Otto

I did forget to mention a few things. These are , price of original kit, Accuracy of original kit, Best kit to work with. The best kit to work with is very subjective. That will depend on what you wish to do with your conversion regarding detail and exposure. Price is dependent on the region of the world you live in. Accuracy is also a bit subjective but I think that there seams to be a mutual agreement that the Tamiya and Zvezda are the most accurate. Even the Eduard falls into the "not so accurate" group. For the combination of these factors, I chose the Zvezda. The biggest fault I could fi

I know this is a very old topic but today I can answer with a bit of knowledge about this subject. Not about the G-12 but about the conversion, because I am doing one. Mine is a G-6 conversion. I am doing a write-up about it here. I plan on doing another one from an early G-2 also after this one is done. Mine is actually an Avia CS.99 formally a G-12. https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=57&t=131002 The reason I can speak of this conversion is because I actually attempted the conversion from a few different kits and found out which are the good -bad and ugly. I have finally decided on

You guys are right. It is a 1/50 scale model. Anyone know of a good 1/48 scale F-4E?

Thanks for the input. That helps a lot.

Anyone familiar with this kit? Is it any good at all? Is the shape at least relatively accurate? I know it is an old kit and there are better kits but tis "may NOT" mean that it is still not a good kit. I have put together a lot of old kits that were still good models.

I have a set of overtrees ordered for the new Eduard kit. I also heard that the old Otaki/Arii has a pretty good outline. If that is so, I have one of those and can use the cowling from that on my Eduard kit.

Anyone try to use a Squadron Ju-88 canopy on an ICM Ju-88? I know they are designed for the DML kits but how close would they be? Anyone try it?

There were a few of them but only one made it into the Czech air force after the war. It just had the German markings and codes painted out and re-marked with the Czech roundels. The one or two photos of it are in black-n-white but it has been represented a few times in color drawings. There are still a few remnants left of it in the museum in Prague. The Czech designation for it was S-90. All I can give you is this from a Czech modeling sight. That is about the best info available. https://www.modelforum.cz/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=18164&hilit=Fw+190+cs

This is the irony. I also posted this on a British website and a Czech website. I have received about a dozen replies on each of those vice the two split replies I have received here on a US website. On the Czech website it is a unanimous Eduard is by far the best and on the British I get mostly DML or that they are both bad . So I just ordered a set of overtrees from the Czech republic for the NEW tool A8 kit. That seams to be getting rave reviews. I don't like to buy Tamiya or Hasegawa kits because they are overpriced.

I have since gotten a lot of honest opinions and have found out that both kits are lousy. Both have some major fit issues and I don't feel like putting a bunch of time into this build. I am not a big German fan and the only reason I am interested is because I can put Czech markings on it in the original German paint scheme. I want to be able and build this thing complete over 2-3 days. Since the best reviews are for the new Eduard A4 kit, I will wait until the new A8 is available and buy a set of overtrees when they are available.

Thanks for the help. I will than get the DML kit.

I attempted to do a search here to find something with no luck. For the low price, I have a chance to buy either the older Eduard Fw-190A or the Trimaster/DML kit. Which is the more accurate of the two, or in general which is better? I am quite sure this must have been covered here before but I just can't find anything. I know that the DML kit has been boxed by many other manufacturers including Italeri, Hasegawa, ProModeler, Revell, and others. I just want to build one just out of the box. No frills and thrills.

At this time I am building a 1/48 Grunau Baby II from Fly Models and needed a "cream" color for it. At first I figured it would be RLM 05 which was prescribed before the war for training aircraft. I bought the Vallejo RLM 05 since that is the only one I could find. It is EXTREMELY yellow. Not really much different from RLM 04. I have seen a few color pictures of German training aircraft from before the war and they looked nothing like the Vallejo RLM 05. So I bought the AK Interactive AK009 "Dunkelgelb" and it looks 1000% better. If it is not right on than it is EXTREMELY close. I think in thi

Since I will not be using Vallejo very much if at all I wont worry about it. I am satisfied with the AK paints though. Now we will see how accurate, if at all they are. Up to this point I have not been impressed at all with the accuracy of the Spanish paints.

As little as I have used these new "Spanish" made paints, I have found that the AK Interactive has the best adhesion better than the MiG and Vallejo paints. The Vallejo paints are actually worse in adhesion than the artists paints I buy at Hobby Lobby. But having said that they still adhere quite well. It still takes a lot of fingernail scratch pressure to scrape them off. The Polly Scale, Model Master. AK, and Agama I can't scratch off with my thumb nail. The Agama and AK paints adhere as well as the old Model Master and Polly Scale paints. Due to good authenticity I will always go to the Aga

I have never used a primer under any paint or color on a model. Even though I should have on some yellows. I never found the need to use primer. I mix my own reducer and it also works as a surface wash which helps with adhesion.

First of all there is nothing you can put over enamel but another enamel. That is the main disadvantage. The Tamiya is not a true acrylic. It is an Alcohol based paint. Yes they are much more durable but the colors will never match real world colors. The Modelmaster and Polly scale colors are very good Acrylics but they are all "scale lightened". In their own way, I'm quite sure that all of these paints are fine paints. It just depends on how finicky a modeler is about truth of color. Since I was the SNCOIC in charge of restorations for the Air-Ground team Marine Corps museum in Quantico Va fo

Every one of these came from a bottle marked RLM 82. The only one that is right is the darkest one.

The Modelmaster 82 I have is the right shade but just too light. The 83 is a very bright green. Now that you mentioned that, that is exactly what "Vallejo" did. the bottles of RLM 82 I bought, some were actually RLM 83. I never thought of cross-referencing that mistake.

Yes, as dark as 82 is, 83 is even darker.

I will use the Agama paints where I can. Looking at the pictures above, none of them look even close to RLM 82. 82 is actually a very dark green Unfortunately there is no FS comparison I can compare it to. There is no green dark enough on the chart. If I was forced to pick a FS color than it would be 24052 but more green but that dark.

The ModelMaster RLM 82 Is completely off. It has too much white in it. One of the Vallejo RLM 82 bottles is right on, I just wish it did not dry soft and sticky. I just ordered RLM 82 from MIG. We will see how that is. I also have it from Agama and that is also right on. I just ordered six more bottles from Agama. I only have two left. They are only 10cc. By FAR THE BEST German and otherwise European colors are by Agama. None of their tints are lightened. They are mixed in full density hue. It is up to the modeler how much white they want to add to them.

The ones I tested are the Vallejo Model Air. I used no thinner at all. Every bottle I tested staid sticky for days. Not to mention the fact that out of the multiple bottles I bought of RLM 82, every one was totally a different color. And I don't mean just by a little bit. I just got in my first bottle of AK Interactive and it is just fine. I ordered my first bottle of MiG yesterday to try. If it is as good as the AK, I will be happy. I will never buy another bottle of Vallejo again. In my opinion they are garbage. I'm glad they all don't come from the same blender.

Same here. I spent about $30 at Hobby Lobby on the artists colors and it filled up half a shopping bag. The other funny part is that they are so thick and in 2oz bottles that I will be mixing colors for the rest of my life. and still not run out. LOL

Edit!!!!!!!! I did notice that the Mission models paints are 2 oz bottles for the $6. I am just so used to the 0.5oz bottles that I overlooked that. I might have to give them a try. At least for the US FS and ANA colors.