Devilleader501

Got to fuel this today. Took about 12,000 pounds. The guys were really nice they train here all the time but this was my first time refueling a Blue Angel. I asked about getting a Patch but there were none on the plane to give out. They will have Personnel on static for our air show next weekend so I will get a patch then. we have a pretty big show this year so everyone be ware.

I'm not much of a fan of pre shading but you hit the nail squarely on the head. The very first pre shaded model that has been even close to what I think it should render IMHO. This is the first YF-23 Model I have seen and it is absolutely amazing. This is one of the best models I have seen as far as paint jobs are concerned. Not sure how you achieved the overall paint scheme but dude I am seriously impressed. If Grumman would have shortened this A/C about 5 feet I really think it would have won the coin toss.

Dude seriously your bases are outstanding and I never even knew they made an EA-4 Great job man all I can say is WOW. I really like the tutorial you made for your bases as well. I need to find decals for my TA-4 before I can even start it.I'm hoping to start it in like 2020. I can't even finish the three at my desk now.

Dude I feel your pain. I have been in 3 GB's and still haven't even touched anything for the Shelf Queens yet. I think I'm going to change my name to Staller instead of devilleader. I never seem to have time for the things I love instead I have to make time for the things that need my attention. Marriage is one of them along with kids and fathers who break pelvis's and other family things. Great job on both models by the way. The only time I even get to look at models is after work when I am here on ARC trying to recover my MOJO. Or looking at the shelf queens I have sitting next to my compute

Mother Of Pearl that thing is big. I thought the 1/72nd scale was big but this one is huge. I want one. Love the paint scheme on it. Never seen one camoed before just flat gray I really like the paint and the weathering. Will you flat coat it after decals? Whats in store for the base if anything? Inquiring minds want to know.

I love UMM but after seeing what Chippy just posted I hate the man for being a modeler real men are made from. I have made a few nice models in my time but John Vojtec's models are absolutely amazing. Chippy here is no slouch either. Order from UMM just like you would order from any other trusted site. I had 2 UMM scriber's delivered, one here in the USA and one to a buddy in South Africa. Here it came within a few days. South Africa not sure because the friend didn't get a chance to post back before a month or so after it got there. John is a true modeler and will not do what other on-li

WOW all I can say Uncle is learn to read. I never said anything about disposing of the sludge in the jar only loosening it from the bottom of the jar to mix the paint better. No where did I state that shaking the bottles would slowly eliminate the pigment in the paint. Also I was only showing the technique I use for making sure my paint is mixed correctly where not all modelers have the money or ability to come across a good paint mixer like you have.

Can we make a sticky for one of the most brought up topics in our hobby. Something that everyone can add a little advice to so it's only a click away. I would be glad to start it but Chuck540z has one hell of a how too. Just sayin Josh.

Mixing the paint thoroughly is one of the most important steps. I use nothing but MM line and testors small bottles that can be purchased at Micheals and such. I have noticed the same problem if they are not mixed very well. I use a small dentist pick with a curve to get into the bottom of the jar in question and pull all of the sludge that has settled at the bottom. This is all of the paint and pigment in the jar that settles to the bottom , and normal shaking will not jar it loose. I scrape all of the sides of the bottle making sure to get the bottom and then shake the jar for at least a fe

LMAO you rub the shaft. No pun intended I have been drinking again and just had dirty thoughts in my head. After a night like I just had that was the best laugh I have had in a long time. Also as Steve pointed out another consideration could be Graphite spray that they use in key locks. It is also dry but expensive but I'll bet a can of that is less work than shaving a pencil lead. All things considered moving parts in, out, up, or down un-lubed PUN intended will result in unsatisfactory premature wear and tear. Sorry Steve I am just being a jackass right now. I just think its funny. I have

Actually AX I have been driving in fear for the past week wondering if I was going to meet that fate as well. I drive very cautious now. My truck is an 87 Silverado long bed 4x4. I love this thing, it needs a hell of a lot of work to bring it up to new car status but I am trying. The next thing is tires then paint the body. After that I will tackle the interior. Here is a picture of what my truck looks like now. This is the color I am planning on painting my truck in the next month or two. I'll probably get in trouble for the picture but oh well. As far as the interior, its not too bad

Im looking at your last post and still cant figure out where you messed up. With your scratch building precision I am sure you can come up with a solution. I cant believe the detail in the ejection seat and it's still a rough. Dude you are the man. If you need anymore pictures let me know I am still trying to put them in the cloud just haven't had time. I am really looking forward to more progress. Don't stop you are doing wonderful.

Honestly this has to be one of the topics I have wanted posted the most. You have a serious knack of being a very good modeler but your bases are absolutely fantastic. I wanted to comment a week ago but was unable. This needs to be posted as a sticky so we all have quick reference to it. Great topic my friend I will be employing this very soon.

