer to match that color. 30140 is the worse color I’ve ever dealt with. Different paint makers vary from a light tan to a dark brown. And none that I have seen actually match the FS color. The closest to the real color is MrColor C526 (but it doesn’t claim to match 30140). And that is darker than you’d exp
  13. It’s easier to go from D to B, than A to B. If you go A to D, you’ll need to get the full Phase Hangar B conversion. And engines and GE engine doors. And wheels. Plus the stuff no box has. Start with the D. The D gives you engine doors, exhausts and front fan. Tails, ECM on gear door, boat tail and above intakes (but not the 4 others), wheels (post 1994), BOL rails, all the bomb racks, Lantirn and GPS dome. You’ll need an A cockpit sprue or aftermarket cockpit. And the TCS and the 4 under intake ECM bumps - which currently aren’t in any Tamiya box. If you’re doing a Late B with HUD,
  14. Cool project. On the wheels, Tamiya hasn’t made the ‘standard’ A/B/D wheel. Only the early pre-1980 one and the late post 1994 one. So if you want that correct, you’ll need AM. Eduard, DEF, Halberd all make great versions of it and I highly recommend them. ResKit, True Details, Wheeliant are all lesser quality or have size issues. For TCS, get Phase Hangar. It’s the only correct sized one. Quickboost also makes a nice one.
  15. Get the Kazan set for the F-14A. It’s made to fit Hasegawa and the castings are exquisite. As far as the spine areas, you aren’t going to find differences in the A/B/D. But the A amd the B/D used different motors so those would not be the same. brian. https://www.kazanmodeldynamics.com/wing_glove_article.html#/
  16. Happy to help and that it’s an easy change. Your build is so cool and the old A wheels are just funky looking haha. There’s a lot of ‘off’ info about the wheels out there. And all the AM makers label their wheels as A type specific and doesn’t help out. can’t wait to see more.
  17. Looks excellent!! Love the paint snd weathering. one note though, why use the early Tamiya A wheels? The kit ‘D’ wheels are actually correct for this jet. The early A tires never made it to the B. There is a lot of bad info out there about the wheel hubs. And they weren’t type specific. - early A only (because the B/D didn’t exist) 1972-late 70s. Out of the fleet by 1981/1982. Blk 100 fresh from Grumman were the last to have them in 1978/1979. -standard A/B/D. Late 70s-early 2000s - Late A/B/D. Mid 90s-2006. First I’ve seen it was 1994. All models. Was interchang
  18. All I can offer is that the sheets we printed had the 35237 printed in FS color from the book. Different paints match differently. And lots of the low viz jets didn’t have full stenciling and data. Sheet we made covered all the markings actually applied to the jets FYI. In 1/32 it isn’t hard to do a set of data and markings on a silhouette or circuit machine and then paint them. I’ve seen a few people doing that. And even though I made the decals, I’ll be doing that on my 1/32 F-14A build for things like NAVY, turbine lines, intakes, dat boxes and Rescue arrows. cheers
  19. So if I want to order 10 of the LAU-7 rails, can you just put them in 1 blister pack and save all the packaging material? I’d just toss it all anyways 🙂 brian
  20. I haven’t tried to match all the artwork but there’s nothing that would not fit on the HB kit if it fits Revell and Kinetic. I’m planning on using the sheet for Puff snd one of the Camo jets. And maybe another 196 jet. There shouldn’t be any issues or size changes needed. brian
  21. I looked and searched and can’t find it. I may have put it on ARC fb but can’t find that either. Fb search is really a POS. Can’t find my own stuff... I did in Dec 23-Jan5. I can email you the pictures...send me your email Fightertowndecals@yahoo.com
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