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Sgt Spooky

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Posts posted by Sgt Spooky

  1. I'm sure this has been asked, answered and mentioned here before, but I just can't seem to find anything on it.

     

    Can the Super Hornet carry MERs/IMERs like the legacy bugs when carrying LGTRs? If so, what stations are cleared for it? Also are the LGTRs also mounted straight to pylon as well without a MER/IMER?

     

    Thanks for any info.

  2. Anyone know of any aftermarket 1/48 F-14 drop tanks that are available? I know Royale Resins made a set, but during my modeling sabbatical over the last couple years, it appears they've disappeared (along with a nice corrected Revell Super Hornet center pylon, weighted wheels, and burner can replacements I need too). Trying to finish up an older Revell 1/48 F-14 that's been on hiatus for a few years and realized I had no drop tanks for it.

  3. This probably already been covered, but for the time period you are going for, ranks E-2 (Airman) thru E-4 (Senior Airman) may have a subdued star in place of the normal star, subdued meaning the star color was the same as the background color. From about mid 1976 to 1993 when I joined up, the official ranks only had NCO ranks (E-4 Sergeant to E-9 Chiefs) with non-subdued stars, although the new stripes from 1993 onwards weren't mandatory until 1996, so there was transition period of almost 3 years where you could see both the old subdued star and non-subdued star on junior enlisted airman. The USAF did away with Buck Sergeants in the early 1990s so from then onwards, almost all 3 stripe chevrons produced were Senior Airman stripes.

    This chart should help Enlisted ranks 1947 - 2004.

     

    As far as name tapes, I believe the white on blue tapes were phased out in the early to mid 70s, and replaced by the dark blue on OD green name tapes. But as with all uniform changes, there is sometimes a transition period where you may see both, but not sure as I only wore the latter tapes.

  4. Thanks much for the info. I guess I'll have wait on the nose to be in stock again. Looking at the prices.. looks like I can get everything I need for 3 models for just under or about the price of a Tamiya cat.. sweet.

     

    I took a break from modelling for a bit and it didn't occur to me ask the guru when comes to the monogram kit.

  5. I'm currently building a 1/48 R/M F-14A with two more in the pipeline. Suprisingly, I've never gotten around to building one. I know that everyone is getting their hands on the Tamiya kit of the 1/48 Tomcat right now, but unfortunately due to financial restrictions I have to make due with the kits I have on hand for my next few builds.

     

    The first one I'm building is a VX-4 Vandy One, but I'm rather unimpressed with how it will turn out if I go straight out of the box.

     

    My issues are:

    - looking at the plastic, the nose is badly molded. Not sure if I can sand/fill it back into proper shape.

    - this is the 1997 RoG Black Bunny boxing, but the fuselage halves seem to be lacking some lumps and bumps but not sure.

    - AIM-7s molded to the pylons. Cutting them off would make them look a bit odd from what I can see.

    - the gun vent piece doesn't look right. It's almost as if theres an extra vent molded there.

     

    Any ideas/thoughts about fixing/dealing with these items?

  6. So I'm currently working on an old 1/48 Monogram F-5F from 1985 that I've had stashed away for awhile, and seemed like a good excuse to use the Adversary Ghosts sheet that Fightertown released a few years back. I've been kinda impressed with the work I've done with it, and thought about entering in an upcoming show, but I've run into a bit of quandry. I've essentially built this kit from what I've always viewed as OOB. However, the shows rules on OOB are rather vague and up for interpretation. I haven't gotten much a response from the organizers which has not helped to alleviate the confusion. The only thing that I've really been able to confirm is that aftermarket decal sheets can be used. Beyond that, I don't have much to go on. I always went under the impression that an OOB build cannot have any parts that did not come with the kit that were specifically made to add detail or correct errors in the kit. But then I attended a small show about a year and a half ago where the kit that would've easily won the OOB category was disqualified because the builder chose to discard a part that wasn't to his liking, and instead created his own from bulk styrene.

     

    This is what I've basically done to modify my kit to fit the decals, scheme, and time period I've chosen for the kit:

     

    - Removed the raised detail and scribed recessed lines 

    - Modified 1 of the kits AIM-9Js to resemble an AIM-9M. This required shortening the missile length and making new forward fins from strip/sheet styrene.

