dsahling

WOW, how'd you get the paint job done on this one?

The engines were a combination of Alclad IIs, I just took a bunch of colors and mixed them until it looked good. I used the darker shades between the panels, and then gave it misty coats of a burnt metal and exhaust to tone down the whole thing. I then used tamiya clear blue, orange, red, green for the heat staining (its a little hard to see in photos cause I can't find my camera right now and used my phone). As for the decals, I used the basic microset and microsol, then let it dry for about 5 days. Then I took a 4800 grit (or so) sanding sponge then dipped it in water and gently rubbed i

Really nice work there!

I just finished my Trumpeter 1/32nd Su-27, I found pictures of this particular aircraft (Blue 38 Evil Eye). I wanted to do this one because of how heavily weathered and worn out it is, in fact, most of the paint has worn away leaving a combination of grey and yellow primer underneath. I used the zactoman nose (unfortunately I didn't read the directions and the fatal flaw is that I couldn't get the nose properly lined up, canopy set, weapons pylons, linden hill decals, Eduard interior detail photoetch set, and a Quickboost ejection seat and instrument panel. I did the entire camouflage free

Fantastic job on the sharkmouth decal with all the open panels and such!

Ever tried salt weathering? There's an article on the technique in the tips section which is really helpful and it's simply the best way to do weathering. Also, a technique I just learned and tried for the first time (worked pretty good too). After the decals have dried for 4-5 days after using microsol/microset (which I assume yours have) you take a 4800 grit or so sanding sponge dip it in water, and gently rub it over the decal (note: this only works if the decals HAVE NOT been sealed yet) what ends up happening is that the water and gentle rubbing with the sanding sponge "leaches" out th

Really smooth looking paint job!!! Great detailing on the weapons too

In the tips section there's an article about it by Chuck Sawyer, I just tried the technique for the first time on my Flanker I'm almost done with, really works great. I used Mr. Color lacquer paint since its so tough, and I didn't have to use future before applying the salt since the lacquer is waterproof. Anyways, keep up the good work, can't wait to see it!!! Dan

The TPS actually lends itself to a lot of weathering techniques, check out salt weathering in the tips section if you're not already familiar. Dan

What kind of paint job/camouflage is this one gonna have?

I second that!!!! Maybe, just maybe, trumpeter will do a 1/32nd......

I can't wait to see this thing when its got some paint on it, superb.

My opinion based on using the 1/32nd Thunderbirds kit, is that its pretty good. Its not that hard to fit, the only trouble spot is behind the ejection seat where it fits into the fuselage, but its quite easy to remedy. The Aires gear bays are another story. They were designed for the Academy kit, and it will take quite a bit of fitting and modification to get it right. T

Looks great to me!!!! Nice work on putting together what looks like a really complicated project. As for putty and panel lines, yes it is nearly impossible. I try to use putty only in areas where I wouldn't need to scribe like wing joints. However, heres a little secret of mine, use CA glue either by itself or over putty, let if fully cure for a day or so and then sand it. What you will notice is that stuff dries nearly rock hard, and can be quite a pain to sand. However, it is much easier to then scribe panel lines through and most likely wont chip like putty will. Dan

Berkut, that's what I did, I took the 1/48th Su-30MKK kit and cut away parts of the fuselage, some of the gun port doesn't line up perfectly, however, it doesn't bother me that much as I was itching to do that "cloud" style camo

Yes it is, I recently completed one and will be posting pictures soon as I have some more decaling to complete. There might be a couple inaccuracies, but nothing too noticeable.

Nice work on the paint job

I'm also attempting a flanker that has been weathered and beaten to hell and back, I'm almost at the decal stage, may I ask you achieved the faded and worn effect on the numbers and red stars? Dan

When it comes to mr. surfacer or any of the mr. color paints, I usually add 60/40 thinner/paint ratio (or even 70/30), its really thick stuff, but sprays great once you get the right consistency. Use Mr. Color Thinner if you've got access

Stellar paint job! How'd you get the weathered and faded effect?

Really nice job on the paint and weathering, cockpit is super-detailed too!!!

I'm planning on doing an ultra-weathered version of an Su-27 based out Kilp Yavr (Blue 38 specifically) I've got a bunch of reference photos for this aircraft which show a lot of the paint worn away leaving either the yellow primer, bare metal, or some apparent "grey" color underneath the lightest blue-grey 35550. I've included some of the photos. With the exception of the front fuselage, vertical stabilizers, its apparent a great deal of paint has worn away (almost all of it from what I can tell) I know the flankers receive a light yellow base primer, but what throws me off is the "grey"

You could try linden hill, I know they make stencils for Su-27s, but I'm not sure about the MiG-29

Get an airbrush! Seriously, get one, they're addictive to use and you simply can't beat the perfectly smooth coats and feathered edges for camouflage, not to mention the myriad effects you can achieve with them with practice. I'll read about different techniques, but one of the best ways is to learn is to practice. Get an old model, or find a cheap kit and put together the basic fuselage, wings, stabilators, etc. and practice with making improvised camouflage shapes to learn control, thinning ratios, pressure settings. I prefer the double-action as it gives you the most control after you g