A new Carrier for the LCAC/ Landing Craft Air Cushioned has been employed. I am not joking when I post this but it is seriously a genius design. Who would have thought an old oil tanker ship would provide this kind of potential. http://www.dodbuzz.com/2015/01/29/navy-builds-a-new-class-of-sea-basing-ships/?ESRC=dod-bz.nl

So I spent the last week working on my 1:1 when I realized I needed to do some drastic work and take things into my own hands. I started with what I thought would be a comfortable build, a bit of time to revel in what I had done, to make things look good, when looking good should have been my last worry. But it quickly came to hurry mode because I didn't know what I had gotten in to. I have taken 2 days off of work and it still wasn't finished yet. Yield the third day and for what its worth it looks good its not great but its done. Mind you all, I pulled and put the engine in my self. I have

Google is your friend is all I can say, Try searching different phrases like AV-8a cockpit or AV-8A take off. Different phrases will yield different results. Most of the pictures I have aren't mine but I will post a few that wont violate patent laws. Most of what I have is AV-8B related but from what I have been searching look really close to what an AV-8A looks. While there are quite a few differences between them I am no expert on the AV-8A. Hope these help.

Crackerjazz not sure how far you plan on going with the detail on this thing but I have a Grip of pictures I can share. Let me know if you need any before I start flooding your thread with pictures. I can also email them if needed. Looking great so far. The band aid trick will certainly look better in 1/24th scale than it did in 1/32nd. I have put mine on the shelf for now pending me getting more detailed pictures of the engine compartment so I can do a diorama with the engine out. I will definitely watch with interest and hopefully gain some much needed mojo while I am at it.

I'm in I suppose. All of these kits haven't been touched in at least 2 years except the F-5F It was in the Bad Guys BG and never got finished. The only thing that has been done to it since the end of the GB is me playing with the base. The EA-6B has a huge amount of AM and the others are out of the box. they have all been shelved due to being frustrated, overwhelmed, and my airbrush being out of commission. The F-5 might not meet the time line but its the closest to being done so I will start with it. After its done I will turn my attention to the A-1H Skyraider and move on from there. I do

Hey Falcon What brand of resin did you use and do you remember what the package looks like and about how much it cost. Also how thick is it when you pour it and what special attention should I pay to the base as far as prep and keeping dust from ruining it. I am very interested in this approach and didn't know home depot sold resin other wise I would have gone that way in the beginning. I have since started stripping the future and other water based clear off of the base. Luckily I used lacquer clear before I tried to seal this base so everything is coming out ok. I will have to repaint the

Dad is doing good he is getting released tomorrow to A local Rehab center in order to facilitate in his recovery. He's still in a great deal of pain but is doing well and is looking forward to getting back on his feet. I appreciate all of your thoughts and prayers. I myself am sore but nothing I can't heal from over time. As for the Ranger it has already been put in the shop to get rebuilt.

Today my wife, myself, my Father and my brother went for a trail ride in our side x sides to celebrate my fathers new Ranger 600 he got for Christmas. We were out about 2 hours putting around in the hills around here and saw 2 big horn sheep. Was the highlight of the day. Thinking things were going to get better out here with such a nice day and getting great pictures of the animals we figured we would head out to see if more of the heard could be found. Until this stop I was driving and filmed the 2 big horns I was driving my fathers rig. After the photo shoot my father decided it was time fo

SK thanks for the advice I appreciate it, what I am looking for is for the base to be very shiny and have a wet look much like you would see on a brand new Super car. Something where you look at it and it just looks 10 feet thick. I want to build up the layers of coating to make everything even, the red star is actually a raised piece of styrene that has been painted. I want the black base, star and everything else to be at one level. So far the star is still protruding above the rest of the display and that is not what I want. I want it to look like you are looking at a piece of glass with

I personally have had about my fill of super glue. I have used it for years and it has done wonders but trying to fill gaps with it is murder. I use fillers now for the problem areas and also use plastic sheet if it is available to fill gaps. I also use Tamiya Extra Thin now. Holly crap what a difference in clean up. Now I know why the guys who do scratch building like Oliver use this stuff. I will probably never go back to super glue unless I need something bonded right now. Super Glue is good for certain things. Chuck540z lives by the stuff and I even bought a bottle of the super glue de-b

I am still trying to figure out how to pull a piece of sprue apart with a candle. I have used a candle, heat gun, torch, Lighter, even boiling water and have never come up with anything consistent with what you pros like to call wires from sprue. What gives dude, Please share your technique. Us Inquiring minds want to know.

I have a project that will require some sanding and re-polishing of a fair amount of Future Floor polish. Is there any way of doing this or should I start over from scratch. It is a base I am working with that has had a full coat of future then a coat of Minwax Acrylic Varnish and then another coat of Future in order to bring the thickness up. I found out the latest coat of future even with a barrier in order to build it up a little thicker has failed and will need to be redone. If I have to sand any of the Acrylic coats down in order to even out the consistency can it be re polished like new