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dsahling

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About dsahling

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  1. Beginner Airbrushing set-up

    You can use some type of measuring at first, but after a while with some practice you can just sort "eyeball" it, one little trick is to watch how paint on the sides of the color cup flows down. Ultimately, its practice, practice, practice.
  2. Sukhoi Su-57; T-50-5R PAK-FA

    Nice job, I've never been much into 1/72 scale, but like someone mentioned above you really can't tell its 1/72 and I've always thought that is the mark of a really good modeler. If you can make a 1/72 scale look like 1/48 or 1/32 and not be able to notice you've got some good talent and skill. Dan
  3. Beginner Airbrushing set-up

    I'd recommend the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline in the link below, get the 0.2mm and 0.4mm nozzle needles, thin the paint to about the consistency of whole milk. And you can go with those regular compressors (get a regulator so you can adjust the PSI as needed) but unfortunately thet can be very loud and annoying. Or you can invest in a Silentaire compressor (they're pricey, but WELL worth it and much more pleasant to use) Its about as loud as a refrigerator motor or air conditioner. Speaking from experience, I would avoid the Testors Aztek line of airbrushes. Aztk'd are hard to clean, and you frequently need to replace the nozzles and that can get expensive. I found I would spend large amounts of time just trying to get the thing to work properly, often more time tinkering with it than actually airbrushing. After quite a while I gave up and got the Harder & Steenbeck, it sprays beautifully and consistently, very easy to clean, durable and well-made German engineering. Hope this helps https://www.ebay.com/i/172781372021?chn=ps&dispItem=1 (this is a link to the Harder & Steenbeck) Any other questions send me a PM Dan
  4. What's your preferred panel line wash of choice?

    I find some washes can have their uses, but overall its a sales gimmick. Get ahold of some good quality artist oil paints (Rembrandt and Windsor & Newton are pretty good) (some hobby shops sell them just ask), but a local art supply store should be able to help you out then get some odorless mineral spirits (this should usually last you YEARS), then I mix up various washes in little glass or plastic bottles. The trick is figuring out the proper consistency (maybe check out some youtube videos on the subject?). Also either a Future or Tamiya Clear X-22 gloss coat is ESSENTIAL, and give it a solid 2 days to dry/cure; the will let the wash flow better into panel and engraved detail. If the wash is too thin it will run and you'll have a hard time getting it to stay in some of the detail (especially if your gloss coat was too thick, I always say that moment when you tell yourself "I should just add 1 or 2 more coats" is your signal to STOP! If its too thick it won't flow into the recess details via capillary action. Experiment on a scrap/test/old ruined model to see what works. Get a lot of makeup sponges from a pharmacy or makeup store (they're usually pretty cheap) and then q-tips both regular store kind, and having the smaller and more narrow and pointed ones specifically for modeling can help if you have funny corners, crevices, angles, etc. The beauty of working with oils is that what you take off is more important than what you apply, and you can always take the makeup sponge dip it in the mineral spirits and wipe it all off if you aren't satisfied and want to start over. For me, nothing beats oil paint washes when it comes to range of color, streaking effects, staining from rain and weathering, etc. In fact, its one of my favorite parts of modeling getting to remove the excess wash and see all that wonderful panel line detail come to life, it really makes the model "pop" and catch the eye. I know some of the purists will say "but its not on the real planes to such an extent" I would argue otherwise, it also is just a model and using a little artistic license can go a long way. Hope that helps
  5. Which thinners to use for acrylic paint?

    I use Tamiya thinner for Tamiya Paints and Mr Hobby (The Gunze Aqueous line, NOT Mr Color!), for Model Master and Floquil I use a combination of their Universal Acrylic Thinner and about 10% or so of Vallejo 'Flow Improver.' Also, I use a 0.4mm airbrush nozzle when working with acrylics and find that really helps prevent drying at the tip which causes pressure to build up and "blasts" paint everywhere.
  6. Primer might help with improving pain adhesion, but the residue may still remain. I gave up blue tac and most other forms of masking paint jobs (with the exception of bare metal areas) in favor of just learning to freehand airbrush, it give you the best control, coverage, and detail. To me, I can frequently tell the difference between an airplane done by hand and one done with some type of masking.
  7. MiG-29 9-13 Fulcrum C

    Thats art
  8. MiG-29 9-13 Fulcrum C

    Beautiful, makes me want to pick up one of those 1/32 MiG-29 kits....although I have a slightly different idea for my project
  9. So my OCD got the best of me, and I've decided to add the rivet work to the Tamiya 1/32 F-15C. I have a variety of tools I use for riveting, I have the Trumpeter rivet wheel but have found it difficult to use at times, also metal templates. But I've heard some good things about the "Rosie the Riveter" tool and was thinking of getting one or two. For the F-15C it looks like using their "double wheel" tool would really make things easier and more efficient. I had a couple questions though. First, can you use the double rivet tool as a single? (In other words, remove just one of the wheels), does the wheel rotate easily? (The trumpeter one is very stiff to rotate and can make things tricky especially with curved surfaces). For people that have or use this tool what are your thoughts on it? Thanks Dan
  10. How to mask cockpit before painting. Video tutorial

    Sawing blocks of resin and masking canopies are two of my least favorite modeling tasks, I automatically just go with Eduard or whoever else makes the pre-cut masks, its just so much easier and sharper I find.
  11. SU-34 FULLBACK

    WOW, beautiful airplane! Love the colors, I've been hearing good things about Mr Paint, maybe I'll have to try it when I get around to doing this one. Stunning!
  12. I use krylon textured (or other brand), they sell it at most hardware stores for other application, just be sure you have your area masked off well and the rest of the plane masked/covered as well because the stuff comes out fast and goes everywhere (rattle can). Others thin putty and use a stiff bristled brush and "dab" it over the masked areas. Google is your friend.
  13. Su-35/33 and other swiveling Flanker nozzles

    I don't know of a specific aftermarket for the type of nozzle you're referring to (there could be), but when I did my SU-30MKI a few years back I used the regular Aires resin exhausts, but cut them from the casting block at an angle and then filled, sanded, scribed as necessary to accomplish the look of them.
  14. Hasegawa F-22A Raptor 1st FW

    Good looking Raptor! Especially nice job on the weapons bay. I had a blast doing this one, did you find some parts a little "over-engineered" especially with the landing gear? "
  15. Filling engraved panel lines question.

    Since you're re-scribing I'd go with CA glue, if I just have to fill sometimes I'll use putty. The only problem is its brittle nature and its very tricky to re-scribe with putty. There's also milliput, you can re-scribe as it dries to make it easier.
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