Peterpools

MIke Looking forward to following your dual - going to be very informative for sure. Keep 'em comin Peter

Giovanni Beautiful work .. a gem for sure Peter

Thanks Richard going to order and try a roll for scribing Peter

Gabor Stellar work plus your build presentation is easy and a joy to follow Keep ‘em comin Peter

John Simply fantastic detail work. A joy to follow Keep ‘em comin Peter

Thommo Thank you for the info/photo and will be looking into the product tonight Keep ‘em comin Peter

Dylan Nice start on the Mig and thank you for pointing out the need to not rely on the instructions all the time as for the best sequence. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Tonight I’ll post a few pics Peter

Hi Chris Welcome back from the Nats .. i saw some of your photos and the models/work looked great. The Big Cat The wings look just fine and agree the tight seam on the control surfaces is almost invisible - if you didn’t point it out, I would never have known. Not sure about the small nose seam. Keep ‘em comin Peter

Darren Very nice work on the Monogram F-4J. Just can't have enough Phantoms. Peter

Chris suggestions are right on the money and will not only add the desired weathering but give depth the area between the ribs Peter

A while back there was discussion on another forum that a kit manufacturer was working on an new mold 1/32 Hawker Sea Fury. I've forgotten who the company was and haven't heard anything as well. Anyone have any info? I've built the Fisher Sea Fury - a gem, have two Airfix 48th scale Sea Furies but would like to add a few more Sea Furies in 32nd scale to the collection. Thank You Peter

Thank you for posting ... awesome doesn't come close Peter

ED agreed. Lets just end the conversation and let the discussion go back to the best lighting for modeling. Peter

Thommo WOW ... awesome work on the rigging and attaching the wing and floats. Not sure if I missed it but what did you use for the wing rigging, as the floats were done with stretch sprue? Keep 'em comin Peter

Congrats to the guys down in that part of the country. Still a bit too far for me Peter

Ed 70 and closing in on 71! I guess it's what works for each person. I just find once the WB reaches 6000 K there is a bit too much yellow in the mix. I do calibrate my iMac every two weeks with a Colormunki/Display to keep the colors as accurate as I can. For modeling it's way over kill but for photography, I find it a must. Also not sure how a gray card would help with WB, as it is used to check exposure (18 percent reflectance gray )but has no relationship to WB. Peter

Hi Mike Got ya and completely agree on Alclad; it's delicate. AK is a lot more durable and really holds up well to masking and washes. The whole rivet/painted wing discussion use to drive me nuts and now, I'm just ready with the filler to do what is needed. I found the best rattle can for the painted wings: Try Tamiya TS17 ; it's pretty close. if you want, I can post a few photos. Peter

Holy smokes - never thought of that. Peter

Nice work and glad you found an workable solution Keep 'em comin Peter

Nice work on the APU ... thoroughly enjoying following your progress. Keep 'em comin Peter

I've built three Tamiya 32nd scale P-51D Mustangs and used Alcad II on all three over a gloss black base (Either tamiya Gloss Black or Alclad Black base, which I had no luck with). Since then, I started using AK Extreme Metals over Mr Color Gloss Black as the finish for a Tamiya P-47D Bubble Jug and any other applications needing either chrome (oleo's) or a NMF area. I much prefer the AK Metals as they seem to lay down better and are more durable when masking. Of course, the standard P-51 question: The Wings; rivets or no rivets and aluminum lacquer paint? Just seems on every build t

JA Brilliant build of a Oldie but Goldie! Terrific work and bringing the Porsche to life and talking the time to explain what was need to to correct the kit and keep the build rolling. Excellent gloss finish and a job very well done. 🏆 bro

JA OH MOMA, aces on a super build and being your first official race car build: one heck of a job. Bro

Not sure why it would be a better light for modeling. I use three lamps each with 5000-5500K bulbs and the light is right where it should be , especially when painting to keep the colors true. I'll normally adjust the color temp (WB) in either Lightroom or Photoshop and find that even with the lamps I use, the RAW files are a bit cold and I bump them up to about 5600-5700K and the colors look truer. It's a slight difference but I'm very into photography as a hobby and when doing model photography, work hard at getting the colors as accurate as I can. Peter