    - Scratch built an ACMI pod from two different sized styrene rods.

    - Modified the kits 270 gallon centerline tank to resemble the 150 gallon tank that aggressors commonly sport on the centerline. This was done by removing about an inch of the center section of the tank and gluing the front section back on. Strip and rod styrene were used to add missing details.

    - Cut and glued 2 small styrene tubes to the inside of the exhaust nozzles. The tubes were then capped off with sheet styrene and painted black. This prevents someone from looking down the intakes or nozzles and seeing all the way thru the model.

    - Made a new HUD display glass from clear styrene sheet

    - Antenna on top of the tail made from strip styrene - I later found out the kit does have this part (although not called out in the instructions, which is why I missed it).

     

    Essentially, only the decals are aftermarket. All other modifications/details are scratch built from bulk styrene. Now from my understanding, IPMS judging rules would qualify this as an OOB build, since the only real aftermarket part is the decals. Anyone else have a different take on this?

     

  7. I'll have to have a look. Earlier hasegawa boxings just looked liked -15D's to me like their 1/48 line which is why I wanted to avoid that. Guess I could just use the newer mold and and try to match it up with what a Revell 1/48 -15E looks like out of the box, since that is closer to the period I'm looking to recreate.

    Not worried about decals as I have the superscale sheet with the rollout markings which is what I'm going for anyway.

    Thanks for the input!

  8. I want to build a 1/72 f-15e as the first production Strike Eagle (86-0183), but not sure which kit to use as a starting point. The newer hasegawa kits seem to be accurate for a recent F-15e, but not sure what changes would be needed for backdating. Thoughts?

  9. Makes more sense now. Buddy of mine agreed to trade me a set of quickboost early block stabs so won't need to cut the kit ones. When Jake mentioned the panel lines, it kind put me off from wanting to do it, but if all i have do is add/remove antenna and lights.. Panel lines won't probably be all that visible anyway..

    Thanks for the info.

  10. Correct. There are quite a few panel lines and cockpit changes required to do a Block 10 accurately. Some are more visible than others. It just depends on how accurate and/or anal you wish to be.

    The Early Viper Guide may be of use to you.

    Jake

    Hmm. Wasn't really looking to do a lot of surgery on the kit. Was wanting to do a 174th TFW block 10 bird if it wasn't going to be too much work. Not even sure what block the 'A Plus' is supposed to be anyway. Figured it might be a block 15, but I thought I read somewhere that block 10 had smaller tails than block 15s too.

  11. Kind of a hard to find subject, but I'm looking for any 1/48 KLU F-16 sheets that have decals for 322 Sq that feature their mascot (Polly parrot). I'm open to any sheets out there, but if you have a Syhart 48-045 sheet you'd be willing to part with I would gladly pay for it.

    Please PM me with what you have and asking price.

  12. Very nice indeed. I am assuming this is for the Hobby Boss A-6A kit and not the Revell A-6E kit?

    Also agree with you on the buddy store. It was my understanding the buddy store wasn't always carried, and when it was, it was to provide a backup to the main system, or it was being ferried to another location.

    The leading edge tail light was green on KA-6Ds instead of Red, and lacked the ram scoop at the rear near the tail Also, KA-6Ds were always painted in High-Viz Gull Grey over white to better distinguish them and increase visibility. The only specific KA-6D decals I know of are in the now defunct Afterburner Decals Desert Storm Intruders set, and the Aeromaster Nimitz Air Wing 8 77/78 set, but that one is a bit of a conundrum as the BuNo's in that set are for two KA-6Ds instead of 1 A-6E and 1 KA-6D, but that's another story.

    The Wolfpack pod is the newer A/A42R-1 Refueling System, which I believe was never carried by the KA-6D's anyway. Intruders carried the older D-704 Refueling Store, but some of the newer systems may have made it out to the last of the intruder squadrons in the mid-90s. Cobra company makes(made?) a D-704 pod which some deem inaccurate due to the size of the blisters, and the older AMT boxing of the ES-3A also has a D-704 pod (not sure about the newer Italeri boxing), but I don't know of any other D-704's in 1/48.

    I'm ranting now.. Look forward to this though.

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