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About dsahling

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  1. Does anyone have a Cobra Company 1/35th Mi-24 Hind Cockpit available? PM me for further dealings. thanks Dan
  2. Mr. Paint Question

    So I'm getting ready to enter the painting stage (my absolute favorite) of an F-15C I've been intricately detailing for the past few months. While I have the appropriate Mod Eagle colors in Model Master and Aeromaster I was just wondering about the Mr. Paint set for the Mod Eagle. How accurate are the colors? (Any photos of a Mod Eagle done with their brand would be great) I feel like I've heard Mr. Paint is an acrylic lacquer (similar to Mr. Color) and that it has a strong chemical odor, is this true? Do they have a regular acrylic version of their paints? If so, do they spray well? Thanks Dan
  3. First Airbrush and Compressor

    When I started to get back into this hobby about 6 years ago I did something similar and went with a "starter airbrush" set up. Now if you feel like hobby is something you really enjoy and want to get back in to I would say go with something more high quality. The airbrush I would recommend is the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline 2 in 1 (It's about $180-200, but worth every cent, well made, easy to clean, fix/instal new nozzles) and I personally would recommend a silentaire compressor (The loud noise of most standard compressors drives me nuts, they are pricey but WELL worth it, especially if you have a spouse around). Dan
  4. paint recommendations

    The Vallejo thinner very well may include those two products I just don't frequently use Vallejo much. I used them on one project without the flow improver and had a hell of a time getting them to spray properly. However, I live in Denver, CO at 5280 ft. with the altitude, humidity, pressure are much different and certain paints are difficult to work with. I used to use Mr Color Lacquer but after a while the fumes just got to be too much in an apartment even with an exhaust fan (I'll still use them for Luftwaffe WWII subjects that require mottling camouflage because they work best I find for this kind of work by being easily controlled, tip doesn't clog or dry, doesn't run or get too thick). So now I prime with Stynylrez Primers, and use Model Master acrylics with their brand of thinner with a few drops of the Vallejo Flow Improver and use a 0.4mm nozzle. I find Model Master to be readily available and comes in a wide range of colors that are pretty accurate the flow improver and 0.4mm (as opposed to the 0.2mm nozzle get them to work really well). If you manage to find the Mr Hobby Aqueous range (they don't come in an as many colors as the Model Master line) use them with Tamiya acrylic thinner and they work just as good as Mr Color but without those harsh fumes.
  5. paint recommendations

    Be SURE to use only Vallejo thinner and also their "flow improver" product for acrylic paints (it can actually be used with most other types of acrylic paints with great effect, I can vouch for Testors Model Master, Taimya, and Mr Hobby; it prevents paint from drying and clogging up the airbrush nozzle/tip).
  6. F-15C Stabilator Question

    So I'm working on a highly modified/detailed Tamiya F-15C and I added rivets to the whole fuselage, wings, etc. I have some photos of the Great Wall Hobby F-15C both the actual sprues and CAD images that show some images on the inboard section of the "saw tooth" section of the horizontal stabilators with rivet/screw detail (the part closest to the fuselage). I have the Jake Melampy Eagle book that confirms this on the bottom of the stabilizer but no photos close up enough to tell from the upper surface. I was hoping some former F-15C Eagle mechanics, crew chiefs, or pilots might be able to confirm or deny the presence of rivets or screws on this part? Thanks Dan
  7. So I was hoping to trade my brand new Tamiya F-15C Eagle (all parts except the clear ones are in the original packages, and the clear parts were simply inspected and placed back in the bag) for a Tamiya 1/32 F-15E Strike Eagle. Send me a PM if interested. Thanks Dan
  8. Best panel wash, non enamel based?

    I used to use Flory Models (and they're very good), then I used enamels as they create great staining effects and are good to use for US Navy planes if you used a really durable paint like Mr Color Lacquer. Over time though I found I developed a preference for oil washes, you can control how thin/thick they are, have a large range of color options, you can do "oil dot filtering" effects with them, any brand of good quality oil paints from an art supply store and mineral spirits is what you're looking for. Also searching for different articles about each type here on the forum can be a good idea. Dan
  9. New Decals - VA-65 A-6 Intruders Pt.1 & 2 (1966-91)

    Oh great, now I'll be needing to do another 1/32 A-6E, thanks a lot! :-)
  10. How to Fix Future Pool

    You could try some type of acrylic solvent like windex, or either 70% or 91% isopropyl alcohol, and then gently rotate the area so it "flows" smoothly; but do I test first on a scrap piece of plastic that you'll "pool" future on. I used to swear by Future until I discovered Tamiya X-22 Clear Gloss after someone on the boards told me about it. It might be a bit more expensive to use than future, however, its sprays and lays down BEAUTIFULLY, gives a wonderful glass-like finish, and I think is worth the extra cost. More importantly, you don't have to worry about "pooling" so much like you do with future, just don't blast it out of the airbrush.
  11. Colours for Su-35 camouflage

