dsahling

Members
  • Content count

    548
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About dsahling

  • Rank
    Step away from the computer!
  1. So yesterday I had prepped a helicopter I've been working on as I usually do, mr color primer, model master and tamiya acrylics, with a coat of tamiya clear. Then on went the decals, waited a couple days, and sealed the decals with another layer of tamiya clear. Nothing new. I went to put what I believe was an oil wash, but it might have been an old enamel wash or an old oil wash (but I didn't detect the distinct odor of enamel thinner, I added a little more oil paint to it and then thinned it with mineral spirits. I applied the wash, and then went on to work on another project for maybe about 3 hours and came back to remove the wash with make up sponges and mineral spirits. The wash hardly budged, I would get a tiny amount off as could be seen on the sponge and mineral spirits. But it wouldn't come off AT ALL, I tried applying coat after coat of mineral spirits to "soak it" for an hour, nothing, tried soapy water, nothing. Then when I was about ready to call it a day and start over I went and took my dog for a walk and thought it over and it occurred to me, enamel paints are oil based, and I wasn't entirely sure of which wash I used..... So I had a small amount of enamel thinner left over and tried it...and it worked, but was incredibly slow and required a lot of elbow grease to remove. I used an entire bottle of enamel thinner and a box of q-tips that I was able to pick up at the hobby shop at the last minute. Only tiny amounts of paint got stripped from the vigorous scrubbing, so its fixed, but looks like a very weathered UH-1Y which wasn't exactly the look I was going for as these are mostly clear but it'll have to do, and leads me to believe it wasn't an interaction between the tamiya clear and the wash because the decals held up beautifully and didn't rub off at all!! I've left oil washes on longer than 3 hours and while a little more difficult I have never had this kind of problem. I left the second gloss coat to cure for 48 hours, and like I said it protected most of the paint and I was able to remove the oil wash...The mineral spirits smelled funny, almost like B.O., does that mean they've gone bad? I'm going to toss that bottle and trying mix up some new oil wash. I noticed to that when I applied the wash it seemed "granular" like the oil paints were either old or hadn't dissolved. Anyone have a similar experience? Do you think I used an old enamel wash accidentally and then mixed in the oil paint and mineral spirit and thats where it got all messed up. I spent 6 hours removing this wash, which should've only taken about an hour...thoughts....ideas....????? Should you always mix up a new oil wash rather than save it for months on end? Thanks Dan
  2. I was able to find a photo of the top of the rotor (slightly blurred) but it does appear to be a darker color than the Light Ghost Grey, as someone mentioned here its an opaque coating and understandably would get pretty dirty from use and probably causes the underlying paint to appear a darker shade as such, I decided to wing it (I suppose rotor t? is more appropriate) that one was REALLY bad I know, and just used Dark Gull Grey which looked good enough for me. Thanks for all the help though everyone! Dan
  3. Here's one, the problem is I can't tell if its just a continuation of the paint on the top of the rotor, or a separate coating, and if someone knows the answer if its a separate coating just an approximate color of it, like a darker grey, or light brownish (think Tamiya Buff).
  4. So I'm doing a UH-1Y and I've noticed what looks like some type of protective coating? on the leading edge of the main rotor blades, only thing is trying to figure out approximately what color it is...I've been looking for photos and can see the coating on the bottom, but is it the same on the top of the rotor? Any suggestions? Dan
  5. So I'm doing a UH-1Y and I've noticed what looks like some type of protective coating? on the leading edge of the main rotor blades, only thing is trying to figure out approximately what color it is...I've been looking for photos and can see the coating on the bottom, but is it the same on the top of the rotor? Any suggestions? Dan
  6. Kind similar to the real cost of the plane? :-)
  7. I know some blocks of resin just simply need to be cut with a saw manually, but for grinding and fitting does the dremel make it easier (in some instances obviously)? Thoughts? Dan
  8. One thing maybe some of the F-16 experts out there can help answer. I've noticed a lot of the F-16C Block 50/52 usually the one's assigned to "Wild Weasel" missions have a portion of the vertical stabilizer attachment that looks like a lighter shade of grey, maybe FS 36375, compared to the other medium grey FS 36270, although it could just be a fresh coat of paint? Any thoughts?
  9. keep it up!
  10. Really stunning, very realistic.
  11. Fantastic aggressor, nicely done!
  12. Send me a photo of it too, dsahling1@yahoo.com, I think the Flanker is a beautiful plane, and would be glad to try and offer some assistance with a way to try and fix it if possible. Dan
  13. I appreciate the input, I probably should wear a mask a little more, and I know acrylics aren't good either, its just those lacquer fumes are SO strong I just want to leave the apartment for a while, and acrylics leave much less of an odor and are easier for me to tolerate. Thanks though.
  14. Let me preface this by saying I have no background in engineering, and I'm a "math moron" but I know there are some really talented modelers and software engineers out there. I think the 3D printing technology will really be a great way to create parts, projects, and improvements and over the next 5-10 years will make some major advancements and could really revolutionize our hobby. But that's just my thoughts.
  15. Good point, my mistake on the drag been a while since I've flown😋