    If purchasing the right colors is important to you (I have my areas of modeling OCD as well, just not with this) then by all means... However, I've done a couple of very detailed and weathered Su-27 Flankers, and one thing I learned is that unless its basically a brand new aircraft/paint job you won't get "the look" you're after. My best advice is to add a bunch of white to a light blue color, maybe a small amount of light grey too, if needed spray it in a "mottled" pattern over the whole fuselage, then do the same thing with the darker blue and grey color (just eyeball it) and spray those colors. Now you have your "faded" base paint, and can "saturate" the areas with more color to suit your tastes. The way I would do it, was then to spray fairly thinned whites for fading and bleaching effects, and various shades of light greys, blues, etc until you're satisfied. Ultimately, since the Russian paint jobs weather so nicely you're probably going to want to do a lot of "misting" coats with the white to achieve the effect you're after. Here's the article link to LSP. https://www.largescaleplanes.com/articles/article.php?aid=2660
  12. Beginner Airbrushing set-up

    You can use some type of measuring at first, but after a while with some practice you can just sort "eyeball" it, one little trick is to watch how paint on the sides of the color cup flows down. Ultimately, its practice, practice, practice.
  13. Sukhoi Su-57; T-50-5R PAK-FA

    Nice job, I've never been much into 1/72 scale, but like someone mentioned above you really can't tell its 1/72 and I've always thought that is the mark of a really good modeler. If you can make a 1/72 scale look like 1/48 or 1/32 and not be able to notice you've got some good talent and skill. Dan
  14. Beginner Airbrushing set-up

    I'd recommend the Harder & Steenbeck Evolution Silverline in the link below, get the 0.2mm and 0.4mm nozzle needles, thin the paint to about the consistency of whole milk. And you can go with those regular compressors (get a regulator so you can adjust the PSI as needed) but unfortunately thet can be very loud and annoying. Or you can invest in a Silentaire compressor (they're pricey, but WELL worth it and much more pleasant to use) Its about as loud as a refrigerator motor or air conditioner. Speaking from experience, I would avoid the Testors Aztek line of airbrushes. Aztk'd are hard to clean, and you frequently need to replace the nozzles and that can get expensive. I found I would spend large amounts of time just trying to get the thing to work properly, often more time tinkering with it than actually airbrushing. After quite a while I gave up and got the Harder & Steenbeck, it sprays beautifully and consistently, very easy to clean, durable and well-made German engineering. Hope this helps https://www.ebay.com/i/172781372021?chn=ps&dispItem=1 (this is a link to the Harder & Steenbeck) Any other questions send me a PM Dan
  15. What's your preferred panel line wash of choice?

    I find some washes can have their uses, but overall its a sales gimmick. Get ahold of some good quality artist oil paints (Rembrandt and Windsor & Newton are pretty good) (some hobby shops sell them just ask), but a local art supply store should be able to help you out then get some odorless mineral spirits (this should usually last you YEARS), then I mix up various washes in little glass or plastic bottles. The trick is figuring out the proper consistency (maybe check out some youtube videos on the subject?). Also either a Future or Tamiya Clear X-22 gloss coat is ESSENTIAL, and give it a solid 2 days to dry/cure; the will let the wash flow better into panel and engraved detail. If the wash is too thin it will run and you'll have a hard time getting it to stay in some of the detail (especially if your gloss coat was too thick, I always say that moment when you tell yourself "I should just add 1 or 2 more coats" is your signal to STOP! If its too thick it won't flow into the recess details via capillary action. Experiment on a scrap/test/old ruined model to see what works. Get a lot of makeup sponges from a pharmacy or makeup store (they're usually pretty cheap) and then q-tips both regular store kind, and having the smaller and more narrow and pointed ones specifically for modeling can help if you have funny corners, crevices, angles, etc. The beauty of working with oils is that what you take off is more important than what you apply, and you can always take the makeup sponge dip it in the mineral spirits and wipe it all off if you aren't satisfied and want to start over. For me, nothing beats oil paint washes when it comes to range of color, streaking effects, staining from rain and weathering, etc. In fact, its one of my favorite parts of modeling getting to remove the excess wash and see all that wonderful panel line detail come to life, it really makes the model "pop" and catch the eye. I know some of the purists will say "but its not on the real planes to such an extent" I would argue otherwise, it also is just a model and using a little artistic license can go a long way. Hope that helps